Hi Everyone,

I have been sifting through old threads gaining as much knowledge as possible. I am going to be replacing the entire stock system, head unit as well as all speakers and wires. I was wondering if anyone has ever made a step by step walk through of this. Any information would be greatly appreciated

 

Just did this to mine...Had no head unit when I got her but all speakers were still there.
I just replaced the front door speakers with 4" kickers using the Bose boxes and ran new speaker wires as it was fairly easy I thought, but had to pull door apart and remove the box to get the Amp out and to run new wires from door side into the car. I cut the plug for the speakers at the head unit and soldered the new wires to it as I got a GM harness off ebay for my new Head Unit and being in Australia can't find a new one to use. If you do this you'll have to cut one negative wire for the speakers as they use one pin on the connector and just use the power wire for the amp for the speaker...seems to work ok, you'll see what I mean once you pull it apart.

For the rear I put in 6x9's and thought I'd use the original speaker wire and see how it went as there are a few threads saying don't use it and a few saying you can without a Amp, it sounds fine to me. Any way remove the old Bose box with speaker in it and you'll be left with a plastic 6x9 size mount. I cut some MDF to "fill" in the tray, screwed that to the plastic from the back and mounted the speakers screwing them to the front. Need to trim the carpet, but works fine. I ran no Amp or Sub and happy with the sound.

As the Factory Head unit is a 1.5 DIN size, I bought a single DIN adapter off ebay and had to make up two L shaped brackets to mount it as I had nothing there to use from the factory unit. Bit fiddly but doable, still needs some adjusting as it sticks out too far (5mm) so have to trim it. I have 0 stereo install experience and managed to pull it off. Pretty much got all my info off this site.

Good luck.

 

Thank you for the info Willow. Does anyone have any tips on speaker mounts, harnesses and running new wire. Going to be running component 5.25's up front and component 6x9's in the rear

 

Also, will a double din head unit fit in a 1992 C4 coupe with some modifications or am I limited to a single din?

 

Running new wire is easy if you do it in conjunction with laying sound insulation and/or new carpet! Otherwise, you should keep in mind there IS speaker wire already running from the head unit to the speakers. (Not as sure on later models...but assume this is the same...in lieu of a remote amp?)

On my 89, I pulled the front boxes (which isn't an easy feat) and removed remote amp...then used existing wiring to reuse .. and power the OEM bose speakers. Obviously, you'll need multiple new wire if you're using active crossovers with multiple channel/amps. This also makes a difference -- by year -- but I pulled the upper dash top, modified the dummy speaker grills and mounted 4x6 (IIRC) up there. With the top popped, it wasn't hard to run wires for these.

In the back, I'm not sure you need components...and that they are already set up for 6x9 mounts? Many would argue the "sound stage" should be in front of you AND it's difficult to hear high range frequencies behind you -- due to the anatomy of our hearing.

Year of car kinda matters for details ... not a lot ... but it can. If you really don't want to go under carpet, you could always route through the floor, down the frame rail (or under rocker panels) ... then come back up to get to the rear. I did this to mount my amp in the rear. It's been awhile so I can't remember for sure...but I think there were tubes/plugs to get back up (into) the rear cabin...at the speakers.

Edit: I see you just posted the year. That helps!

 

Crutchfield.

 

Some great feedback here fellas. So components in the back are a big no go? Also, is sound deadening going to make a huge difference in road noise in these vehicles? From start to finish, including sound deadening how long roughly does this project take to complete

 

Just started a carpet replace/sound mat with heat absorber project on my '88 vert. I also started a stereo replace last year (finishing it up this year) and will be adding a 4 channel amp (probably mounted behind pass seat) then running the wires under the sound mat. Hardest thing so far has been removing the damn breadbox! I put Infinity
6" reference speakers in the door and 6x9's in the rear. Believe the soundmat will help the stereo as well as cut down on the drone.

I reused the stock speaker wires, clipping the braided ground wire from behind the OEM plug and re-arranged 2 wires I believe to make the circuit correct.
I'll also be installing hushboxes behind each speaker (a foam surround that you just put in place and then when you screw your speakers in, it'll hold that in place.

I've seen that you can get a headunit that has a pop-out 7" touchscreen if that's what you're looking for.

Good luck with your project!

 

y take it out? you can repair all you speaker amps and replace your main amp if necessary. and keep the original system and the stock look in tact. you just devaluate whatever value is left in your car. in my caze i have a 93 ruby ragtop that i restored the car is near perfect and the bose gold system cranks
either way good luck

 

Why replace all the wires? The Bose speakers all had two pair going to each speaker. One pair is for power and the second is the audio. I replaced my speakers and stereo but used the existing wiring to make it easier.

Crutchfield is a great resource as well! I bought all my parts from them.

 

Thank you everyone for the responses. A ton of great info there. I do have two additional questions, is there enough space in the front for 6.5 inch components (while keeping the stock look). Also, in the rear I have seen others using 8 inch subs while keeping the stock look. Is there enough depth for full size 8's or will they have to be shallow mounts? Thanks as always

 

Beautiful C4 you have there. I am dead set on having a more modern head unit and more power coming out of the speakers.

 

Is it possible to use these speaker wires if I am going to be running an amp? I read they are very thin and it is not advised to use them if replacing all speakers and running an amp

 

Anyone?

 

I'm sure you could fit 6.5's with a "stock look" but it will take some fabrication.

I don't believe that depth is a problem for 8's in the rear. Just width, it will be a tight fit.

 

I would think you could get most of it done in a work-filled weekend. Certainly, have the car drivable...if it's your main mode of transportation. By the same token, you could see things you want to do/refresh while "in there". So, it could take longer.

Components (in the rear) aren't necessarily a "big no go"...they just benefit you a big less. In general, components with active crossover and multiple amps gets you the cleanest/loudest sound. In my car (prior to the vette), I put piezo tweeters in the side panels just behind your ears. I used the earpiece from an old dial telephone to drill a nice pattern through the plastic. Then mounted them behind those plastic panels. I could DEFINITELY hear those speakers...as well as the giant floor-mounted vent-loaded DVC woofer -- driven by two amps. It was like a rock concert in the car. So loud, an ambulance/cop could be behind me and not be heard. At extremely high volumes, I think sound direction is a big less of an issue. There was sound EVERYWHERE!

In this "era", I took the rock concert indoors...leveraging everything I learned from that car stereo "build". I didn't use as many amps (2 vs 4), and decided to settle for rational-let's-hear-the-emergency-vehicles-sound-levels! LOL I also decided to listen to the "experts" who advise you to build a cohesive "sound stage". That means building the stereo "image" in front of you -- just like a sound stage would be. Having high-frequencies coming from behind you doesn't match reality...And, I previously stated, they are harder to hear because your ears "face forward". I guess I'm saying it depends on your design goal whether components (especially in the rear) will be beneficial. Or...if it even makes sense to put ANY sound frequencies -- in the back -- other than non-directional low-frequencies? I just gave you a reason to go either direction....cohesive sound stage versus all-out volume...with sonic clarity. (Clarity and imaging are two different things!)

The biggest disadvantage in the Vette versus my (prior) Daytona is woofer space. In the Daytona, I built a baffle in the spare-tire "well". It allowed for a 12" woofer that hit HARD. In the Corvette, you need to either build a box OR use one/both storage bins (in the back) as woofer enclosures. I've seen it and heard it. The results are similar to what I had before. I just like retaining the storage bins...so I SQUEEZED 8" DVC woofers in the OEM rear location -- with baffles I cut from MDF. Low, hard-hitting bass isn't as good but bass...in a small closed-in car gets muddy anyway. Not enough length/area for proper sound wave formation.

Whether in a car or in a home, I think having a 10-band EQ can really help tailor the sound. Otherwise, you can do some things with passive crossovers -- to "sooth" the results. Personally, I like to remove some midrange in order to enhance the rest....especially boomy upper bass. You can also accomplish this by how components "overlap" each other. Or...which speaker carries specific frequencies.

Designing a sound system for a car is as much shooting from the hip as anything. Prefabbed coaxial/triaxial speakers help make this easier...as do pre-matched components.

Later model (LT1 cars) have higher-power OEM amps than their predecessors. As such, the factory system may produce enough sound to be satisfying w/o your roof installed. (Ironically, I don't pull the roof as much after the sound system install...because I scored a clear top. I get the benefits of the sun, 1" extra headroom, and a quieter "sound studio". OTOH, I also installed a 383...which provides the best sounds yet! LOL)

I think sound insulation will be worth the time/effort. Also, take your time to make sure everything is remounted in a secure manner...to reduce/eliminate the deluge of factory squeaks/rattles often heard in everyday driving. Even more than the insulation, I think that helps with interior sound quality!

Have fun!

 

Says you reside in the US and your gender is male. So what C4 are we talking about? Wish they made it so new people fill in a little more info. Not like someone is going to come knocking on your door at 3am.

That said, IDK about the earlier years but I can tell you for a 91, it is simple or not depending on what you want to do. If all I need is a radio, the choices are plenty. Budget? That is HUGE. What skills do you bring to the table? How willing are you to play circus contortionist? Those all factor in. Also what is the goal of this piece of electronics? Are you going to be a audiophile? If so, I don't know if you will be happy with the acoustics so it might be money wasted. OTOH, if all you want is a radio making sound, that's easy.

In my 91, I don't care for excellent sound so basically, it doesn't have to be too expensive. Bought 2 front enclosures and 2 rear. Bought the speaker bracket for the Non-Bose and simply outfitted speakers as though they were Non-Bose. Had Best Buy run wire for it from the head unit to the rear and front speakers. Leave an extra foot of wire and I will make the fine connections. Head unit? any single din works since I am not that picky on having perfect sound. Got the right harness from Crutchfield and life was good.

 

I also wondered that...then noticed the OP told us in post #4.

 

Then he can remove the fronts like THIS and the rears will be self explanatory. Get Non-bose speaker enclosures, rewire and he would be good to to with whatever Crutchfield recommends for a non-Bose system unless he wants to put other stuff in it.

 

Thanks for this amazing write up Greg. A ton of useful information in here