ryank9398

I have a D36 with 3.07. The engine makes 480 peak hp. The converter is 2400. I would love to gear the car at about 3.73, use sticky tires on the occasional weekend and not worry about breaking. Anyone who has broke the D36, how did it happen and what are the limits? I don't see myself using a full slick, but maybe a drag radial. Will a full weight car with my hp break this thing? Should I be looking for a D44?

What do you look for with a D44 swap? I'll need the c-beam and driveshaft too, right? Are any model years favored over the others?

Kevova

It really depends on how much you spend to get a D44. If you find a 3.54 or 3.45 cheap you come out a head with the D44. I wouldn't change gear until I had atleast at test weekend. If you start with a d44 with a 3.07 It's expensive either way. D44 driveshaft is shorter than D36. D36 C beam could be modified by drilling holes in correct location on transmission end.

vader86

The torque number is what breaks things, specifically the instantaneous torque delivered to the axle at the moment you hook it up. Street tires, probably forever because they'll spin. Drag Radial it may last quite awhile, might last 10 passes down the strip, might last 1000. Slicks, definitely wont.

C4 D44 are all the same to my knowledge, you'll just need the whole axle setup. Everything in the suspension swaps over.

aklim

My car makes 420 at the rear wheels and I broke the D36 on street tires. No passes at the time but IDK what the PO did with the stock motor that I threw out. Really, I wouldn't spend another penny on the D36 if you are modified and just bite the bullet and get the D44 and get it refreshed with the gear of your choice. Probably be happier in the long run.

The difference between doing it now and when it breaks is that YOU choose the time it is down as opposed to IT choosing the time of demise.

RWDsmoke

I broke my D36 3.07 with street tires on rough concrete. I had a lot of low end torque and launched from idle hitting the torque converter hard. Sounded like a gunshot under the car. I could still drive the car and everything seemed fine as long as I didn't punch it . I found the carrier was cracked by the bearing for the axle yoke.

65Z01

Try "feathering" the accelerator on launch.

When my '88 was making 300chp with a 2,000rpm TC on streets I had to use that method even on a tight track. Even then she would pull mid 1.8s with a good baro.

With your HP you likely need a D44 on DRs and use my method...or, try slicks and see how long she lasts.