When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Almost 190,000 on mine, second clutch, changed the oil in the tranny at 100K, no complaints, great trans. I've never heard about full throttle 6th gear problems. There is really no point anyway, when you need a little acceleration at highway speed use 5th or 4th.
In my 1995 coupe, 2,000 RPM in 6th gear equals 80 MPH. Actually I get better acceleration in 6th with just a bit of throttle, going wide open does not give more acceleration in that scenario.
Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
At 2.68:1, 1st gear in a ZF6 is actually relatively tall compared to the 1st-gear ratio in most production cars' manual transmissions.
I'm sure you are right. First gear *feels* super short... I can very nearly dump the clutch in 1st and it will not stall.
Originally Posted by Purple92
While it's fairly hard to get to - you might want to take a quick peek at the color of the fluid in the clutch slave cylinder. It's brake fluid - so it should be relatively clear - If it's black - it tells you the owner does not go completely nuts with fluid changing, and that if you buy the car - a clutch fluid change should be on your spring / summer "to do" list.
How exactly do we check the color of the fluid in the slave cylinder? It's made of metal.
Yeah my new fluid looks darker in only 8 months and I only drive it 2-3 days per week at most.
Last time I refreshed the master fluid, I forgot to wipe the sediment from the bottom of the cylinder and it got dirty right away. Oops
Yeah my new fluid looks darker in only 8 months and I only drive it 2-3 days per week at most.
Last time I refreshed the master fluid, I forgot to wipe the sediment from the bottom of the cylinder and it got dirty right away. Oops
You should change it when it gets darker. Dark brake fluid means 2 things... dirt and possible moisture in the fluid. Its a 10 minute job with a turkey baster and will improve pedal feel, master & slave life and clutch life overall.... no brainier really
The clutch fluid in these cars gets dirty really quickly. I believe it’s a combination of the rubber liner in the SS hose deteriorating and seal wear, unlike brakes the clutch cylinder seals see a full stroke on each use. Good luck keeping it clean. Turkey baster swaps the fluid in the res, does nothing for the fluid in the line and cylinders.
I'm sure you are right. First gear *feels* super short... I can very nearly dump the clutch in 1st and it will not stall.
You must have of dem stock LT1s and flywheels I've heard about. In all seriousness, I can't quite do that with my lopey idle and 13lb flywheel, but even my engine is pretty hard to stall out.
The clutch fluid in these cars gets dirty really quickly. I believe it’s a combination of the rubber liner in the SS hose deteriorating and seal wear, unlike brakes the clutch cylinder seals see a full stroke on each use. Good luck keeping it clean. Turkey baster swaps the fluid in the res, does nothing for the fluid in the line and cylinders.
I vacuum bleed roughly every other year.
If you do it only once, yes, but if you do it regularly, then you are effectively changing all the fluid out. When I first get a car, Ill swap the res fluid when I see the fluid get even remotely dark... about every 4 weeks with the way I use my car... Then the intervals are farther and farther apart. Same with the brake fluid in the brake M/C...My brake and clutch fluid are always golden and clear...