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Electric Water Pumps. Thoughts? Experience? Advice?
How 'bout dem electric water pumps!
Are they reliable? What goes in place of the missing water pump pulley... new belt? Would it be better to just get a nice polished, chromed, powder coated, painted, new, heavy duty, high volume, conventional water pump?
Are they reliable? What goes in place of the missing water pump pulley... new belt? Would it be better to just get a nice polished, chromed, powder coated, painted, new, heavy duty, high volume, conventional water pump?
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Yes, I would. I'm not sure you why you would want one? Your belt systems will really become a hassle.
Yes, I would. I'm not sure you why you would want one? Your belt systems will really become a hassle.
wait... first you say "Yes, I would"... Is that "Yes" about the conventional pump? And then "I'm not sure you why you would want one? Your belt systems will really become a hassle"... I guess that's about the electric pump... I'm not sure why I would want one either, that's why I'm posting my question... I'd like to get the experience from individuals who have or have tried or are shopping for electric water pumps. When you say my "belt systems will really become a hassle", what does that mean exactly... in which way will my belt system be a hassle. I don't want a hassle that's why I asked about what goes in place of the missing pulley, another bypass pulley? a new different sized belt? some bizarre pita modifications? what? John
I did one on my 96, but since it has the LT1 I didn't have any issues with belts since the pump is driven off of the cam. I have been happy with mine, used the car at a few teack events and haven't had any issues with it there or on the street. It does make coolant changes on the LT1 easier because it is easier to purge the air out of the system with the electric pump. That being said, I think it was about $200 to do the change on mine.
Iv had the meizere electric pump on my 94 for about 7 or 8 years now. Makes bleeding the coolant easy. Also if the car is shut off I can turn the pump on to help it cool down faster. Iv never tracked my car before, but the pump seems to do just fine sitting in traffic. I’m sure the stock pump would do the same though
Not reliable / not good for road racing.’maybe’ only good for drag racing
the stock pump has the nice linear output you need.
where these electric pumps flow like 35 gpm at all rpms, your stock one flows like 100 gpm at 6000 rpm - which is when you need the cooling the most.
ive seen so many stories about corroded wires, unsuspected issues, bad relays, etc. causing it to stop working on the street, with head damage as a result.
and being able to use a double roller chain is a moot point because i was able to use a clotes lt4 extreme duty timing chain (designed to work with stock lt1/4 waterpump) which handles high spring pressures fine.!
Not reliable / not good for road racing.’maybe’ only good for drag racing
the stock pump has the nice linear output you need.
where these electric pumps flow like 35 gpm at all rpms, your stock one flows like 100 gpm at 6000 rpm - which is when you need the cooling the most.
ive seen so many stories about corroded wires, unsuspected issues, bad relays, etc. causing it to stop working on the street, with head damage as a result.
and being able to use a double roller chain is a moot point because i was able to use a clotes lt4 extreme duty timing chain (designed to work with stock lt1/4 waterpump) which handles high spring pressures fine.!
Thanks! your arguments for the stock pump are excellent. I'll get a nice high flow one... chromed, or polished, or...
Not reliable / not good for road racing.’maybe’ only good for drag racing
the stock pump has the nice linear output you need.
where these electric pumps flow like 35 gpm at all rpms, your stock one flows like 100 gpm at 6000 rpm - which is when you need the cooling the most.
ive seen so many stories about corroded wires, unsuspected issues, bad relays, etc. causing it to stop working on the street, with head damage as a result.
and being able to use a double roller chain is a moot point because i was able to use a clotes lt4 extreme duty timing chain (designed to work with stock lt1/4 waterpump) which handles high spring pressures fine.!
that is pure BS . life of Mezier pump is 2,500 - 3,000 hours. that well over 100,000 k miles of street driving. almost all of the Euro cars now run electric pumps.....must be a reason
that is pure BS . life of Mezier pump is 2,500 - 3,000 hours. that well over 100,000 k miles of street driving. almost all of the Euro cars now run electric pumps.....must be a reason
yeah, they prob have ecm safeguards, limp home modes and higher quality oem relays/ parts then what the aftermarket provides for us.
oh yeah, and a warranty for if water pump (or the wiring) goes out / you toast your engine they pay for it.
i had a high beam fuse get corrosion around the legs and that caused it not to work.it was easily cleaned /fixed , but still could you imagine if that was an even more critical component like a water pump/ toast an engine and $1000’s in repairs. No thanks not worth it.
ive seen posts where it happened here (to c4 owners) during the 17 yrs ive been a member here.
i feel the ‘wiring’ or ‘relay’ has been the culprit vs the water pump itself....so if you must do it, keep that in mind !
almost all of the Euro cars now run electric pumps.....must be a reason
Those are the "NOW" Euro cars you are talking about vs the "THEN" US cars. They might have a reason they are doing it. Just "Monkey see, Monkey do" isn't a good reason. As mentioned, there might be monitoring or other safeguards. Their reasons might be different from ours. I'm not saying we shouldn't do it but just saying "He does it so it must be good" is a bad idea.
I guess the question we need to ask is "What am I trying to achieve?". Are you willing to wire up ECM controls to ensure the pump operates at the point that is most efficient? IF all you are doing is turning it on when the car runs, you are actually cooling it unnecessarily since it needs to build up heat to function in the range it is supposed to be at based on the build. They are not as powerful but they take less mechanical energy which leads to pollution, higher HP numbers, etc, etc.
yeah, they prob have ecm safeguards, limp home modes and higher quality oem relays/ parts then what the aftermarket provides for us.
oh yeah, and a warranty for if water pump (or the wiring) goes out / you toast your engine they pay for it.
i had a high beam fuse get corrosion around the legs and that caused it not to work.it was easily cleaned /fixed , but still could you imagine if that was an even more critical component like a water pump/ toast an engine and $1000’s in repairs. No thanks not worth it.
ive seen posts where it happened here (to c4 owners) during the 17 yrs ive been a member here.
i feel the ‘wiring’ or ‘relay’ has been the culprit vs the water pump itself....so if you must do it, keep that in mind !
leaving on a 5k mile trip out west next week. I changed out the Mezier as a PM issue, old pump looked almost exactly like the new one. no such issue as corrosion. i'll take the dyno proven 10 hp, thank you.
leaving on a 5k mile trip out west next week. I changed out the Mezier as a PM issue, old pump looked almost exactly like the new one. no such issue as corrosion. i'll take the dyno proven 10 hp, thank you.
10 HP is at WOT and depending upon the setup. It comes with the price of lesser cooling at points.
I've had a Mez electric pump in my LT1 for over 10 years now. Used to race it (but got too expensive). Still works just fine. If you are worried about a failure that will destroy your engine, don't you guys ever watch your temp gauge or do you just wait for an idiot light that might burn out? Worthy of note, there is a big difference between your L98? and an LT1.
An electric pump is great for cooling the motor down in the pits. One minute with the motor off, the fan and pump on will cool the motor 20+ degrees.
If you are OK with rigging up a timer for when you shut down like some diesel people it could be interesting Not sure what the street application would be be but I can see it on the track
Thanks! your arguments for the stock pump are excellent. I'll get a nice high flow one... chromed, or polished, or...
john
I haven't seen any high-flow ones out there. Have you found any? A new water pump is in my future too, and like I said...I talked myself out of going electric. Seems a great idea for a track car, between runs etc., but for my street car, I just kinda place my trust more in a mechanical one. Just my opinion, with no actual electric pump experience.
An electric pump is great for cooling the motor down in the pits. One minute with the motor off, the fan and pump on will cool the motor 20+ degrees.
The electric is constant flow (like the 35 gpm). Not sure of the current draw to equate to power drawn (unless at track you disconnect the alternator).
The mechanical water pump is a centrifugal. When doing no work (like at idle) draws virtually no power. But it also flows less at idle than the electric. The mechanical flows a LOT more at 6K engine so it is better to control detonation if talking a blower. But it also draws a LOT of power @ WOT !!! So if you do not need the high flow at high RPM the electric will save you some HP.
If worried about overheating at idle with A/C on a hot day doubt the electric will fix you up - the Vettes' problem is almost always airflow related !!!
However, you can always add the in-line electric to your mechanical and have the best of both worlds !!!
Last edited by BlowerWorks; Sep 11, 2018 at 12:22 PM.
I haven't seen any high-flow ones out there. Have you found any? A new water pump is in my future too, and like I said...I talked myself out of going electric. Seems a great idea for a track car, between runs etc., but for my street car, I just kinda place my trust more in a mechanical one. Just my opinion, with no actual electric pump experience.
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