Need a 2nd Opinion on a Starter Issue
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 175
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Need a 2nd Opinion on a Starter Issue
My car has acquired this goofy problem... and its getting worse.
Sometimes (more now than before) when I attempt to crank my car... it just goes... CLICK.... and I try again.... CLICK ???
I let my foot out on the clutch... and attempt to crank it without the clutch pushed in... and hold it... then, as I push the clutch in I hear the same CLICK... My point being... I believe that proves the Clutch Start Switch is working OK.
The other day I was trial fitting my new headers and noticed that the starter might have a problem. What is that Copper piece for on the starter... like a small tube? What purpose does it serve? Also, I noticed that where the main power cable attaches, along with several little ones... the "nuts" are tight, but the shaft that I am sliding these conn. on is loose?
How do I tight that up? Its like on the soloniod... The main wire is tight as can be... but after you tighten the nut, you can wiggle the shaft.
Is there anyway to tighten the shaft? Or do I have to buy a new starter?
I'm just guessing here... but am pretty sure thats where my start problem is coming from.
Yes?
Sometimes (more now than before) when I attempt to crank my car... it just goes... CLICK.... and I try again.... CLICK ???
I let my foot out on the clutch... and attempt to crank it without the clutch pushed in... and hold it... then, as I push the clutch in I hear the same CLICK... My point being... I believe that proves the Clutch Start Switch is working OK.
The other day I was trial fitting my new headers and noticed that the starter might have a problem. What is that Copper piece for on the starter... like a small tube? What purpose does it serve? Also, I noticed that where the main power cable attaches, along with several little ones... the "nuts" are tight, but the shaft that I am sliding these conn. on is loose?
How do I tight that up? Its like on the soloniod... The main wire is tight as can be... but after you tighten the nut, you can wiggle the shaft.
Is there anyway to tighten the shaft? Or do I have to buy a new starter?
I'm just guessing here... but am pretty sure thats where my start problem is coming from.
Yes?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
From: Jamison PA
Re: Need a 2nd Opinion on a Starter Issue (85Procharged383)
Sounds like either the solenoid is shot or the nut that holds the main stud has backed off. The copper tube is a normal part of the starter. There are also two screws that hold the cap on, the part where all the wires are attached. They may have backed off. Hope this helps.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 824
Likes: 2
From: Camden SC
Re: Need a 2nd Opinion on a Starter Issue (Tony.96LT4)
Believe you're in the right area.
If anything is loose around the battery connection to the solenoid, very likely significant voltage drop across the connection. On that circuit, voltage drop is very bad.
The battery connection there provides the big amperage necessary for cranking the motor, as in several hundred amps. What I suspect is happening, your pull in coil is making contact, (the click) however the voltage drop across the loose connection is not allowing big amperage necessary for starter windings to do their thing. Once again it's that guy Ohm and his stupid Ohms Law. Causes all kinds of trouble.
As stated above, you will likely have to remove the starter and I would just take it in to a shop specializing in automotive starters, generators, and alternators. Yellow pages, Automotive- electrical-alternators-starters, etc.
Haven't had a solenoid apart in years so not sure how this one is designed.
Seems your definitely tracking in the right direction.
Hope you get the car fixed.
dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks
[Modified by dlmeyers, 8:43 AM 10/26/2002]
If anything is loose around the battery connection to the solenoid, very likely significant voltage drop across the connection. On that circuit, voltage drop is very bad.
The battery connection there provides the big amperage necessary for cranking the motor, as in several hundred amps. What I suspect is happening, your pull in coil is making contact, (the click) however the voltage drop across the loose connection is not allowing big amperage necessary for starter windings to do their thing. Once again it's that guy Ohm and his stupid Ohms Law. Causes all kinds of trouble.
As stated above, you will likely have to remove the starter and I would just take it in to a shop specializing in automotive starters, generators, and alternators. Yellow pages, Automotive- electrical-alternators-starters, etc.
Haven't had a solenoid apart in years so not sure how this one is designed.
Seems your definitely tracking in the right direction.
Hope you get the car fixed.
dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks
[Modified by dlmeyers, 8:43 AM 10/26/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro OR
Re: Need a 2nd Opinion on a Starter Issue (85Procharged383)
Your 85 has the same starter and solenoid that GM used from the 60s. You have several options.
1. Get an aftermarket light weight starter and get more torque as a bonus.
2. Take off the starter and tighten the nut that holds the copper tube if its not too far gone or replace the solenoid with a new one.
I would just get a lightweight starter if you have a lot of miles on the old one. Your arms will thank you.
Any of the lightweight Small block Chevy starters will work. They go from 150 to over 200 depending upon brand and model. Some mfrs claim they will last 4 times as long as the stock one.
1. Get an aftermarket light weight starter and get more torque as a bonus.
2. Take off the starter and tighten the nut that holds the copper tube if its not too far gone or replace the solenoid with a new one.
I would just get a lightweight starter if you have a lot of miles on the old one. Your arms will thank you.
Any of the lightweight Small block Chevy starters will work. They go from 150 to over 200 depending upon brand and model. Some mfrs claim they will last 4 times as long as the stock one.
