I've been considering Techron. I've watched the YouTube videos of some of the cleaning products, results seemed less than overwhelming endorsements of the products but the tests weren't necessarily scientific. I wish I'd have scoped my cylinders when I had the plugs out so I'd have a baseline but . . . I'm old . . . forgetful . . . didn't think of it, does that make me a dumbass? - don't answer that.

 

I have no real personal experience with fuel additives for piston top cleaning. I always have new parts to work with. But your long drives might help. The engine needs some good long heat and the "carbon cleaning". A few wide open throttle high speed runs. ????

SeaFoam? Have not heard anything bad about SeaFoam. Keep the data logging going. It really helps to see the systematic troubleshooting progress.

Karl

 

Hello again rusty76!

As far a really good fuel injection cleaner I would suggest B&G 44K as it really does a number cleaning the fuel system. The B&G helps clean out the combustion chamber and can help is there is excessive carbon. I keep a bottle or two on the shelf in my garage as I use it in every one of my family's 10 motor vehicles. I have never had any problems with it and it makes a huge difference after a running a tank of this through any gasoline engine.

If you are really concerned about your throttle body B&G makes a three pack for cleaning the entire fuel system including the throttle body. It is one can of 44K, One can of throttle body spray cleaner and a third can that is sucked into your engines vacuum system.

For internal friction reducing I use Justice Brothers Oil Additive. Yes, there are a lot of naysayers but this additive works.

There is a book titled: How to Understand, Service and Modify CORVETTE Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Management. Author: Charles D. Probst published by Bentley Publishers

This book is a absolute must have if you have issues with your Corvette Fuel injection. It has tons of valuable information in it. The best part is it explains in great detail how the sensors and actuators make our Corvettes run normally.
It covers the following engines: L83, L98, LT1, LT4, LS1, LS6 and the ZR-1's. It is close to 400 pages long but a great book to read and own if you have a Corvette.

Best regards,
Chris

 

Thanks Karl, it'll get it's long drive starting tomorrow. No high speed runs until I get new tires and check the brakes and suspension (new shocks). I've still got the blue tooth dongle hooked up to the ALDL connector so I'm going to take a couple new logs while cruising on the interstate. I'll probably wait till I'm 4 or 5 hours out to take the first one then get a second on the way home. Maybe just for fun I'll turn the A/C off part way through the collection just to see what happens in the log.

 

Thanks Chris, I've seen the B&G 44K mentioned a number of times. I've only seen it on Amazon and Ebay. When I go into a parts store I look for it, haven't found it yet.

I bought a copy of Ben Watson's book on Chevrolet fuel injection based on recommendations here. I'll take a look at the one you suggest.

 

I think we rented a boroscope a couple years ago from Autozone. 2 ways to do this. Get a boroscope and see if you have high spots or just a flat black surface. If you have a flat black surface and want to feel good, any of the snake oils will make a puff of smoke and you now can have the placebo effect and feel the car is running at the apex of performance. That or actually look and see if the problem you are trying to correct is in the cylinders or in your head.

The TB is really easy to clean. Take the top plate off, take the IAC off, take the IAC housing off and clean it all with brake cleaner instead of relying on some snake oil "cleaner in a can" to get into all the nooks and crannies. At the same time, do the Coolant bypass mod.

If your injectors are Multec, run whatever snake oil you want. The new ones will be better since the coils will be fuel cooled and a TSB warns that it is unacceptable to solvents. Ethanol is an issue so unless you want to hobble yourself and stay with a few gas stations, get the Bosch 3 design and you can fuel up wherever you please. I send mine out every so often for checking and cleaning but if you are in doubt, send it off. At the worst case, you have new injector filter baskets that are clean instead of hoping the snake oil can dissolve everything caught in the mesh.

 

I know my injectors were installed new by the PO in 2015 but I don't know the brand or anything else about them. I've seen references to the coolant bypass here before, I'll have to read more about it before I tear into the intake.

I'm leaving on my trip in about 10 minutes. I'll put 7 to 8 hundred miles on it by Sunday. I'll take 2 or 3 new data logs at various points which I'll post here just so's you guys have something to look at.

 

Any way to ask him what exactly they are? Here is the problem I see. Without knowing what you have, all you got is "I have injectors". If they are larger or smaller than they should be (not sure what the significant number is), there can be an issue. Some idiots think "I'll make 20HP more if I have larger injectors than stock". Some get some cheap junk parts from a junkyard, slap a coat of paint and call it good. If say, RC Engineering, FIC, or some other reputable company produced them and said they are stock size, I'm good.

The datalogs might hint at where you should look though.

 

I've given thought to trying to get hold of the PO. I haven't decided yet whether I will or not. In each case I think I might be better off to just inspect and/or replace stuff I've thought about asking about. As soon as the roads get salted for the first time the 'vette will go up on jack stands for the winter. First thing up is the intake manifold. Once I have the injectors off I can get a look at them, try to figure out what they are. If I can't identify them then maybe the PO.

 

There may be numbers on the side like XXX XXX XX XX so thst may be a way to identify it.

 

Thanks Aklim. it'll be interesting to see what the PO installed. I got the impression, dealing with him, that he's a top-shelf kinda guy. What he put on for the optispark and injectors should tell me if I'm right or not.

 

https://motorwestperformance.com/fue...tes-and-specs/

https://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php

Here are some Bosch numbers. Actually, any numbers might help.

As to what he puts on for the Opti and Injectors, it would be hard to say what sort of guy he is. I don't expect you to put on top shelf stuff when you are about to sell the car. I have known of people that would do a trans flush to impress the new buyer AND CHEAP OUT ON THE FILTER since you won't be able to check it. So if he was planning to keep it and had an expected issue (say wife got knocked up, divorced, etc), sure. If he was able to take his time and sell it, hard to say. I dump all filters and fluids from a "new to me used car".

 

I know what you're saying is true but he did these replacements in 2015. I think this guy's issue is he had too many toys, the 'vette was the least desirable and he knew he was getting behind on maintenance which is why I have a long list of work to do on it this winter. I just got back last night from a trip across PA (I-80) and back. I may have to add a couple more items to my list.

 

I ran the car across I-80 from NJ to western PA and back this past weekend about 320 miles each direction. I took 4 logs which I've attached here for your entertainment.

The first log was taken on the way over last Thursday. It was a cool day so I was running with the A/C OFF.

The others were recorded on 9/29 on the way home. I was using the cruise control when possible though, as always, there were times when I had to kick it off due to traffic.

A few times on the way home I gave it more throttle to see if I could make it knock. I don't see that there were any knock sensor entries on any of the logs.

At one point, in one particular section where I've never known the police to clock cars, I ran it up to about 100 just to see what was what. I ran fine but I've got to resolve some vibration issues most of which are probably being caused by the damaged right front wheel.

Several times I had to get on the brakes hard and there is a heavy pulsation so brakes are going to get done this winter.

 

Looks great. The data looks like a nice running engine when cruising. How did she feel?

Karl

 

Feels like a totally different car when I turn the climate control to vent (no A/C compressor cycling) and turn off the ASR, It's a pleasure to drive. Now that I understand what's happening I can run the climate control on Auto and not worry about what I'm feeling. Though I don't like the feel of that constantly cycling compressor clutch I can live with it knowing there's nothing wrong.

Little did I know, when I started this thread, that the thing that needed fixed was my perception.