Spun #1 rod bearing, can't find a cause tho! =(

 

As was mentioned earlier, your mechanic won't be able to communicate with the 96 PCM without Jet DST. This car is OBD2, but more modern tuning software like HP Tuners doesn't work with it.
Hooker Super Competition 2151 is a good option. They make plain and coated options. I'm running those and they fit well and work well. I'm sure ARH must be able to sell just the headers - they may just not list them on their site.

 

What are you going to do with the O2 sensors ? While you can turn of the mil signal for the back 2 off (they are there to ensure the cats are working and there), the ecm looks at the O2 sensors for fueling adjustment purposes.

So was the local tuner able to force it and reflash the chip ?

Same as above, how are you going to apply the tune. And good luck with that. If someone gets caught deleting smog controls commercially they can be prosecuted. How are they going to know you aren't a fed setting them up ?

 

Good point. So the Hooker 2151 headers have no smog or O2 provisions. But any shop and install bungs in the collectors for the pre-cat O2 sensors. As you note, the PCM needs these to run properly. But it's cheap and easy to do. OTOH, I think Hooker also makes otherwise-identical long-tube Super Comp headers that have the bungs as well as the AIR hookups. I'm not sure if those hookups are for L98 cars or Lt1 cars, though.

And yes, he's going to need Jet DST just to reflash the PCM, no matter who edits the calibration file. If the only thing he's doing is shutting off the rear O2 sensor tests and AIR tests, he can do that himself without paying anyone.

 

You and I know that. Trying to get that point across to the OP.

 

For sure, I'm just reiterating to drive that point home to him.

 

Despite all the propaganda and myths to the contrary, the small block chevy oiling system is far from optimal. Back in the olden times, when stock cars actually raced with stock engines, a ton of mods were done to those chevy small block oiling systems; much of that knowledge lives on in racing boat engines; just goggle it if you need to take more than my word for it. Also, do you think it's just coincidence, that the rod bearing farthest away from the oil pump failed? There have been many, many, posts on this forum throughout the years, all complaining of rod bearing failures , so your unfortunate experience is not unheard of.

 

Try Melrose or TPiS

 

When I first brought the ECM to him he got a connection light, but his laptop couldnt talk to the ECM. He has a harness that plugs directly in, eliminating the cars harness and got the same results. He suspected it had been corrupted via the power surge (long story) or had been previously reflashed by an aftermarket.

Who said anything about deleting O2 sensors?

Yes, it had to be sent to a buddy out of state to reflash it to OEM and then once back here, the local guy downloaded the OEM file successfully. So he called me to come pick up the ECM now that its good to go and once the motor is back in ill deliver it back for DYNO.

The machine he used was a Tuffbook running Windows XP or 2000 (something old AF). He has a harness that plugs into the ECM directly and has been tuning since the old days long before the modern era. I think the confusion here is you guys are basing your experience one what you went through personally, which I totally understand. The guy he sent the ECM to has some sort of old GM equipment he uses for cases like mine. Im sure GM didnt buy Jet DST in 1996.

If i remember correctly, in my original post I stated that the #1 rod bearing is the last to receive oil and the motor showed signs of lack of proper oil delivery. Thats why I asked for background on the LT series specifically as I never built one before and know it was the shortest run in GM history. I have an 88 Vette with a heavily modded L-98. On that motor there is oil gallery access in the top of the block, above the timing cover and just below the intake. I threaded the passage and installed an AN fitting and routed an oil line from the clean side of the oil filter pad to that location, which feeds the front of the main oil gallery and effectively pumps oil into BOTH sides of the gallery for just the reasons discussed here. I find no such access on the LTx blocks likely due to the hokey water pump contraption im likely going to delete with a Mezier electric pump. Do you know of a way to access the front of the main oil gallery so that I can do the same to this motor as I did on my L-98?

Yeah I was wondering about those, I dont think TPIS offers them without all the AIR tubes but ill be looking into that if AR wont sell me just the tubes...

 

No we understand about the 1996 cars. They are a one year only interface. The 96 Corvettes are OBDII. Possibly a GM Tech 1/2 was used for the reflash. The predecessor to the Jet software could be used to update and communicate with the CPU. If he had bought the software/interface, prior to it being passed off to Jet, then that would allow him to communicate with the ECM.

Another software/interface, ie: LT1 Edit was also modified to work with the OBDII interface.

We are also sure GM didn't buy Jet. The predecessor software to Jet DST was TunerCat.

As far as the O2 sensors, you keep going on about deleting the emission stuff and running straight headers so we/I are/were making an assumption. Right or wrong it is all how you present it that governs how people interpret what you are trying to say.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-test-lts.html

American Racing headers is not cheap but may do headers without the AIR fittings, if not plug them if you want them deleted.

 

american racing will build their headers with or without the air fittings. you choose that option when ordering them.

 

Yes im well aware, its been discussed ad nauseum. Ive been doing this a very long time too. Ive been on the GM-ECM mailing list for somewhere around 20 years. I remember when Megasquirt was still swimming with a tail. =)

He made it sound like it was way above Tech 2, like Dev level maybe? I have a Tech 2 laying around somewhere, I didnt think it was OBDII reflash capable. Ill have to try and dig that old thing up. Its been many many years since I messed with this stuff; Craig Moates ZIF adapter with an AMD chip in my '88.

This is likely as he did a lot of LT-1 stuff back in the day.

Im sorry if the nature of text had you thinking this was smart-***, it was just sarcastic humor, my apologies.

I remember TunerCat when it was cutting edge, I know he has a TunerCat machine setup as well.

Hold on, you guys thought I was planning to remove all 4 O2's??? Then run the car open loop?? Or am I misunderstanding? I didnt think I came across that stupid; I really need to take a step back and see where I could have came across that way. LOL!

I just got off the phone and they quoted me $1200 plus shipping for just headers, thats more than my LS swap headers for my Chevelle! But if they are worth it, buy once cry once right? I just want to make sure there isnt a, "sufficient" alternative first. =)

100%, just learned this via phone, thanks! They said any configuration, just tell them when ordering. 3 weeks turn time so they clearly, "make to order" which I dont blame them for something this old!

 

I bought American Racing Headers. They are not installed yet, but have the look of quality and are 1 3/4 in primaries.

Communicating on the internet is hard. No one knows the other person's experience, until you have posted a bit. Also we are all guilty (we includes me) of assuming that people reading what we post are reading our thoughts and know exactly what we mean.

I went with ARH instead of Stainless Steel Works because of the quality and I was a bit perturbed at them. They are local to me and they wanted to use my car to make sure that the O2 sensor bungs were in the right places for the back 2 for the 1996's. They were going to give me "1/2 off their installation" but charge me full MSRP and tax. At the time, it would have cost me over $600 plus fuel costs and time lost to do them a favor as Zip Corvette was selling their headers for a very attractive price at the time.

I told them that also. Me do you a favor and cost me a bunch of money, no thanks. Final cost would have been close to 2200 +-.

 

Yeah they recommended 1 3/4" for my setup as well.

100%

WOW super douchey!

Melrose doesn't show headers anymore so I called to confirm if they are discontinued, waiting to hear back. TPIS hasn't called me back yet either. The Hookers (Hooker Super Competition 2151) list, "5/16” machined flanges for a perfect seal" which seems super THIN. For $850 I think $300 more to go the ARH sounds like money well spent? 304 stainless and much thicker flange.

 

I had them on my car for 12 years, and one of those originals is still on there. The other broke because I'm a dumbass ( I didn't check the header bolts - long story). The flanges are still straight as an arrow. They are plenty strong. I would think that thicker flanges would just make installation more difficult, since they push the bolts out further toward the primaries that curve around/over them.

 

BROKE?!?

That could be, but usually its sealing that's the issue with flanges, since you only deal with installation much less rarely.

Did you get coated?

 

i went thru this a few years ago with stainless works and will never do business with them again. i ordered their 1 5/8 headers thru summit and then had them drop shipped to jet hot for coating then sent to me. then i installed them and this is where the fun begins. the tubes for 1 and 2 block the spark plugs so much i could not get a ratchet on the socket on the spark plug. had to use a wrench to turn the socket. then i went to hook up the air fittings and the air tube were not straight, both sides were angled 15* to the right (passenger side) so their fixture was off but try to convince them of that and no dice. i fought with them for 2 months trying to get it straightened out. finally they relented ( got tired of hearing from me every day ) and i sent the passenger side to them and they cut and repositioned the fitting which is a half assed fix. then i had to get the header re-coated. the drivers side has a somewhat flexible hose routing so i let that one slide. the header are still on the car, the tune was with these headers and the car is in quantico, va with my son. i have a set of arh step headers still in the box waiting for the car to come back home where a 383 is waiting to go in, along with the new headers.

 

Yeah, but I promise it was my fault and not Hooker's.

Never an issue with warpage or sealing. In fact, even with at least one header bolt on each side missing or backed way out, they stayed sealed (amazingly). I just wouldn't let the flange thickness prevent you from buying them. It's simply not a problem.

No, the first set was installed by the previous owner and they are just plain painted. They don't look super pretty but they aren't super rusty either, and structurally they were fine after all these years.

 

Im not doubting, I'm curious what exactly, "broke"?

Yeah that's my conundrum, I'm in Las Vegas, so it's a desert and no salt or rain. But I've never had good luck with exhaust coatings and that's why I was leaning towards stainless. Some WD-40 when new, let them glaze over, and forget them forever. But GEEZUS they are rapey on price for Corvette's!

I hate header wrap too but raw stainless coupled with already SMOKING under hood temps sucks as well...

Im not convinced at the effectiveness of the so called, "ceramic" coatings heat insulation ability. My personal experience was it was a waste of money performance wise and was merely a durable cosmetic improvement...