C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1996 ZF6 clutch fluid reservoir low

 
Old 04-14-2019, 06:45 PM
  #61  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

Thanks man! I removed the master today. Lots of people say they had trouble removing the clip from the clutch pedal. But it came out quick for me. Beginner's luck I guess lol. I'll put everything back together tomorrow.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:29 PM
  #62  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

Installed the new master and slave today. Clutch has no resistance, at all. I put the rod on the clutch pedal, and the clip.

If I loosen the bleed screw, fluid drips out.

Any ideas?

Here's what the back of my old master looked like

Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 04-15-2019 at 05:30 PM.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:07 PM
  #63  
9T3VETTE
CF Senior Member
 
9T3VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Motor City
Posts: 1,157
Liked 77 Times in 61 Posts
Default

How did you fill the system? Usually best to work from the bottom up...bench bleed the slave, then connect hydraulic line, then replace master. This way ensures little air is Introduced.
It may take 50 or so pedal strokes to start feeling resistance. Pump the pedal varying depth of stroke, quickness and hold time. As air is displaced the pedal will get more firm.
9T3VETTE is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:42 PM
  #64  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

At first, I bench bled it. But due to my lack of experience on this, the fluid came out. In order for me to get a good angle(to tighten) on the hydraulic line, I had to push the slave against the fork. Thus shooting the fluid out. I filled it from up top. I may have to ask someone that knows how to bleed a system come help me.

I tried reverse bleed again. But everytime I do that, it's incredibly hard to pump fluid into the slave. Which results in the line popping off the bleed screw. Yes, I did loosen the bleed screw as well.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 08:13 PM
  #65  
confab
CF Senior Member
 
confab's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
Posts: 3,360
Liked 310 Times in 275 Posts
Default

I do this a lot.. I have this, and a bunch of adapters for it.

Amazon Amazon

It is one of those things you use over and over and over and, before you know it, you realize how low the price actually was because of all the time it saved you.

Before that, I tried other bleeding tools, schemes, methods, with varying results.

The problem with the clutch system is the master is so small it almost syringe like, and it doesn't displace a lot of fluid when you stroke it. And the system is so small, even little bitty "soda fizz" looking bubbles, almost too small to see, can cause major problems.

If you are doing this in your garage by hand, I would:

1) Attach a tube to the bleeder and run it up and over into a container.

2) Get someone to push it down, bleed, release.. Over and over till you get the air out of it. You can tap it lightly at the slave and line with something to help shake the air loose if you like.

3) I would not over work the pedal during this process, because what ends up happening is the formation of those little soda fizz bubbles and they're almost impossible to get out.

4) If it is close? A lot of times you can drive it and it will work the rest of the air out relatively quickly.. Even if you have to pump the clutch once or twice on a stop or start, a short drive usually shows marked improvement.

5) Manual bleeding a clutch takes time.. I have bled them for an hour or two, sometimes.. Just stick with it and you'll get it eventually.



Last edited by confab; 04-15-2019 at 08:32 PM.
confab is online now  
Old 04-15-2019, 11:18 PM
  #66  
mtwoolford
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: folsom california
Posts: 3,220
Liked 123 Times in 118 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post

I tried reverse bleed again. But everytime I do that, it's incredibly hard to pump fluid into the slave. Which results in the line popping off the bleed screw. Yes, I did loosen the bleed screw as well.
Now that shouldn't be. Reverse bleed it, but first undo the hydraulic line at the clutch master cylinder; fluid should squirt right out of the line when you pump fluid into the slave. If it doesn't, the clutch hose has collapsed internally, or has an internal blockage; which by the look of all the photos and gunk is a possibility. If your clutch hose is original, which it probably is, the factory places a small restriction/ orifice inside the hose to actually slow down the engagement of the clutch. That could be blocked. At this point, especially since you can't fill the slave from the bottom without the line popping off the bleed screw, I'd suspect that some things going on with the hose.

Last edited by mtwoolford; 04-15-2019 at 11:20 PM.
mtwoolford is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 11:44 PM
  #67  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

I've been wondering the same. If I have to replace the line, oh well. I'll check that tomorrow.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-16-2019, 11:37 AM
  #68  
9T3VETTE
CF Senior Member
 
9T3VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Motor City
Posts: 1,157
Liked 77 Times in 61 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mtwoolford View Post
Now that shouldn't be. Reverse bleed it, but first undo the hydraulic line at the clutch master cylinder; fluid should squirt right out of the line when you pump fluid into the slave. If it doesn't, the clutch hose has collapsed internally, or has an internal blockage; which by the look of all the photos and gunk is a possibility. If your clutch hose is original, which it probably is, the factory places a small restriction/ orifice inside the hose to actually slow down the engagement of the clutch. That could be blocked. At this point, especially since you can't fill the slave from the bottom without the line popping off the bleed screw, I'd suspect that some things going on with the hose.
This is a great point...

I had my clutch line rebuilt by a local hydraulic hose shop for cheaper than buying aftermarket one. They made it out of flexible metal and put a nice rubber line around it which is resistant to heat and abrasion. Something to look at.
9T3VETTE is offline  
Old 04-16-2019, 12:00 PM
  #69  
DGXR
CF Senior Member
 
DGXR's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Sacramento California
Posts: 2,023
Liked 172 Times in 160 Posts
Default

The way I did it was basically "stack" the fluid inside the system:
-- Fill the slave cylinder completely full of fluid and bolt it to the bell housing, keeping it as full as possible.
-- Attach the line to the slave cylinder. It may be necessary to put some fluid in the line before attaching it to the slave in order to ensure minimal air in the system. This might make a small mess while connecting the line to the slave, just keep some rags handy.
-- At this point, the slave should full of fluid with minimal air, if any.
-- Slowly / carefully add fluid to the top end of the line, running it down the inside wall so the fluid fills the line.
-- Attach the (now full) line to the master cylinder, fill the master with fluid and put the cap on the master. **Do not pump the clutch pedal**
-- With the master cylinder full of fluid and the cap on the master, sit in the car and press the clutch pedal to the floor and HOLD IT THERE. This should be the first time you have touched the pedal during this procedure.
-- After about 3-4 minutes holding the clutch down, side-step the clutch pedal, letting it snap back up. I realize there may be little pressure holding in the system and the pedal might not exactly snap up. Repeat this "hold and snap" with the clutch pedal several times and it should build pressure and work out any air trapped in the system.
-- It might be helpful to bleed some of the fluid in case a bit of air got trapped inside the slave.
-- Check the master and top-up fluid as necessary.
-- A bit tedious but it worked for me.
-- Hope this helps you.
DGXR is offline  
The following users liked this post: DGXR
vettespecial (04-16-2019)
Old 04-16-2019, 01:25 PM
  #70  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mtwoolford View Post
Now that shouldn't be. Reverse bleed it, but first undo the hydraulic line at the clutch master cylinder; fluid should squirt right out of the line when you pump fluid into the slave. If it doesn't, the clutch hose has collapsed internally, or has an internal blockage; which by the look of all the photos and gunk is a possibility. If your clutch hose is original, which it probably is, the factory places a small restriction/ orifice inside the hose to actually slow down the engagement of the clutch. That could be blocked. At this point, especially since you can't fill the slave from the bottom without the line popping off the bleed screw, I'd suspect that some things going on with the hose.
Originally Posted by 9T3VETTE View Post
This is a great point...

I had my clutch line rebuilt by a local hydraulic hose shop for cheaper than buying aftermarket one. They made it out of flexible metal and put a nice rubber line around it which is resistant to heat and abrasion. Something to look at.
Checked that earlier this morning. First, I took the 2 nuts off the slave. To make sure the slave rod was on the clutch fork's divet. It was. Bolted it back up.

Drained the fluid through the bleed screw. Loosened the hydraulic line on the master, completely and pulled the line out of the master. Moved it over to side. Then, attempted a reverse bleed.
Again, it was hard to pump. So I loosened the screw more. It was loose enough to where fluid was dripping from the highest point of the threads on the bleed screw. It is only somewhat easy to pump fluid through, with the bleed screw that loose. Anyways, fluid did come out of the line by the master. IMO, I shouldn't have to loosen the bleed screw that much. But I could be wrong.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-16-2019, 05:27 PM
  #71  
mtwoolford
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: folsom california
Posts: 3,220
Liked 123 Times in 118 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Checked that earlier this morning. First, I took the 2 nuts off the slave. To make sure the slave rod was on the clutch fork's divet. It was. Bolted it back up.

Drained the fluid through the bleed screw. Loosened the hydraulic line on the master, completely and pulled the line out of the master. Moved it over to side. Then, attempted a reverse bleed.
Again, it was hard to pump. So I loosened the screw more. It was loose enough to where fluid was dripping from the highest point of the threads on the bleed screw. It is only somewhat easy to pump fluid through, with the bleed screw that loose. Anyways, fluid did come out of the line by the master. IMO, I shouldn't have to loosen the bleed screw that much. But I could be wrong.
wrap the threads of the bleeder screw (and only the threads) with some Teflon tape for threaded pipe fittings, usually about a $1.00 a roll at the local "Home Despot" outlet.

I'd still pull the hose and make sure its not obstructed or collapsed.

If fluids coming out by the master, (minus any air that might have been entrained with the new fluid during filling), the system should be full of fluid and air free. Got any pedal yet?

Last edited by mtwoolford; 04-16-2019 at 05:32 PM.
mtwoolford is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 06:58 PM
  #72  
turbobuick33
CF Senior Member
 
turbobuick33's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Naperville il
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default

What brand clutch master cylinder did you buy?
turbobuick33 is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 07:42 PM
  #73  
1993C4LT1
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
1993C4LT1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 14,446
Liked 366 Times in 323 Posts
Default

Wagner. It was the only one available on rock auto. Ordered a new clutch line today, through zip corvette.
1993C4LT1 is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 09:50 PM
  #74  
mtwoolford
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: folsom california
Posts: 3,220
Liked 123 Times in 118 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Wagner. It was the only one available on rock auto. Ordered a new clutch line today, through zip corvette.
good for you
mtwoolford is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Sponsored Ads
Vendor Directory

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: