aklim

Take the fuel filler door off and get to 3 lines Feed, return and evap. Crimp off the return line and see if it builds up pressure

ToniJ1960

Im taking the pump back out omorrow and checking the pulsator. Is it 3/8 submersible hose that its replaced with? I called AZ and they said its over $30 a foot

Kevova

1 foot of standard 3/8" fuel hose should be a few dollars. You only need a couple inches.

ToniJ1960

I think maybe its actually supposed to be 5/16? Did I order the wrong size? They tried to tell me this Armor Mark hose would work, that its jr7sae I looked that up and its for emissions Im pretty confused now, Ecen in this thread, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ulsator-2.html
Someone in there says 5/16 someone else says 3/8 what do I get

aklim

I would make damn sure it is submersible before install. I wouldn't want dissolved crud going into the injectors. Here is an insane idea. To get everything you need including a new tank gasket and hex bolts, why not buy it from Racetronix which gives you the entire kit so you don't need to run to Autozone and hope it is right sized and fuel submersible?

https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=pik-005 Your's for $30

ToniJ1960

I already have a new pump in it, and a new tank gasket was installed at that time. It should be reusable I would think? I called and asked them to change it to 5/16 it seemed to be the final conclusion in that thread. Just hoe its right still over $30 for a foot of hose Im going to make sure its the Gates submersible the price matches it though.

If Im taking that all apart to pinch off the return line Im looking there for my poblem esp since changing the pump affected the problem at least. Injectors and regulator last stop. I did see someone say a new pump worked fine for 4 weeks or then the pulsator gave out that fits for me. Think it was 3 or 4 weeks before it quit starting again.

aklim

It's a paper gasket. For my purposes, gaskets are like condoms. I probably wouldn't want to reuse it. Now if it is meant to be reused and is expensive, maybe. Not sure why you want to risk it when you can get so much more for $30 but your call. The SS bolts are nice to have if you have to go in again.

Without crimping off lines, it is hard to say it is the pulsator but I would have replace it with the pump. Supposedly it helps smoothen out the pulses of the pump but I'm not sure that the newer ones have that bad a pulse where it makes a difference. Can a brand new pump go south in a day? Sure. Again, I would test to see what it is.

ToniJ1960

If I had seen it a month ago is a good deal no doubt. I did already buy a new expensive gasket already and the scres arent taking a beating so far at least
I do still have the tester I was thinking about putting it on the output at the tank to see what I get but it sounds dangerous if I do ill be mindful.

aklim

Crimp return line off, turn the key on. See what the pressure does and if it holds. If it does, you have no leaks just before the regulator.

mixalive

ToniJ1960

So to update, the pulsator was actually very loose and now its replaced with the $30 a foot super hose. I can hear a little rat a tat once in a while I never had before but I can live it. The undrside of the sending unit that it sets on, is all a little rusty maybe a new sender unit eventually.

The car runs but I have to touch the pedal to get it to stat still, its a little better with the air filter box open. Im thinking its a vacuum leak somewhere if it could make it harder to start when its cold.

aklim

Is this the stock pump? I don't think mine has any rat a tat sound, Can you see what it is doing with a gauge on the schrader valve?

Get it to stable operating temp and see what the IAC counts are with a scanner. That might tell me about air leaks. Also, not sure if the TB is clean. Yes, it should be taken off, top plate, IAC and IAC housing to be thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled with new gaskets. Could also be dirty injectors. If they are stock, I'd dump them for the Bosch ones that FIC sells (reman for under $200 a set).

GregMartin

ToniJ1960

5/16 fit well.

And no its not the stock pump it was replaced with a Carter pump. The scanner I bought says it reads live data on obd1 but it has a 16 pin connector I may send it back.

I can drive the car its just hard to get it started unles its warmed up.

There is a lot of junk in the tb should get it cleaned maybe the butterfly sticking or the iac I dont know about these.My 78 pinto I know.

aklim

You will need the gaskets to do that. You'd have to take it off so you can do the coolant bypass mod so you have less of a mess next time.

ToniJ1960

Well the car could start if I used the gas pedal. But it wasnt right still and I was convincing myself I had a stuck injector and thats why this problem came and went away a few times. So my plan was to get the fuel filter replaced ( no way to do it where I am) and then put some injectopr cleaner in the tank.

After I had the filter replaced the car starts and runs fine now. At first I had to use the gas pedal a little then one time it would start that way at all.I thought it might be flooded and held the pedal to the floor when I turned the key and it started so fast it shocked m it hadnt done that for a while. Ever sine that it starts fine now.

I guess the fuel filter was clogged enough to keep it from building pressure. I didnt expect that since the pressure should be the same but I was discounting the volume needed vs time thing probably to build the pressure?

Now the battery is draining and killing the battery. Im making a new thread but for now I have the battery cable off itll be a pain for a while. I do know the passenger door opening and closing doesnt make the door light go on and off as the drivers one will. The hatch had to be opened and closed once after a passenger got out before the inside lights would go off again (kreeping switch?), the lights on both doors wont go out unless I tap on the drivers door trim area around the light, then both door lights go off lol.

But the big drain seems to be a headlight motor, this is going to take a bit of time I guess

aklim

Sounds like you are doing a lot of guessing and throwing parts at a problem. You can keep guessing and throwing parts at it and the problem will be solved sooner or later, sooner being luck and later being when you have replaced everything from "stem to stern". If you have a stuck injector, what exactly do you think has happened? It stuck close? If so, it should still start with the other 7. If it stuck open, you probably won't build up fuel pressure. If you really think you can dump injector cleaner in it and it will work, Autozone has a 2 for 1 on Regane or is it Rogaine? Oh well, one will grow hair and the other will be your mechanic in a can that is cheap and easy to fix your stuck injector. Actually, you probably will have better luck with the hair growth stuff.

Have you tested for fuel pressure at KOEO and if it can hold it? What about at WOT? Have you checked the spark for color? Are the wires leaking?

ToniJ1960

As I said after the fuel filter was replaced the car now starts and roars to life, divide and conquer to me seems fair enough an approach although it was unexpected. I needed the car running, the old Pinto would get tired after a while.

I was thinking it was just a leaking injetor I saw some videos that showed injectors being tested and a leaky injector was found and he stated that would cause hard starting. Also I was a little concerned because my oil level seemed a little high and I hadnt added any since it was changed. I smelled the dipstick and could barely detect any gas odor. I had someone else look at it and they said no gas in it. Didnt expect the new fuel filter they put in to make it start right again, but it seems to have.

Now if the dirty filter was the cause of the 30 psi prime up pressure, I may be less concerned over my suspicions of a leaking injector.

My thinking actually was after being in the tank 3 times I just didnt think the problem was there, everything else is on the other `end` to me

aklim

What is the prime pressure now? Will it hold that pressure for a long time or will it bleed off quickly? That too can affect start time. After that, you need to be sure that the pump can supply the pressure for WOT situations under load, aka on the road. A pump that can supply startup pressure might not be able to do it under load. If it bleeds off quickly it could also affect startup, roaring or not. If the fuel system can supply the needed pressure AND volume for all situations the car will encounter, maybe the injectors are dirty and it isn't atomizing the fuel like it should. In which case, you need a new regulator and reman set of injectors. FIC can supply both.

Maybe the pump cannot supply the needed volume AND pressure. Maybe it is supplying it but the pulsator, if still there, might be bleeding pressure away. Maybe the regulator is not holding the pressure. Maybe the system is good and the injectors are clogged, in which case, a reman set will be the more economical option. Maybe your spark is weak. Maybe there is some issue with the pump from an electrical standpoint and it isn't getting the power it needs to give the fuel. Maybe the plugs are dirty or wrong. Maybe the wires are "leaking".

ToniJ1960

With this car probably a few of your maybs are a likely.Its running and starting properly. I had a rental tool gauge that I had to put a 162.00 deposit on so I took it back.I dont care what it is at now, it did hold 30 for a good long time vso nless it rears its ugly head again Im onto whats draining my battery ( or the several whats ;( )