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It's a 383 ( carb) with a roller and 6 speed Richmond. Super reliable and really quick + great gas mileage.
The instrument cluster has been doing the normal C4 crap over the last few years. Going dark when on uneven roads, going to all 888*** when crossing RR tracks. (did not care as I run a Sun Tach.)
I knew there was an alarm in the car that was supposedly disconnected by the PO.
Well the alarm was preventing starting and I by passed the key with a starter button ( for when the key would not crank the car) . Worked well and everything was good.
Since I am starting to use the car more and more and letting the C3's rest, I decided to fix things.
I pulled the cluster and went through the boards - the looked excellent. No bad solder joints and the board was coated and clean.
I found a tag on the cluster from United Radio Automotive Products with a order number and serial number. I called them and they said they repaired the cluster in 1991. So I inquired and they still do the repairs, cost around $200 + shipping $20. It's on it's way.
I found the Viper alarm under the dash and numerous cut wires with 6 relays. Needless to say it's all gone now.
The car starts and runs perfectly .
Will let you know if the cluster works great / good when it comes back. They claim the turn-around is 4 days .. lets hope.
Those guys are in New York right? Iirc my cluster had the same tag on it. Dated to 1989. Aside from the cold solder joints I fixed mine still works great. I believe they were GM contractors for those clusters on warranty.
Yes in NY, No cold solder Joints - I checked. Some of the resistors did not look so good. Hard to get a reading with my IBM expanded scale Test Meter as I don't know all the circuits.
Cleaned all the contacts and checked all the wires.
If it's toast I'll go with gauges.
May have been the better choice but felt the original cluster was kind of retro cool .
The cluster has 90k + miles on it. Said 45k on the tag - maybe fixed at that mileage ?.
Entirely possible. I was just saying that was what failed on mine. It would just randomly go out and cycle the segments. I replaced one Darlington NPN transistor in mine also. That is what fixed the cruise control. The circuit was fine but the way the transistor blew it registered on the cruise logic that the brakes were always on. Drove me insane.
I just had mine apart to do the polarized film, once back I I found that I left out the color background, so it came out again. After that the segments dont light up properly, so it came out and I wiped each connector block with a Kleenex and put it back in... still no better. I'm getting fed up, and for $200 it sounds like a deal to me.
85 pulled the cluster and found
