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The center cap is stuck to the rim . I have removed the locking bolt.
The car has been sitting in a barn since 04 and the wheels haven't been removed
for at least 25 years.I have never seen the cap off. Is the cap a tapered fit and is it keyed to the rim.
It appears to oxidized between the rim and the OD of the cap. any suggestions?
The center cap is stuck to the rim . I have removed the locking bolt.
The car has been sitting in a barn since 04 and the wheels haven't been removed
for at least 25 years.I have never seen the cap off. Is the cap a tapered fit and is it keyed to the rim.
It appears to oxidized between the rim and the OD of the cap. any suggestions?
If these are stock '89 caps those I believe that had a rubber o-ring that if left 'untouched' for a very long time i'd think could become tough to remove. Maybe a plastic/nylon 'Spudger' or whatever they're called. If something other than the '88/'89 wheels mention what they are.
Search eBay for 10055340 for a couple of very good snapshots.
I have tried the stock tool , it will not budge. these are stock 89 rims and caps.
do u think placing a round bar in the counterbore for the locknut
and trying to drive it side ways would work? hence the questions about if the cap is keyed
and or taperlocked. If it is an o ring i would think side ways (rotational movement) shouldn't hurt?
The cap is keyed, so don’t try to twist it off. There is a o ring that helps to seal the cap. Try spraying some wd40 around the edge of the cap When it breaks loose it will pull straight out
I would suggest some penetrating oil. If you have corrosion your going to have to refinish the wheel and/or cap anyway. The oils should help and then consider a rubber hammer to tap around the edge of the cap to see if you can break the corrosion bond free. After that then go with the plastic/wooden dowel in the locking hole and the screw driver in the slot to pry lightly. If none of those work lastly they sell a freeze spray, let the wheels heat in the sun and then spray the center cap to contract it a bit. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I had a very light slide-hammer that had an attachment 5-6mm wide that would do these quite well. It would have needed maybe 3-4mm depth from bore to the actual wheel center to hook.. Looking at an eBay of the 10055340 it looks to have at least that much clearance. That's why I mentioned searching eBay for that part #, it would show you how it's indexed to a wheel stud direct opposite in the wheel center., the o-ring used to seal etc.
I do like Joel's 'rubber mallet' after a 'SOAK'!
I've a friend who would likely use a wood block, a muffler tool with a blunt tip and very low air pressure vs the rubber mallet!!
As suggested Previously the slide Hammer, when we had one of the cars that the flat Plates was stuck we had one of the factory wheel lock tools mounted in a small Body shop Slide Hammer. The bigger problem was an over Tightened Wheel lock Bolt and the Wimpy contours on the Tool.