aj1988

If you decide to do it yourself, just remember there is a great amount of help here on the forum. I have put about a dozen engines together in the past and I am far from a mechanical genius. Most of the work is just common sense and paitence. Get a good manual on building small blocks and a decent set of tools along with a torque wrench.

My first engine rebuild was a 265 that I literally just undid bolts and threw parts into a big box. After I was done I found you are supposed to mark the 4 from main caps since they are actually bored on the block. Well, I learned how to match up the main caps and had a really good running 55 chevy. At that point I was 19 and in the Navy making $145 a month.

Red Tornado

I totally agree. With all that you've already invested, you will take a major pounding on reselling. This is may be one of the best ways to minimize the additional pain thru the medium term future.

But wow, please accept my empathy for what you've experienced, its a very hard pill to swallow. I wish you the best of luck whatever your decision is. :seeya :)

SPD DMN

Looks like the Power steering line that goes from the reservoir to the pump. If this is the case, it should not be a high pressure line and you could probably patch it pretty inexpensively.

Determining when enough is enough is always hard to do. I have been back and forth a couple of times when things go wrong (usually multiple things in a row). The only one that can say if it is worth it is you. There is no way to say whether or not problems will continue or cease with your car unfortunately. Good luck in the decision at least.

From the looks of the pictures, it appears that someone used a tool on the block between the cylinders. Generally, the surface is not shiny after you remove the gasket. At least none that I have taken apart.

VetBoy89

You need to get the shop manual specific to your model year from http://www.helminc.com. It’s about $115 but worth it’s weight in gold because that is about 1.5 hours labor you would pay to a shop, where with the manual you can do it yourself. I would suggest along with it you also get a Chilton’s, it and your Haynes have some nice pictures and spell things out a little easier for the beginning mechanic and make a nice collection of repair manuals. Haynes http://www.haynes.com/na2.html also has a vast assortment of general repair manuals, ie: Automotive Electrical, Emissions controls, Fuel Injection, etc. I would add those to your library as finances permit.

Stick around the Forum, this has got to be THE most valuable source of knowledge you will ever get, especially since it’s free. No one here will ever make you feel foolish no matter how simple or complex the question is. I had my car for about a year before I found the Forum, needless to say I wasted a lot of money paid to mechanics for simple repairs. I had never even change my own oil. :bb When I looked at the engine it just scared the heck out of me to even think about taking anything apart. My background is also in computer repair and I thought “what the heck, I can do this”. So with the help of the Forum folks I have done a ton of work that would have cost me a bundle, ie: replaced the pass. exhaust manifold, installed my complete exhaust system, changed the EGR valve, completely cleaned the throttle body, plenum and runners, I even changed my own fuel injectors, radiator (at a rest stop and the side of the freeway, don't ask) and shocks. Now that I look back I think, “that wasn’t so bad”. I couldn’t have done it without the Forum. Now it’s just a complete addiction and I find myself looking at the engine thinking “what can I do next”. I no way claim to be a mechanic but now when I read the manuals everything makes so much more sense, I actually understand what I’m reading now.

I would never, ever sell my Vet. It’s just become too much a part of my life, it’s really weird and a lot of people don’t understand the relationship a Vet owner has with their car. But most everyone on the Forum understands it and it’s a nice place to come and relate with other people. You get to know people, what area they are most knowledgeable in, their problems and their successes, it’s just like having an extended family.

I’m sorry to hear about your troubles, but try not to stress out anymore on it, it’s not healthy. Get it out of that shop and follow up on some of the other options others have already stated. Everything will work out in the end.

Good luck and don’t forget to save the wave! :cheers: :seeya

B84RADR

Update

WOW I sure appreciate everyone who has responded on here. I am going to buy the books necessary to try and do as much of this job that I can. I have family members that can help too, they are just long distance away.

WELL I called the shop today, AutoTek of Orem, Utah. I spoke with the manager and asked exactly what my bill is and how it breaks down at this point.

My total comes to $1,062.50. $350 of that is for the re-milling of the valve head block, the rest is labor. Is the price of the milling and the labor high?

Guess what? I also broke down and explained that I am not going to eat the cost of the break-in while it was under their control. I explained that legally I can pursue this in small claims court if need be. I asked him what he is going to help me with on fixing this and he said "Well maybe I can find a new lock for it." Well he's going to be doing a lot more than the lock, I'll tell you that. He said "I have a sign that negates me of any responsibility." I also asked if he had insurance. He said that he has insurance for things inside the shop. Since the car was parked outside, his insurance won't cover it even though it's on his property. I told him that's not my problem. He said he won't be held liable for the damages, so I told him that I will have my lawyer draft a copy of the law with what he will be covering. I'm getting a quote from an independant lot on fixing the damages, so I will be all set when it comes down to it. Shoot, I hate doing this crap. I deem myself to be very honest and forthright, which is why I have such a hard time seeing how a shop could just try to stick it to me after being such a loyal customer for so many years.

Anyway, I'm having the tow truck coming to get the car. I think I will wait until they accept the responsibility of the break-in before I pay a dime, and then hopefully have that deducted from the total amount of the parts and labor.

Does this sound reasonable? Would any of you do anything differently? I realize this is off the tech topic at this point. I'm just tired of being timid of problems like these and I really hate it when someone I trust tries to take advantage of me and my family.

Anyway, wish me luck! :boxing

VetBoy89

I'm not sure but I think you have to pay him before he has to release your car, you should check with your lawyer on that.

But, if it were me, I would take a friend along as a witness in case he promises something that he later tries to renege.

Make sure he gives you all your parts that he took off, including bolts, nuts, hoses, etc. etc.

Good luck! Keep us posted on the outcome. :cheers:

VQT88Vette

Looks like you might as well rebuild the engine since you'll going to pull the engien anyway:).

I had my car sit on my driveway for almost 2 years because I don't trust any shops around. First time in my life pulling the engine, rebuild it and drop it back in the car with minimal help, I had a forum memeber came over and took out the valve heads (didn't know how to take the valve heads out just a few months ago:rolleyes:) . The block had to be work by a machine shop there's no way around that. Check how much do they charge for the valve job ( 3 or 5 angle, valve guide...). I ask for worse case senerio cost and the shop told me $300-$400 max, they end up wanted somewhere in the $700-$800 range. I bought after market head and paid the cost for them to check on the condition of the heads. If they want too much money for the valve job, get a after market if you have the money. If you're willing to work on your car, spend a little time research on parts cost/ask the forum on what be best for your applications. The hardest parts for me was trying to understand how to measure the free play between the crank and the piston rods, and measuring the prestigage when installing the crank back in. The rest was just taking machine part out and put it back together.

This way you safe the money on labor only and that's a big chunk:). You still spend a lot of money for this rebuild.

dlmeyers

I like dizwiz24's advice.

There are basically two choices, pay someone else, or do it yourself, no matter what vehicle you own.

If you do it yourself, you will "eventually" save money.

A good bidirectional scanner (My choice is a used Snap on Scanner, can use it on all your US vehicles-$600Note: check automotive aucitons, have seen brand new ones, ie $2000 go for around $500-year 2000 cartridge), Helms manual, (new $90?), really good multimeter (pawn shop fluke with leads --$100), a few hand tools, jack stands, jack. Now all we need are a few good books. If you would like, I can provide you with the telephone number for Service Technology Group-they make the training manuals for GM service technicians. About $150 in books and you will be well read. They explain GM systems in detail.

If you have some tech savy, can read an electrical wiring diagram, maybe one good engine book, you're there. Paying someone $75 an hour to work on your car will always be an option, and the price is going up.

The repairs you've made are generally consistent for car 17 years old. You have done a lot but, things can still go bad, as with anything you buy. Besides, on a budget, there are tons of C4 parts available, used or new. I would "network" with a good shop that specializes in starters and alternators. Some people farm out A/C work also. About everything else, engine, power train, brakes, suspension, motor tuning, system electrical, is very doable. You just have to have the electrical supplement to completely understand C4's.

Another recommendation, just my opinion, keep you car stock, or as much as you are comfortable with, until you have a really good understanding of computer controlled inputs and outputs used by the ECM. The values for found in the manuals are generally applied to stock setups. After you have mastered air, spark, fuel and combustion dynamics, its off to the races. Of course, if you have a good handle on these concepts, disregard. Hot rodding is fun, but can lead to frustration if too many variables are changed at once, espeicially on computer controlled cars. Of course, if you have an uncle who's a world class tuner, never mind.

Corvettes are fun, represent good value, but can get very expensive if other people are doing the work.

Just some thoughts.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

oldace84

Take a deep breath.

Take a small mini vacation.

Look at it from different ways.

After all this and then some....get back to work on it...you've gone this far.....


if you donate it....donate it to yourself.....

Best therapy...


Just don't give up...

You can do it much cheaper...


Good luck on making a decision on what to do...

Just my humble opions....your young...give it some time....

:cool: :cool: :cool: :smash: :cool: :cool: