I'm thinking of stroking my L98 over the winter and was wondering what I would need to do. I would like to keep the TPI on but I don't know if that can be done. I won't be doing the work myself but I would like to know what to tell my mechanic I want done. I'm looking to put out as little money as I can ( who is'nt ) for now and wait untill I get some other things appearance wise untill I completly rebuid/replace the motor. Thanks, Mellio :cheers: :cheers:

 

I haven't stroked mine, but as far as the money goes I think most of the guys who have stroked them spent over $6k.

 

A 383 stroke kit from http://www.speedomotive.com is @$450 then you have the cost of machining, dis and re-assembly. Have a valve job done at the least if stroking is all you want to do. You can rebuild the top side later.

:seeya

 

To do a good stroker motor, using you your block, you will spend about $6000.00 if you use quality parts and have the machine work done at a class shop.

The $450.00+ kits that you see advertized are for early blocks and use a 400 crank that is cast not forged.

If you use your '87 block you will need a crank with the one piece rear seal, you will also need good 6 inch rods and stroker pistons. Go with forged rods, pistons and crank, they will last much longer. Also consider having the block converted to a splayed 4 bolt main block.

Plan out your motor before you start and get prices on all the parts, ask the machine shop if you can provide the parts, that will save you a lot of money.

Also consider using the LT-4 Hot Cam Kit, it will fit your block and you will get a new cam, 1.6 rockers and new light weight springs and retainers for under $475.00.

The TPI will work just find, and you will have a torque monster at the low end.

 

The TPI will work on a 383, but it will choke it to death, so dont expect a big hp increase. It will bump the torque up at low rpm though.

you will really spend 4-6k to do this right, with an all forged bottom if you want it to last a long time

 

If you want to do it on a budget contact SCAT crankshafts (www.scatcrankshafts.com) and get their 383 kit. Series 9000 crank (9-350-3750-6000-L) and 6" rods is the best combo. Yes its cast and not forged, but big deal, your not going to put out the power to break the crank. You also dont need to go 4 bolt the block.

I spent under $3k for my shortblock assembly, ~$1300 in maching work, which included assembly up to heads, 3 angle valve job on heads, all the machining on the block, balancing the whole assembly, painting the block/intake with custom paint, replacing all the little things. I forget what the parts cost was, but I think around $1500 or so, was a SCAT crank (From forum member). PAW H-Beam rods (not necesary, normal I beams will do just fine), and JE/SRP pistons for the setup. BTW all the work was done at the best shop in town, all the big boy racers get their machine work done there, a friend who has done 100's of race motors has never had a problem with anything they did, so its not some cheap hole in the wall shop...

I will be finding out (hopefully before years end) what a 383 will do with stock intake. I have the LPE 211/219 cam, which I found to have best specs, and is built for a 383 with LTR's. I do have mild head porting done, but it was $125 at local racers house, I do have flow #'s, helped alot over stock..

Goodluck on your decisions, and have fun with what you build!
Matt

 

Its nice to build an all forged motor if you have the money, but unless you are going to rev that baby you don't need a bullet proof bottom end. ;)

If you are going to put a LTR tpi manifold on it i would think a cheaper quality cast setup would be fine :yesnod: Trouble is if you are like me, once you get used to it you will want MORE and eventually it may have been cheaper to start with that forged setup.

My advice would be to think long and hard about what you really want from your car and buy the parts to get you there, even if that means saving up until next year :smash:

all the best :cheers:

 

Perspective is understanding that a person may not want to build a motor that cost more than their whole car,, sometimes by a factor of 2! It’s easy to be caught up in the moment when reading the mods some guys have done to their cars. Some have modded their cars to the max and claim they run like dooo dooo because they are not tuned right or speed parts are mis matched. Therefore, money does not equal speed always, but a good plan can certainly keep you on track.

Lots of cars on the CF do 12's and a thread was just developed that listed such cars, and you may want to check their sig's to see what mods they did to improve on their rides.

Machining always cost $$$$ unless you can do it yourself which few can. Parts can be had new, used and refurbished.

Decide what you want from a motor. For some its HP or Torque and others it ET's. A streetable vette can reach upper 12's, which is fast in anyone’s book, for under $3000 without boring, stroking etc.

.02 cents
:crazy:


[Modified by ld85, 5:48 PM 10/29/2002]

 

Thanks to everyone for your advice. This forum is simply amazing with how quickly one can get good responses. Thanks again :cheers:

 

the Speed-o-motive stuff is very nice; what I wanted was a better response, so I went with the 1-pc seal shortblock, and kept the intake and heads stock (late 86 TPI). What I found was about 10% more torque, at about a 500 rpm lower peak, according to a rear wheel dyno- it's an automatic, and is rarely if ever revved over 4000 rpm, so the forged stuff is wasted on me

I consider it just a nice stock rebuild- and the additional compression actually gives me a little bit better gas mileage; a very pleasant daily driver.