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1996 ZF6 clutch fluid reservoir low

 
Old 05-01-2019, 04:15 PM
  #101  
1993C4LT1
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Ran a few searches on it. And many people have had the same issue. Usually with the 95/96 cars. But yeah, I'm pretty certain it wasn't all the way in now that I think of it.

So someone correct me if I'm wrong. A bad slave would show up as weird clutch engagement. Bad master would be rough shifts or clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. Only asking cause i've read over the years that masters and slaves for these cars are hit and miss.
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:41 PM
  #102  
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I ain't sayin' you have to do this, but pull off the entire shifter assembly from the trans; send it to Bill Bourdeau at ZFdoc; he can rebuild it, there are small u type joints and bushings that deteriorate over time..He can repair / replace all that; and while he has it, he can shorten the shifter throws. I had him do the whole enchilada on my 96 and it was a huge improvement.
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:42 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Ran a few searches on it. And many people have had the same issue. Usually with the 95/96 cars. But yeah, I'm pretty certain it wasn't all the way in now that I think of it.

So someone correct me if I'm wrong. A bad slave would show up as weird clutch engagement. Bad master would be rough shifts or clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. Only asking cause i've read over the years that masters and slaves for these cars are hit and miss.
try the DOT 5 magic elixir
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:34 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford View Post
I ain't sayin' you have to do this, but pull off the entire shifter assembly from the trans; send it to Bill Bourdeau at ZFdoc; he can rebuild it, there are small u type joints and bushings that deteriorate over time..He can repair / replace all that; and while he has it, he can shorten the shifter throws. I had him do the whole enchilada on my 96 and it was a huge improvement.
If I had to do it all over again Id go this route as well. My hurst is nice but have had binding problems with it since install. Not so bad but every now in then it wont go into gear.
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:48 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by 9T3VETTE View Post
If I had to do it all over again Id go this route as well. My hurst is nice but have had binding problems with it since install. Not so bad but every now in then it wont go into gear.
Ditto.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:19 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94 View Post
Welcome to ZF6-Hood.

1. Youtube the ranger method for clutch fluid. It is mainly for C5+ Cars, but works well I've found even with our system. I do it once ever 2 to 3 months. Not everytime I hit the gas station.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE

2. Do not go buy shifting "roughness" or "notchiness" by just sitting in the car trying to shift with the engine off and the clutch depressed.

3. Fill the fluid to the "low" line. You are correct, the rubber bellow will push the fluid to the full line when you install the cap.

Check it after a few days if it is low, time to to replace both master and salve in my opinion. Jim Jandik is retired but he may still rebuild the originals if you call him. He rebuild mine back in 2012 I believe.

Hope you are doing well Brandon!
Why wouldn't you do a complete fluid change at that point? If the clutch dust is making it's way all the way to the reservoir, imagine how much is still in the slave.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:00 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by 64Scout View Post
Why wouldn't you do a complete fluid change at that point? If the clutch dust is making it's way all the way to the reservoir, imagine how much is still in the slave.
I had a similar thought. The Ranger method is surely helpful in freshening up the fluid and is a good maintenance practice. If the Ranger method stirs up the entire system and yields 80-90% fresh fluid, I might do that going forward just for simplicity (plus I don't always have a helper to pump the pedals for me). But, while a traditional fluid bleed (out through the slave fitting) is perhaps dirtier and more difficult, it would yield nearly 100% fresh fluid. I just wonder if 80% vs 100% fresh fluid makes much difference when I'm doing this service every year?
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:46 PM
  #108  
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Last night: I bled it the way @9T3VETTE suggested about having the master full, leaving cap on and removing slave. Bench bleed it, then attach clutch line first. No matter what, this **** doesnt want to get bled. And i've tried every way. All 3 components are new. Master, slave, and line. I'll check for leaks again at the clutch line fittings. Anyways, while doing this last night, I took the boot off the old slave out of curiosity.



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Old 05-14-2019, 03:56 PM
  #109  
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I don't think it's supposed to be wet inside there...
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:20 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Last night: I bled it the way @9T3VETTE suggested about having the master full, leaving cap on and removing slave. Bench bleed it, then attach clutch line first. No matter what, this **** doesnt want to get bled. And i've tried every way. All 3 components are new. Master, slave, and line. I'll check for leaks again at the clutch line fittings. Anyways, while doing this last night, I took the boot off the old slave out of curiosity.


it (almost?) looks like someone packed that with grease to retard leaking in the (very?) short term?
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:19 PM
  #111  
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Possibly. I spoke to ZF Doc about this. He says not to do full pump strokes. Says to do 1 inch stroker till bubbles are gone. What a journey lol. Next update will be when she is fully bled.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:58 AM
  #112  
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Bummer you are having so much trouble, it can be frustrating as hell. On the bright side, once it's bled and working properly you shouldn't have to touch it!
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:28 PM
  #113  
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Anyone done it this way before? I'm referring to what I circled in red. I tried it. Pushing the rod in is like bench pressing. At least to me. So I got tired of pushing the rod in pretty fast. I was doing it myself, so couldn't see if bubbles were coming out or not by doing it that way.

Bolted the slave back up. Pumped the pedal by letting my foot slide off the clutch. **** ton of small bubbles came out, and continue to do so. Where I circled in this pic below, there fluid coming out of that area. I didn't notice it until I would push on the rod by hand. Is that why these bubbles don't go away?

Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 05-16-2019 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 04:31 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Anyone done it this way before? I'm referring to what I circled in red. I tried it. Pushing the rod in is like bench pressing. At least to me. So I got tired of pushing the rod in pretty fast. I was doing it myself, so couldn't see if bubbles were coming out or not by doing it that way.

Bolted the slave back up. Pumped the pedal by letting my foot slide off the clutch. **** ton of small bubbles came out, and continue to do so. Where I circled in this pic below, there fluid coming out of that area. I didn't notice it until I would push on the rod by hand. Is that why these bubbles don't go away?

Bump Same question that I listed in the quoted text.
I've pumped the pedal several times since. Fluid hasn't leaked out of that spot. It'll only leak out of there if I unbolt the slave, and push on the rod with my hand. Will that cause my system to never be bubble free?

Bill says not to pump the clutch pedal fast, or even all the way down. Says it'll aerate the fluid. Instead, he says to pump it with 1-2inches of pedal travel. He tells me after 75-100 pumps, bubbles should be gone. They aren't. It's embarrassing i've had to ask all these questions, on what is a simple task. I'm sure you guys are just as annoyed as I am. I apologize. But, I'm dedicated as a **** with these cars. And if I take it to a shop, they'll charge me for not fixing it. And doing/telling me what I already know/did.

Everything is new. No leaks from the back of the master, none from the clutch line/fittings. Pulled off the slave, took the rod out. Shined a light inside the boot. No leakage either.
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Old Yesterday, 09:12 PM
  #115  
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Are you sure that the rod is seated in the fork. I had this problem and it drove me crazy. I reverse bled mine (1992) with no drama. LOL.

Good Luck!
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