Stellabarbara

I have looked everywhere in the forum but have had no luck. I lost a ignition key, the only key I have left is starting to wear and sometimes kills the car, then I wait. So I got a new key and had it cut. It goes into the ignition just fine but won’t turn.i have jiggled many times and in and out in and out about 50 times. The original key works just fine. I made rubber molds of each key and they appear to be exactly the same. They even look exactly the same. I’m getting frustrated. I had the burrs removed, but still no idea why it won’t turn the ignition. Any ideas?

WVZR-1

What year is this car?

Joe C

from what I remember, she has a white over red, 1990 (same as the one I use to own).

to the OP - the new key you had made - was it made from a GM blank? just asking....

Stellabarbara

1990 white with red interior. The key came from Zip. It looks like a real GM key has the GM logo and black casing on it. I can’t see any difference it the two keys.

Toy96CE

Could be the wrong resistance.

Joe C

OK, who cut the key for you? about the only thing I can say is have a locksmith take a look a the keys. there may be something the average person is overlooking - ??? you may want to go to an actual dealer for a replacement, have them cut the blank, and go from there. there could be something with the cylinder lock and the key interaction. good luck -

Joe C

that wouldn't keep the key from turning in the cylinder lock - only the starting sequence..

cdm747

I would think any reputable locksmith would have a blank and should be able to make it work. Don't go to one of the big box stores or a local hardware store. Go to a real locksmith and you should have no problem.

WVZR-1

I thought that maybe if it were an '87 or '86 maybe you ended up with an inappropriate key. The cylinder design was changed and the actual key length was changed also in '87. I wouldn't think ZIP had any older keys. Regardless of how the key looks or appears maybe what I'd consider is going to a dealer and have a 'work key' cut and see if it will rotate the cylinder. A GM # for the 'work key' would be 26007687. Do you know if the cylinder has ever been changed? Maybe get the dealer to a 'key call' by VIN and see if maybe the original code matches what you've got now. Let the dealer cut it by 'code' vs tracing if the code matches the VIN still.

I don't recall if the longer key worked for the older shorter (I believe so) but the older shorter key likely didn't work in the newer later cylinders.

**If the code still matches the VIN let them do an attempt cutting by code of the key that doesn't now work.

Yours isn't an unheard of situation! You only had the one working key? Happens when tracing!

Stellabarbara

I took it to a Chevy Dealership and paid $10 to have it cut. The good key on Left, bad key on right. 🤔

Checked it on the Ohms reader. They both read the same number. 🤔

hcbph

It may be an optical illusion, but it looks to me like the length of the 2 keys is different from the resistor to the end of the key.

Stellabarbara

Optional illusion. I can take the keys and reverse them and they both fit perfectly in the other mold. Checked them with a microscope and don’t see a difference.
I ordered another key, but now I’m wondering if that one will work.
It goes in nicely, but just won’t turn.
Does the resistor allow the key to turn? Or is the connection to the resistor done when the key is turned and then makes the contact to start the car. 🤔

3D-Aircrew

From my eye the left one looks like the main notch is deeper cut slightly.
Also, you might have to have another one cut from a blank but this time don't let them copy it, have them cut it using the VIN number.

jmeyer58

+1 cut from VIN not from old key. As they wear the peaks are worn and it may not release the cylinder to turn.

Stellabarbara

How would that work from the Vin?
I’ll check the key in that area with calipers to see. Interesting. Thank you.

WVZR-1

Guys - if the cylinder isn't original cut to VIN is a 'NO GO'! I mentioned asking a dealer to check!! I also mentioned 'IF' the code matched a VIN to attempt to cut the non worker with the 'CODE' vs a trace! I mentioned a 'work key' also. OP posted after that the key was done @ a dealer. The dealer owes him nothing but 'help' - it ain't their fault I'm surprised they charged but I asked a friend ( works @ delaer) a while ago and he said they charge for carry in blanks UNLESS it's a known good customer.

arbee

As has been mentioned, take it to a locksmith. They have a hand held "punch" that shears the key rather than grinding it from the worn key. Each pin land(I believe the GM key has 5) will be measured, wear accounted for, and the dials set on the key punch.

Stellabarbara

Its the original key cylinder for the car.
My whole car is pretty much original, other than the parts that wear over time. I have 21,300 miles on her (Sweetie).
I guess my best bet is to take it back to dealer, have them rerun the key and when I get the new key, have them go off the vin.
Still have one good key for now. But I’m SOL if this one goes bad.

Thank you everyone for you thoughts and help.

Joe C

- if you get another key blank, get it thru the dealer.

3D-Aircrew

I think you have to show them a registration or title.