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I replaced the bushings on my 93 convertible, and now the doors stick. If I turn the **** on the motors, before I turn the switch on, they work fine. Is it an adjustment? Or something else.
Try unplugging one and see if the other works fine. Then swap and see what happens.
Could possibly be that there is a voltage drop. Is your battery completely charged or motor running when you test them?
Are the connectors clean? Did you use any lube when you put them back together?
This starting happening after I put the bushings in. the battery is completely charged when I test them. I did use lube, I will check the connectors, but this car has 16k on it, and is always in the garage.
If I may join/hijack this thread, I'm having the same issue with a reman motor I installed on my '86. From what I've studied, the motor depends on shaft endplay to stop the motors when the pod contacts the stop screws.
Your issue is the same I'm facing in that the motor is winding too tight at the end of it's travel and jamming there until the pressure is released by turning the emergency **** on the end of the motor. I'd suggest rechecking the limit switches inside the motor.
We have MAJOR confusion here! The '84 - '87 headlight door mechanisms are entirely different that the later mechanisms. Only the early cars have the limit switches, and only the later cars have the "bushings/pellets".
The early cars depend on the motor armature shifting axially in its bearings when the door hits the stops in the headlight door frame. This axial shift of the armature actuates the limit switches.
The '88 - '96 cars detect the stalling of the motor when the door hits the stops in the door frame, because this stalling of the motor causes the current thru the motor to dramatically rise. This change of current is detected by the electronic module, which then shuts off the voltage to the motor.
The "bushings/pellets" in the late cars act as a shock absorber when the motor hits the stops. These pellets allow the motor shaft to slip a little bit at the end of its travel to absorb this physical shock. Otherwise the gears would eventually break! That's why the pellets eventually wear out.
Roy
I'm fighting the exact same issue that Gunn is fighting in that the motor is sticking when it reaches full travel to either open or close the headlamp door. The motor has to be rotated 2 turns or so to relieve the pressure because the motor screws down so tight, it doesn't have enough torque to rotate in the opposite direction.
He's fighting it on both motors after replacing the bushings and I'm fighting it on the side where I had to install a reman motor and a used headlamp ***'y after the deer strike.