So, my LT4 has a 8PSI intercooled kit on it and a Corsa Cat-Back.

My thoughts are to:
Lloyd Elliot Cam that he is recommending for my set up (After Discussion of goals and expectations)
Long Tube Headers (Seems the American Racing brand is preferred around here)
The TorqHead 24X ignition system and computer - this is so a local shop that deals in LS can then help me with a real tune and I will never have to worry about the OPTI
Replace the FMU and go to a proper sized Pump and Injectors
Install a Wideband 02 Sensor (Current set up was done with a Fuel Pressure Gage)

My goal here would to be able to be safely at 450rwhp without adding pounds of boost. Currently went 386 to the wheels with an RPM cut at 5800 RPMs. Dyno sows HP rolling off right around 5700 or so.

I would figure it would get towed to get tuned

Thoughts?

 

I'm not a boost expert but everything you listed sounds reasonable. Are you running a stock bottom end? That is really the only thing I would be nervous about but at 8psi it is probably fine. That being said you still will probably lose boost after the cam and heads. More flow, you know?

 

I am aware of the potential of boost loss. May have to do a pulley change. No fear of the bottom end. The car jas just over 50k miles on it, been running 8psi for over 10 years. It doesn't go under full boost all the time. I don't even drag race the car.

There is no reason the factory bottom end can't stand up to a safely tuned 8psi. What I may have to do is change the charge cooling method or add a meth kit to get back to 8psi.

The car may get a 1000 miles a year on it, so even if the combo blows the bottom end in 15k miles, that will be 10-15 years. My concern would be the blocks survival. As long as it holds together I would have an excuse to go 383. At which point I am sure I would need a different blower unit to maintain 8psi.

Keep in mind, new Cam will get another 500 or so rpm. That means more HP. If I don't like the low end, I will just go to a 4.10 outback

 

It's not even the boost, 450 rwhp on a stock bottom is a lot of power. That's at the point where you would want to start tweaking clearance.

But, since you don't plan on dragging it, I'd wager you'll have no problems. I also didn't realize you had that little miles on it lol. It should be fun.

 

More power less boost is a win. The # on the gauge doesnt always mean youre making more power.

 

I'm sitting at 460hp/450tq on a stock bottom end. Not safe, but it sure is fun.

pump gas, 10.5:1, 16psi, super conservative tune up.

 

I have a stock bottom end LT1 with Advanced Induction heads and a Comp 220/230 cam. I decked the block for .038" quench (about 10.9:1 compression) and it makes 465 rwhp and 480 rwtq with shorty 1 5/8" headers. I did have the 232/236 cam that came with the heads and it made 543 rwtq but it would surge on the freeway if you got much below 70 mph in 6th gear (below 1700 rpm). That much torque sure was fun though.

 

16PSI! Wow... and people on here get all crazy about 10 or 12!

I don't hammer this car all the time, I just like it is there when I want to hammer it. Also, the time in the garage tinkering, cleaning, and what not is "fun" time for me.

I see no reason to get over 8PSI on my set up, and there is power to be made elsewhere. Each Blower/Turbo has a efficiency range to operate in and it is all about the Heads/Cam/Headers/Blower Combo. Adding more PSI doesn't mean you make more power if you can't get the fuel and keep the air cool. That is why I am looking at a combination to better utilize what I have safely.

 

Hi
8 psi on stock bottom end is not a problem, did 8 psi a few years then 10 psi on the stock bottom end.
I replaced the engine at 170,000 miles, went to a forged 383 engine.

I recommend talking to blowerworks they can do a custom tune and steer you in the right direction.
Water/ methanol injection works great, got rid of my intercooler running better than ever.
Am still using a FMU though.

 

 

I am more worried about the fuel system than the Intercooler at this point. Going to a new charge cooling method would probably be next on the list if I didn't hit my goals.

As far as the tune goes, I figured the TorqHead can come with a base LT1 tune. This should get me to be able to get the car up on a trailer to take it to a shop and get a true custom tune with the car on a dyno. I figure that will be better than any mail order tune since the car will not only have the blower, but headers/Cam/Injectors as well.

 

No data on the cam?
With a blower the engine get help breathing in, but no help out.
Compared to an N/A cam you want more exhaust and more lobe separation to avoid blowing too much fresh gas out the tailpipe.

Better exhaust is good. Same resoning as above.

I have no knowledge about this system other than what I googled just now. Separate coils are better but there are other options.
A real cuatom tune is the correct way to go.

Agree!!!

Without a WB you are blind, but I think that it should be connected to the computer. You will not be able to look at the gauge.

 

He sent me the data on the Cam as well as the correct springs/push rods to use on an LT4. Yes, more Lobe separation and longer duration/lift on exhaust over the stoker, minimal difference on intake side. Can't remember the specs off the top of my head, but in his words it was similar to a CC305 tweaked for a blower.

Tuners obviously use a wide band when they have it on a Dyno. The shop I plan on using has them hanging by their dyno. I would certainly prefer to have it over a fuel pressure gage, but I have no problem seeing Red/Yellow/Green LEDs in my peripheral vision.

 

I used to add gauges.Fuel pressure, WBO2, Boost, Trans temp, Trans pressure but I have removed all extra gauges now.
It is impossible to both focus on driving and all gauges.
In my current engine/transmission control system it is possible to create a lot of different rules and use a single warning light when something is wrong.
Then you check error code or data logs to figure out what the problem was.
In my current warning system I monitor oil pressure for both engine and transmission, Fuel pressure, WBO2, EGT, Coolant temp and probably more.

 

I agree to a point, having the gages is good, having to stare at them while driving is bad. This is why shift lights are installed. I bet you wouldn't want to not have a tach in your car, but you also don't want to stare it down the whole time you drive. The gages allow for quick test instead of having to hook something else up. LED indicators are a good thing to have as you mentioned. I plan on eventually having a shift light, and a WBO2 with LED indicators so it doesn't have to be stared at. Since I have an Electronic FP gage, I am going to leave it. Sure beats having to screw one on to the fuel rail to check pressure. Plus allows you to see it under boost.

When I had a Diesel truck, I had a Pyro/Boost/Trans combo of gages. I didn't stare at them, but it was nice to know where things were from time to time when I was pulling my boat. Hills in Tennessee can really heat a trans up and the pyro gage was a good indicator of the engine cooling down. Never felt the need to stare them down while driving, but being able to glance at them and see everything was normal was worth it.