What is special about the harmonic balancer that you get with the vortech kit, and can someone show me a pic of theirs if it's special?

 

Well,since I am the first to send you a reply,Here go's.
The factory cast iron ballancer is not designed to hold up to the extra force
that is needed to turn the supercharger and all the other stuff.
Trust me on this one.I just broke my stock one in to three peices!
The extra force on the base of it was enough to break it at the retainer and pretty much destroy mt timming cover and the front seal.
You should run a good steel one or a S F I approved one like the Fluid damper.
Spend the money sooner than later.

 

thanks


[Modified by BAdAzZV8, 12:57 AM 12/10/2002]

 

BadAzz,

Sorry for the tardy response. The Vortech balancer is a 7 inch Aluminum ( I think mine actually came from Carrol supercharging) It looks like its CNC'd with 8 ribs in the rear for my Vortech V1 and the standard ribs ofr the accessories on the car. As above entioned... go with an approved balancer you'll be fine.. If you need a Pic I could take one for you...

Mo

 

If you wouldn't mind, I would like to see a pic.

Also what kind of tuning are you using(custom or shop)?


[Modified by BAdAzZV8, 12:56 AM 12/10/2002]

 

Hey, Badazz,

I emailed you the pics...

I installed and tuned myself, usung autotap and lt1 edit. The trans I had AAmco rebuild to my specs. Dang 3.73's I can't lock up with my 3.07's I'm looking to either add weight to the rear and or go to 315 35's is that what you are running?

I'm also by MAF calculations inducting around 766 peak and average of 722 CFM the rough calculations is 1.5 HP per CFM so I'm hitting average of around 490 and one run in the morning car still fairly cool 513 HP

If you are considering the vortech solution let me know...

Mo

 

First let me say that I appreciate your responses.

And yes, I already have the vortech kit sitting in my house, and I have FMS 30# injectors, and a walbro 255lph fuel pump. I will also have the fmu that comes with the vortech kit, and the inline t-rex fuel pump. So I feel I have all my fuel worked out.

I would also like to know if you had to actually move anything with the a/c accumulator, and the coolant lines. Did you use the supplied aluminum bends for the coolant relocation, and did you move the accumulator(and if so, can you send me a pic of the engine bay with where it is positioned)? The reason I ask is that I think that it may fit without these things, I just don't want to be wrong and have to take stuff apart again.

Also what tables did you use to tune your car with in lt1 edit? I am using tunercat, but they're essentially the same. Also can you send me your lt1edit file, so I can check out some of your program aspects?


Oh, and I am actually running 3.73 gears, but only have 285 tires.


[Modified by BAdAzZV8, 12:57 AM 12/10/2002]

 

I am not sure the info posted was entirely clear. I have the Vortech LT1 S/C kit, and the balancer is modified from a stock balancer; thie "stronger" stuff is not the case for my setup. The balancer is cast iron, with the modified section being aluminum. Make no mistake; the balancer starts life as a sock unit (at least it did on my car).

Remember that on the LT1, the balancer and hub are separate; the hub is the three-eared part that bolts to the crank snout, the balancer is the ring that bolts to the hub. The only mod to the balancer for the Vortech kit is the addition of a ribbed "pulley" section to drive the S/C. Normally, only part of the balancer is ribbed to drive the accessories. An extra section is added and ribbed for the blower. If you want to run bigger boost, Auto Specialties can modify the balancer still more to increase the drive diameter and set it up for 8 ribs (you will also have to send in some of your brackets and idler pulleys). I have this mod to my car, which is essential to run high impeller rpms for bigger boost without belt slippage.

Finally, consider having your hub machined for a woodruff key. The stock hub is not keyed and can spion on the crank snout, especially with big boost. CNC in Florida can handle this easlily.


[Modified by kverges, 9:42 AM 12/10/2002]

 

Badazz,

Yes I had to move my accumulator it is almost center and infront of the of the crossmember very close to one of the cooling fan motors. I suggest using the bends as they will help in protecting your hoses in theose general areas a lot of heat will eventually make them brittle.

In LT1 edit I'm primarily adjusting the ignition timing around 90-100 KPA and the enrichment tables. Based on using my autotap to see what the O2's are doing and seeing what the spark knock is doing . I also went a step colder with the plugs TR-3 NGK's...

Kverges,
Yes you are correct I'm still using the stock cast 3 prong hub, however I believe ( I bought the supercharger second hand) the actual crank pulley is from Carrol Supercharging as it is completely aluminum. So there is a possiblity that the actual Vortech pulley may be different, I only had to go with what I have. I did not go the keyed route as I'm only running about 8 pounds of boost. It is 8 ribbed on the SC portion of the pulley, As you know finding a belt is a completely different story. I'm having to run 7 :(

mo

 

Well I am only going to be running 6psi, so no big boost for me. Where did you get your balancers, and how much werer they?

Oh, and I know the hub and balancer are two separate pieces, I had to take the balancer off when i changed the opti. :U


[Modified by BAdAzZV8, 12:49 PM 12/10/2002]

 

The balancer was included in my Vortech S/C kit; so I can't tell you what it would cost by itself. Auto Specialties might be able to supply the whole thing, as could Vortech. Having a new balancer is one of the reasons the LT1 S/C kit is more than the simple Mustang kits.

 

My good deed for the month!~!~!~

Forget about the inline pump. It's more of a restriction then a help.

Use a key in the crank. You will spin the pulley. It will happen. Yes, it really will. Fix it now.

Have a happy Holiday Season

 

what key do you speak of?

And are you sure the inline pump doesn't help

 

OK, think I blew up my balancer.... Vortech kit on a 92. What do I replace it with? I'm running 8lbs+....

 

listen to those know what they are talking about. Get the keyed hub, only cost $131 from moreperformance. Even if your running 8psi and you are still risking to spin the loose and will possibly do damage the crank snout. On the crank hub, all it has is a one single 7/16 bolt, bolt it to the crank. I strongly suggest a keyed hub.

Bruce

 

Doesn't the crank need to get yanked to cut it for the key? Will that mess up the balance?

 

the crank is already has a key and key way. The stock hub don't have a keyway. The keyed hub (they put a keyway on the hub so that it will mate with the crank's key that is how they cannot be spin.

Bruce

 

The crank is already keyed, but teh stock hub isn't?? crazy.

So I can buy a keyed hub with a key and stick it on? wow... what was that part number....

 

vortech charges a little over $700 for the balancer. Mine was damaged in shipping and i had to check prices.

 

Holy !@#$@#$. $700 balancer? That's nuts. I've found an ATI for $400.

Is it possible to just get a new hub and move my existing vortech pulley/balancer over?