C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1985 stalling

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Old Apr 20, 2019 | 04:24 PM
  #1  
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Default 1985 stalling

So it’s really weird. Some days the car will run good, (disregarding that is accelerates slow and has terrible MPG)

ive replaces:
-Battery
-fuses
-relays
-fuel pump
-spark plugs

things that I KNOW need work:
-vacuum lines (which I’m terribly confused on where they are, diagrams don’t seem to help)


basically when im driving sometimes it’ll drive totally fine.

a lot of times when I start the car up it will die in idle. The car idles at 520-600. It will die. I turn it back on. It will die, turn it back on, it’ll work for a bit, then die. Blah blah blah



i dont know if this could be the vacuum lines or something else.
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Old Apr 20, 2019 | 04:35 PM
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Well, before you can make any other critical adjustments you have to have the vacuum sorted out.

Look at the diagram I linked in the last thread.. Can you identify the components there which the lines connect?
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Old Apr 20, 2019 | 04:46 PM
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It's pretty basic, actually.. You just go from component to component, and make sure the lines connect them like in the picture and don't leak.

It will be good practice for when you need to use a wiring diagram later on!
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Old Apr 22, 2019 | 01:34 PM
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Last edited by Tinman28; Apr 22, 2019 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2019 | 11:11 AM
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Only speaking from my personal experience with my 85 after owning the car for so long. I had the same problem many, many years ago. Turned out to be bad ecm. Ran great for a bit then would chug, cut out and die. Then would be hard to start, backfire, run rich... idle all over the place, - then clear up like nothing happened. I couldn't trust to the car because it would just cut out with no warning.

Others might say bad maf, or burn off module, even a shorting ignition module.. you might want to unplug the maf and run it to see if things improve. If they do, that also might be the problem. I doubt it is vacuum lines. You might want to google service bulletins for the ecm/pcm issue. I think there was one issued.
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Old Apr 24, 2019 | 11:41 AM
  #6  
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Take a look at your distributor cap and roto ... I bet it has corroded contacts ... ask me how I know.
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Old Apr 24, 2019 | 11:54 AM
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My car is an 85 and the vacuum is not correct in the pic provided

This is the best version I have done, as the 85 book version is too small to see where the lines go. Our solenoid is still by the Dizzy.

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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 04:50 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by xrav22
My car is an 85 and the vacuum is not correct in the pic provided

This is the best version I have done, as the 85 book version is too small to see where the lines go. Our solenoid is still by the Dizzy.

I had a similar problem, my issue was the fuel filter. Since I changed it the car runs great.
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Old May 1, 2019 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason123
So it’s really weird. Some days the car will run good, (disregarding that is accelerates slow and has terrible MPG)

ive replaces:
-Battery
-fuses
-relays
-fuel pump
-spark plugs

things that I KNOW need work:
-vacuum lines (which I’m terribly confused on where they are, diagrams don’t seem to help)


basically when im driving sometimes it’ll drive totally fine.

a lot of times when I start the car up it will die in idle. The car idles at 520-600. It will die. I turn it back on. It will die, turn it back on, it’ll work for a bit, then die. Blah blah blah



i dont know if this could be the vacuum lines or something else.
Hi

Poor MPG may be due to retarded ignition, that will affect idle check and set to 6deg btdc.
Check the EGR valve, if it sticks open that can cause the car to run rough and stall.

Next to check the base idle setup, (if the throttle stop screw has been messed with).
Good luck

Last edited by gerardvg; May 1, 2019 at 09:32 AM.
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Old May 1, 2019 | 08:44 PM
  #10  
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We have an ignition control module that can fail and makes the car die ect. It is under the rotor. It is a must to at least check the cap and rotor
visually once . Take off the cap and inspect for the usual suspects remove the rotor and inspect that the ignition wires are pressed all the way on. If one is loose you will melt your plug wires(AMHIK). They are connected to the ICM and there should be computer thermal paste(thin like for a cpu install) under it. Perhaps a good time to redo the thermal paste and visually check wires , cap and rotor. My wires were new and still 2 melted. Don't let your wires cross each other if possible it does help. While at it take the coil tested cant hurt
Good Luck
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Old May 7, 2019 | 02:07 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by viii
Only speaking from my personal experience with my 85 after owning the car for so long. I had the same problem many, many years ago. Turned out to be bad ecm. Ran great for a bit then would chug, cut out and die. Then would be hard to start, backfire, run rich... idle all over the place, - then clear up like nothing happened. I couldn't trust to the car because it would just cut out with no warning.

Others might say bad maf, or burn off module, even a shorting ignition module.. you might want to unplug the maf and run it to see if things improve. If they do, that also might be the problem. I doubt it is vacuum lines. You might want to google service bulletins for the ecm/pcm issue. I think there was one issued.
Because I know my vacuum lines need work, but do you think it’s still something else causing the problem?
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Old May 7, 2019 | 02:13 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by gerardvg
Hi

Poor MPG may be due to retarded ignition, that will affect idle check and set to 6deg btdc.
Check the EGR valve, if it sticks open that can cause the car to run rough and stall.

Next to check the base idle setup, (if the throttle stop screw has been messed with).
Good luck
Can you explain this more, I don’t understand 😂
Reply

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