Cooling system.
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Cruising
Joined: Dec 2018
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Cooling system.
I have decided to go with a 50/50 mix on coolant as I am changing the radiator. Can anyone tell me how much coolant the entire system takes on my 95 c4? I am draining the entire block and cooling system and is there a best way to prime the system as there is no radiator cap. Just the radiator resivore and over flow plastic tank. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Best way is to pre-mix coolant & water. I start by blending down a gallon of antifreeze to make two of mix.
With no radiator cap your system has a pressurized reservoir to which coolant is added.
This vid. may be helpful: https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1.../flush_coolant
With no radiator cap your system has a pressurized reservoir to which coolant is added.
This vid. may be helpful: https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1.../flush_coolant
Last edited by 65Z01; Jan 9, 2019 at 01:28 AM.
Burning Brakes
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Central Alabama
This vid. may be helpful: https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1.../flush_coolant
At no time is a C4 corvette seen. There is a C5, along with a Buick, Honda Civic (maybe), and a Camaro. Misses all the details you need like knock sensors and purge valve locations,
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Park City Utah
Remove that pressure cap, fill the system until it's full to the neck of the black tank (and stay's full)
Open the two bleeder screws, one at a time until you get coolant out of them; then close 'em up.
Top the black surge tank to the neck again, then fill the white/translucent overflow than that's under the right headlight to the proper, "cold" level. Install both caps....you're done.
This makes the "50/50" part easy;
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jan 9, 2019 at 08:21 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
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From: Sacramento California
For $10, I suggest you replace the thermostat also.
When your radiator work is done and the block drains are buttoned up, add coolant to the system through the black surge tank -- it should take about 3 gallons off the bat. Run the engine until the thermostat opens -- the level will drop and coolant is seen swirling and flowing. Top off the black surge tank until it takes no more, install the cap and shut off the engine. Fill the white overflow to slightly above the cold mark. After a few heat cycles, check the white overflow and add coolant as needed.
The LT1 and LT4 cooling systems are self-purging. Since the black surge tank is the highest point in the system, that is where any air will collect. When the engine cools down, coolant is pulled from the white overflow, as needed. So the system automatically keeps itself full as long as there is coolant in the white overflow. You should not need to remove the radiator cap again (from the black surge tank) until the next service.
When your radiator work is done and the block drains are buttoned up, add coolant to the system through the black surge tank -- it should take about 3 gallons off the bat. Run the engine until the thermostat opens -- the level will drop and coolant is seen swirling and flowing. Top off the black surge tank until it takes no more, install the cap and shut off the engine. Fill the white overflow to slightly above the cold mark. After a few heat cycles, check the white overflow and add coolant as needed.
The LT1 and LT4 cooling systems are self-purging. Since the black surge tank is the highest point in the system, that is where any air will collect. When the engine cools down, coolant is pulled from the white overflow, as needed. So the system automatically keeps itself full as long as there is coolant in the white overflow. You should not need to remove the radiator cap again (from the black surge tank) until the next service.
Last edited by DGXR; Jan 10, 2019 at 01:14 PM.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Don't forget to take out the knock sensors and do some searching on this site before you start. There are TONS of posts about this and several good YouTube videos as well. I recently did mine and also replaced the thermostat and hoses.
I filled the radiator as much as I could with the car off and then turned the car on. Once the thermostat opened, I filled until it started bubbling back out of the upper reservoir. I put the cap on, shut the car off and let the air out of the bleeder screw. I had to let air out of the bleeder screw a few more times over the the next couple days and add a little more coolant before my "Low Coolant" light would go out.
I filled the radiator as much as I could with the car off and then turned the car on. Once the thermostat opened, I filled until it started bubbling back out of the upper reservoir. I put the cap on, shut the car off and let the air out of the bleeder screw. I had to let air out of the bleeder screw a few more times over the the next couple days and add a little more coolant before my "Low Coolant" light would go out.
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From: Park City Utah
I filled the radiator as much as I could with the car off and then turned the car on. Once the thermostat opened, I filled until it started bubbling back out of the upper reservoir. I put the cap on, shut the car off and let the air out of the bleeder screw. I had to let air out of the bleeder screw a few more times over the the next couple days and add a little more coolant before my "Low Coolant" light would go out.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Lol,I actually started out that way, but couldn't get it to fill all the way. I had to try it other ways. Nothing about my crank seal replacement, oil pan replacement and WP replacement went the way I read that it should. Turned out well in the end though.