Dana 36 Swap
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From: Olympia, WA
Dana 36 Swap
Hello,
Does anyone know if I need to remove the exhaust to swap out a dana 36 2.59 for a dana 36 3.54 (the whole pumpkin)? Or, can I just remove the c-beam, remove the driveshaft, unbolt the rear from the batwing? 96 C4 LT1 A4
Also, is it a good idea do add a drain plug at the same time???
Thanks
Does anyone know if I need to remove the exhaust to swap out a dana 36 2.59 for a dana 36 3.54 (the whole pumpkin)? Or, can I just remove the c-beam, remove the driveshaft, unbolt the rear from the batwing? 96 C4 LT1 A4
Also, is it a good idea do add a drain plug at the same time???
Thanks
Last edited by jakey1999; Aug 4, 2019 at 02:34 PM.
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If you look under the car from the back, you'll see there is no way to remove any of that stuff without removing the exhaust. Good idea to drill and tap for a drainplug. I did it to my 44.
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From: Olympia, WA
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From: Olympia, WA
Hey, on a scale 1 to 10 (hardest) how difficult is it to remove the exhaust? I'm trying to decide if I can do it or if I should have it done. My tech skills are probably a 2 or 3. I could probably get it a couple feet off the ground with wheel boots/shoes. Thanks.
Last edited by jakey1999; Aug 5, 2019 at 06:25 PM.
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From: Olympia, WA
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From: Olympia, WA
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When I do this sort of thing, I make sure I have a guy on call to help me out if I get into a mess which has happened a time or two or three.
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Yep never done this before, exhaust or diff, so a bit nervous about the results.
Do your research, have the right tools, DON'T EVER put yourself in a pinch point and make sure you ALWAYS have the car supported, even redundantly.
You will be fine. The biggest impediment is self-doubt.
If you don't have the right tools though, don't start until you do. If acquiring the tools costs more than paying someone to do the job, first though determine if buying the tools will pay off in the long run.
Last edited by drcook; Aug 6, 2019 at 08:24 PM.
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From: Olympia, WA
I was 22 years old and never took a Corvette apart. I took the suspension down to the frame, including the differential, the swing arms, front a-arm, everything. Pulled the heads, and put it all back together.
Do your research, have the right tools, DON'T EVER put yourself in a pinch point and make sure you ALWAYS have the car supported, even redundantly.
You will be fine. The biggest impediment is self-doubt.
If you don't have the right tools though, don't start until you do. If acquiring the tools costs more than paying someone to do the job, first though determine if buying the tools will pay off in the long run.
Do your research, have the right tools, DON'T EVER put yourself in a pinch point and make sure you ALWAYS have the car supported, even redundantly.
You will be fine. The biggest impediment is self-doubt.
If you don't have the right tools though, don't start until you do. If acquiring the tools costs more than paying someone to do the job, first though determine if buying the tools will pay off in the long run.
I've done a little jacking and can probably get the car about 3 feet off the ground with wheel cribs. Also, thinking I'll need 4 tall floor jacks for backup. Other than that, can't think of anything else I will need.
The diff is on the way and Alex @ performance.com is sending me a corrected PCM.
Thanks everyone.
Last edited by jakey1999; Aug 7, 2019 at 05:07 PM.
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I did mine in the garage with the car on 4 jackstands. Wasn't a bad job but I wasn't in a hurry. Corrected my speedo with a cheap Hypertech programmer I got off of Ebay. I had more trouble fishing out the C-beam than the exhaust. Not really hard, just tight spaces to work in.
Last edited by Polo Vert; Aug 6, 2019 at 11:59 PM.
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It sounds like I need need to scribe the alignment of the driveshaft before removing, but I haven't found much info regarding the half shafts. Does anyone know if they also need to be scribbled to realign? thanks.
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My suggestion on the half shafts it to mark them Driver vs Passenger side and Inboard end vs Outboard end