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Sorry should have been more specific. The water pump drive shaft assembly on the engine.
the splined shaft on the water pump just fits into a splined hole in the top timing gear. I don't believe there is any thing on the engine side to be loose. unless the shaft stayed with engine when wp was pulled
Should leak coolant. but not always. when I did my cam swap and pulled wp I found the bearing in wp literally destroyed and never knew it. I really dodged a bullet as I track car a lot. that bearing was wobbly and raspy as hell when I spun it with my fingers after removed.
Got the hub and timing cover off. Could u recommend a good timing chain and gears set? No new cam but I am going with electric water pump. Do I have to change the oil pan gasket at the front of oil pan underneath timing cover? Or replace complete oil pan gasket with a fel pro or other? Also should I drop front of oil pan a little when I reinstall timing cover?
If your going with EWP I recommend a Cloyes Timing chain set. you may have to mill a little bit of material off the inside of timing cover. if you don't want it to leak you need to drop oil pan. do all work on front of motor putting timing cover back on first then on with oil pan with new Felpro gasket. (its a 1 pcs. gasket) you will also need to freeze plug fill the holes in timing cover where wp drive gear goes through as well as back of wp housing
Cloyes. They also made the " extreme duty" for GM. GMPP timing set is rediculously expensive, It's also sold in pieces. With the age of the car it would be a good idea to replace it. Yes it's one piece. Engine has a housing for rear main. Transmission has to come out to change it, opposed to the 2 piece rear seal in 85 and earlier block. Don't worry with the rear seal.
I remember that job - big fun. But I didn't replace the oil pan gasket and it was as dry as a bone for the next 26k miles until I sold it. I replaced lots of timing covers growing up.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 24, 2019 at 09:44 PM.
Ok I'm going to drop pan down. I'm really don't have tools for milling. I just want to change timing chain and gears with a good stock replacement. A little concerned with front crank gear removal and replacement. Service manual calls for special tools for both install and replacement. I've never done it and don't want to damage anything any suggestions before I start is appreciated. Also I need my timing cover top hole welded and need to find a place to take it. I'd like to buy one but closest was a 96.
Don't weld on cover. Freeze or core plug in place of seal. Take seal to auto parts or hardware store to match up diameter. I would install it from inside so once it's flush, there should be no way it contact timing chain. If is sticks out a little it should not contact pump.
do you have a method to reinstall crank hub? it's pressed on and you either need a very expensive tool or a grade 8 7/16-fine thread all thread and some nuts washers and never seize
I'll be glad when I get to install hub because it means I'm putting stuff back together. After dropping left converter pan doesn't look so hard. Been working a lot and keep finding other stuff I need to do while I got stuff apart.
Question: I want to replace power steering unit, not leaking but 90k miles. The pulley has a hex head in center of shaft. Is that part of the shaft? If so can I go ahead and put a press it? I tried already and stopped something didn't seem right. Am I wrong?
I'll be glad when I get to install hub because it means I'm putting stuff back together. After dropping left converter pan doesn't look so hard. Been working a lot and keep finding other stuff I need to do while I got stuff apart.
Question: I want to replace power steering unit, not leaking but 90k miles. The pulley has a hex head in center of shaft. Is that part of the shaft? If so can I go ahead and put a press it? I tried already and stopped something didn't seem right. Am I wrong?
Thank you,
Chuck
I wasn't sure about the pulley I asked my buddy who is a mechanic this is your answer
That hex is used for nothing. The shaft is threaded inside for a pulley press tool.
If you got that passenger side cat off that's the hardest part of the job
I'll be glad when I get to install hub because it means I'm putting stuff back together. After dropping left converter pan doesn't look so hard. Been working a lot and keep finding other stuff I need to do while I got stuff apart.
Question: I want to replace power steering unit, not leaking but 90k miles. The pulley has a hex head in center of shaft. Is that part of the shaft? If so can I go ahead and put a press it? I tried already and stopped something didn't seem right. Am I wrong?
Thank you,
Chuck
This is what I used to press crank hub back on. I just put never seize on threads. Make sure rod is grade 8 or better. That hub takes a ton of pressure to get back on. I ordered rod from McMaster Carr. $16. For 3'. If you were close I'd let you have the half I didn't use. Keep up posted.
Thanks friend, but I'm in beautiful El Paso lol, probably not near anybody way out here. Info on ps pulley helps me.
Questin: want to go electric on wp and remove the drive shaft. It was suggested I use a freeze plug to seal front cover. Looks like I'd have to drill out or file out the center? Or get a small freeze plug and silicone the slots on each side? Not sure this makes sense.
Thank you for taking the time to ask your friend about ps pulley.
Chuck on the border
Your right fan comes with plug. I was talking about the opening in the timing chain cover sealing it up. Someone told me not to weld it but freeze plug it.
