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C68 heater door replacement

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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 04:36 PM
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Default C68 heater door replacement

So I am trying to repair/replace the heater door actuator in my 1990 coupe. From what I can find no one seems to know how to do this. So far I have the dash off and cant figure out where the heck the heater box is attached to the car. I figured if I removed the entire heater box I can access this blasted part from out side the car and with any luck I will flush and check my heater core with it all out.

I suspect if I remove the heater core lines and remove all the bolts for the evaporator housing it "should" come out. If anyone knows better or can save me from 2 days of headache please let me know.
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 05:15 PM
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I assume your heater door is the same as earlier. It is in the passenger footwell. Access from under pass side. When I replaced my heater core I saw the door
For the box.
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 05:45 PM
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For 90-92 (without airbags) it is located on top of the heater box. I did a 96 a few weeks ago and it was a breeze being underneath
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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 08:27 PM
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subbed. just bought a 91
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 12:46 AM
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Replaced mine a year or so ago. You have to take the heater box out, it's attached with screws around the perimeter. The top ones are really fun, FSM will help finding all. I had to remove the dash pad also, can't figure out how to reach the screws with it in place. I also took out pretty much everything in front of the heater box, though that wasn't strictly necessary. The air ducts require a little persuasion. On mine the actuator was actually quite fine but a plastic adapter/bushing was worn so much the heater door 'flapped', I 3D printed a new one.

Last edited by frosted; Jul 2, 2019 at 12:48 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by frosted
On mine the actuator was actually quite fine but a plastic adapter/bushing was worn so much the heater door 'flapped', I 3D printed a new one.
The one the blend door rod connects to inside the heater box? For anyone without a 3D printer, the DOORMAN door lock rod clip assortment pack #75450 (I think it was ~$4.00 on Amazon) has a great replacement in it. At least it does for my '87. There's a few similar ones in there but one particular one is the proper direction and pin diameter where it clips into the door.

Last edited by scorp508; Jul 2, 2019 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by scorp508
The one the blend door rod connects to inside the heater box? For anyone without a 3D printer, the DOORMAN door lock rod clip assortment pack #75450 (I think it was ~$4.00 on Amazon) has a great replacement in it. At least it does for my '87. There's a few similar ones in there but one particular one is the proper direction and pin diameter where it clips into the door.
On your 87, how did you reconnect the rod to the blend door motor? Like how much of the screw part was sticking out past the white nut when you reconnected it?

And I believe the way you are supposed to do this is you have the ground disconnected at the battery. Then you connect the rod to the blend door motor via that white nut. Then you reconnect the ground on the battery. And then turn the key to ON. And then the blend door will self-adjust itself with the screw going through the white nut to find the 60 then 90 position?

It's been a while since I did mine. But I believe I also looked through the resistor pack that is on top of the EVAC box in the engine bay to make sure the blend door was shutting all the way when at 60 and then at 90. I seem to recall that I had to pop that rod off and re-adjust where I snapped that rod onto the white nut in order for the blend door to be fully shut when at 60 and then at 90.
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