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Driving today I got the code 32, which I believe is for the EGR valve not opening. No other driveability issues though. With it being cold out, I'm pretty sure that one can wait until spring to fix. Any reason I should worry about it sooner?
[QUOTE=Bfenty;1598441636]Driving today I got the code 32, which I believe is for the EGR valve not opening. No other driveability issues though. With it being cold out, I'm pretty sure that one can wait until spring to fix. Any reason I should worry about it sooner?
my 90 gives that code from time to time...I replaced the egr and from time to time it still gives me that code...The car does not have any running issues and USUALLY once I stop the car restart it the service engine soon light goes and and does not come back on. Since the engine runs just fine...I just leave it alone...
My only issue is that you won't know when a real MIL comes on and might assume it is the EGR. I'd get someone to rewrite the chip so it blanks out the EGR altogether.
One thing I really like about my BlueDriver OBDII interface is the ability to read and clear codes from my iPhone. I had an occasional CEL for the evaporation canister that has since been fixed. I ignored the fix for several months and just wiped the code quickly whenever it popped up.
Of course that's on a '96. Is there some way to rig a remote reset for your '85?
My only issue is that you won't know when a real MIL comes on and might assume it is the EGR. I'd get someone to rewrite the chip so it blanks out the EGR altogether.
yup. I always check my CEL codes when it pops for this reason, but that's a good idea to just blank it out entirely since I really don't care unless it will cause harm to my car or driveability issues.
Originally Posted by Renfield
One thing I really like about my BlueDriver OBDII interface is the ability to read and clear codes from my iPhone. I had an occasional CEL for the evaporation canister that has since been fixed. I ignored the fix for several months and just wiped the code quickly whenever it popped up.
Of course that's on a '96. Is there some way to rig a remote reset for your '85?
It's OBDI so nothing like that is possible. Luckily I can use a paperclip to clear codes on this car so it's not terribly difficult. I love the bluetooth readers for newer cars though-have them in all of my vehicles.
Originally Posted by 65Z01
You could install a 160deg T-stat as the ECM will not call for EGR until >170s and steady driving.
You could also run a diode link between the EGR command line to the sensor on the exhaust tube.
No thanks on the 160 tstat. At least with a stock engine, it runs noticeably worse with that low of a stat. I actually run the stock 195 and it runs the best of anything.
Excuse my ignorance, but what would the diode do for me?
Just be careful, EGR reduced combustion chamber temperature for reduced NOx emissions. No EGR will raise combustion temps and could even shorten engine life under hard driving conditions. Had a T/A 400 melt a piston because of an EGR block off. Just be careful.
Just be careful, EGR reduced combustion chamber temperature for reduced NOx emissions. No EGR will raise combustion temps and could even shorten engine life under hard driving conditions. Had a T/A 400 melt a piston because of an EGR block off. Just be careful.
luckily the light went off and hasn't come back. I think it was probably a fluke.
Will it raise engine temps overall or just combustion chamber? I ask because my cooling system is rock solid and overheating isn't an issue for me, but if it were not related to coolant temp then that is different.
I've got another thread about vacuum lines, I might go ahead and replace the EGR valve in addition to vacuum lines at some point in the near future. I assume the valve is pretty cheap and it's not that hard to do.
When the ECM calls for EGR the exhaust tube quickly heats up causing the sw on the tube to close, i.e. ground out.
The ECM calls for EGR by grounding one side of the sol., the diode feeds back that signal via the tube sw so the ECM sees the EGR request satisfied, w/o EGR actually being engaged. BTW, to use the diode disconnect the electrical cable from the EGR vac. controller to disable EGR from actually turning on.
I've run a 160deg T-stat in each of my 35th Anni Vettes since 2000 and never had any issues with the ECM staying in open loop. What I did find was ~1mph increase in trap speed over the stock T-stat, equals ~10chp increase.
When the ECM calls for EGR the exhaust tube quickly heats up causing the sw on the tube to close, i.e. ground out.
The ECM calls for EGR by grounding one side of the sol., the diode feeds back that signal via the tube sw so the ECM sees the EGR request satisfied, w/o EGR actually being engaged. BTW, to use the diode disconnect the electrical cable from the EGR vac. controller to disable EGR from actually turning on.
I've run a 160deg T-stat in each of my 35th Anni Vettes since 2000 and never had any issues with the ECM staying in open loop. What I did find was ~1mph increase in trap speed over the stock T-stat, equals ~10chp increase.
Which is great for the track but on the road, it may result in higher fuel consumption
luckily the light went off and hasn't come back. I think it was probably a fluke.
Will it raise engine temps overall or just combustion chamber? I ask because my cooling system is rock solid and overheating isn't an issue for me, but if it were not related to coolant temp then that is different.
I've got another thread about vacuum lines, I might go ahead and replace the EGR valve in addition to vacuum lines at some point in the near future. I assume the valve is pretty cheap and it's not that hard to do.
IDK how much the EGR contributed to the process. I had it disabled since I put in the Superram till now when I have a 383. Always beat it but no overheating YMMV
Will it raise engine temps overall or just combustion chamber? I ask because my cooling system is rock solid and overheating isn't an issue for me, but if it were not related to coolant temp then that is different.
I've got another thread about vacuum lines, I might go ahead and replace the EGR valve in addition to vacuum lines at some point in the near future. I assume the valve is pretty cheap and it's not that hard to do.
It raises the combustion chamber temp not so much the cooling system. Because your cooling system is rock solid you probably will not have a problem but poor fuel quality and other factors could lead to pre-ignition and internal damage. Important note** - **This is worst case scenario, I hate to sound like chicken little but I did have it happen to me. Most likely you will not have a problem but you need to be informed.
IDK how much the EGR contributed to the process. I had it disabled since I put in the Superram till now when I have a 383. Always beat it but no overheating YMMV
Once you change the fuel or combustion parts like Intake, Pistons, cam and other internals it changes the dynamics of the combustion process. The OE setup is designed to run as efficiently (read lean) as possible and without EGR this can lead to detonation. If the engine has been modded it allows for full power output, NOx be damned. Rock On and pedal down.
luckily the light went off and hasn't come back. I think it was probably a fluke.
Will it raise engine temps overall or just combustion chamber? I ask because my cooling system is rock solid and overheating isn't an issue for me, but if it were not related to coolant temp then that is different.
I've got another thread about vacuum lines, I might go ahead and replace the EGR valve in addition to vacuum lines at some point in the near future. I assume the valve is pretty cheap and it's not that hard to do.
I got the code 32 as soon as I would get up to about 50 mph. For me my vacuum line had become disconnected and that is all that was wrong with it.
Once you change the fuel or combustion parts like Intake, Pistons, cam and other internals it changes the dynamics of the combustion process. The OE setup is designed to run as efficiently (read lean) as possible and without EGR this can lead to detonation. If the engine has been modded it allows for full power output, NOx be damned. Rock On and pedal down.
Good point. Maybe if they can reburn his chip they can enrich the mixture and remove the EGR?
Yes. Fix it! Your combustion chambers will run cooler, your Nox emissions will be lower, O2 sensor readings will be more relevant, knocking/preignition will be guarded against and if you live in a smog test area you at least will not fail for check engine light or Nox. Anything else?