C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Have brake pedal but won't stop - Help (1992LT1)

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Old 09-12-2018, 07:03 PM
  #21  
Purple92
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So - the easiest way to block off the wheel cylinder is to disconnect the brake hose from the input that feeds it, and either insert a plug or a coupling with a plug on the other end of it, or worse case - a short piece of brake line with the other end plugged.

But - based on what you're describing with essentially no front brakes - you have an ABS unit that has failed. So - the question now turns to "Are you willing to drive the car without ABS ???" If so - you need to basically bypass the ABS unit entirely. This isn't that hard to do - but you'll need the ability to cut, bend and flare brake lines. Depending on your skill level - that might just be a job you leave to a pro mechanic.(Please don't take that the wrong way - it's just that doing bubble flares and getting them right the first time - can be somewhat tricky ...)

If you really want ABS - you're going to have to either find a used ABS unit - or find someone who can re-build yours. There are a number of places that deal with used C4 parts - some are forum sponsors: You can always try to making some phone calls - (e.g. Taber Corvette Parts - Vette to Vette) - but It's not going to be cheap...


HANG IN THERE !!!
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Red Sleeper (09-12-2018)
Old 09-12-2018, 07:13 PM
  #22  
Purple92
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There is another C4 Brake Thread going on right now - below is a response from that thread from RWD Smoke. I suppose it can't hurt t give this a try (it's free) - but with the situating yu describe - I wouldn't get the car up to any kind of speed - let alone 40 MPH.... .


When I bought my 86 it had terrible brakes. The ABS cycled normally pulling out of the driveway and did work if I pushed hard enough on the pedal. I replaced the master cylinder, booster,calipers, hoses, pads and rotors. Still would not stop like it should. Finally out of frustration I pulled the ABS fuse and stood on the brake pedal with both feet at about 40mph. All four wheels locked and after the cloud of tire smoke dissipated I reinstalled the ABS fuse and drove home with great brakes. I've never had a problem since. Best guess, something was stuck in the ABS. This is not the recommended way to fix it but the point is the ABS can cause those symptoms.
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Red Sleeper (09-12-2018)
Old 09-12-2018, 08:45 PM
  #23  
Red Sleeper
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Originally Posted by Purple92
So - the easiest way to block off the wheel cylinder is to disconnect the brake hose from the input that feeds it, and either insert a plug or a coupling with a plug on the other end of it, or worse case - a short piece of brake line with the other end plugged.

But - based on what you're describing with essentially no front brakes - you have an ABS unit that has failed. So - the question now turns to "Are you willing to drive the car without ABS ???" If so - you need to basically bypass the ABS unit entirely. This isn't that hard to do - but you'll need the ability to cut, bend and flare brake lines. Depending on your skill level - that might just be a job you leave to a pro mechanic.(Please don't take that the wrong way - it's just that doing bubble flares and getting them right the first time - can be somewhat tricky ...)

If you really want ABS - you're going to have to either find a used ABS unit - or find someone who can re-build yours. There are a number of places that deal with used C4 parts - some are forum sponsors: You can always try to making some phone calls - (e.g. Taber Corvette Parts - Vette to Vette) - but It's not going to be cheap...


HANG IN THERE !!!
Well, I didn't give up. I was frustrated I guess. Today, I put the Vette back up on jack stands and drained the brake fluid. I removed the ABS/ASR module. I ordered two metric 10MM brake hose TEE's and a 12mm Tap. I plan on doing away with the ABS.I don't need it at all. If I could have ordered the car without it I probably would have. I drag race this car more than take joy rides, well used to anyway. Back to the brake hose TEE, for some reason they used a combination of 10mm and 12mm fittings. This is the only iffy part of the removal. I will have to drill and tap one or two holes on both 3-way's. I also don't want to see a brake fault lamp. Not sure if I'll happen or not.
Old 09-13-2018, 06:28 PM
  #24  
Purple92
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Originally Posted by Red Sleeper
Well, I didn't give up. I was frustrated I guess. Today, I put the Vette back up on jack stands and drained the brake fluid. I removed the ABS/ASR module. I ordered two metric 10MM brake hose TEE's and a 12mm Tap. I plan on doing away with the ABS.I don't need it at all. If I could have ordered the car without it I probably would have. I drag race this car more than take joy rides, well used to anyway. Back to the brake hose TEE, for some reason they used a combination of 10mm and 12mm fittings. This is the only iffy part of the removal. I will have to drill and tap one or two holes on both 3-way's. I also don't want to see a brake fault lamp. Not sure if I'll happen or not.
Believe me - if you turn your own wrenches - you're going to get frustrated from time to time - it's just part of the landscape.

After you excise the ABS unit - You're almost certainly going to have an ABS warning light. I would recommend pulling the fuse to keep any motors from attempting to run. You can pull the Driver Info panel and remove the ABS bulb if it bothers you (black electrical tape will work in the interim) .

I haven't checked - but do some on-line searching - you might be able to find a brake fitting adapter that will cleanly adapt 10mm to 12mm - a lot easier than drilling and tapping....

One step at a time - It'll get done....
Old 09-13-2018, 07:22 PM
  #25  
Red Sleeper
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Originally Posted by Purple92
Believe me - if you turn your own wrenches - you're going to get frustrated from time to time - it's just part of the landscape.

After you excise the ABS unit - You're almost certainly going to have an ABS warning light. I would recommend pulling the fuse to keep any motors from attempting to run. You can pull the Driver Info panel and remove the ABS bulb if it bothers you (black electrical tape will work in the interim) .

I haven't checked - but do some on-line searching - you might be able to find a brake fitting adapter that will cleanly adapt 10mm to 12mm - a lot easier than drilling and tapping....

One step at a time - It'll get done....
I've got it on the run now. Just knowing what was wrong is a relief. Having a warning light on WILL bug the heck out of me. Just thinking maybe after I get the brake lines hooked back up I be able to sit the ABS unit back in the compartment and plug it in. Maybe with it electrically connected it won't know it's empty. My parts should be in next week and then we'll know for sure.

Last edited by Red Sleeper; 09-15-2018 at 08:15 PM.
Old 09-15-2018, 08:27 PM
  #26  
Red Sleeper
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All done! Got brakes.

I had to drill and tap one 12mm hole on both TEE's. Bending the brake lines is no joke. Darn hard to get to. Worked out well though. Unfortunately I couldn't fit the ABS unit back in the compartment so the driver information panel is lit up with faults. I'll have to deal with it somehow.

EDIT:
I ended up removing the lamps that displayed ASR and ABS faults on the DIC. It was a very easy job to do this.

Last edited by Red Sleeper; 09-16-2018 at 07:58 PM.



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