1985 Will not start continued
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION ! ! Testing Purpose ONLY Fire Extinguisher Near by
You could use a clip lead across the oil switch to keep the fuel pump running until the engine starts.
This defeats the safety aspect of the system. So don't leave it on and drive.
Don
You could use a clip lead across the oil switch to keep the fuel pump running until the engine starts.
This defeats the safety aspect of the system. So don't leave it on and drive.
Don
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 48
This si such a great idea. Like you say. It is just to see if the car will run. It still surprises me that the oil pressure switch has power and the other two wires do not. I am going to take the harness apart and see if I can find the fusible link. Thank you for the idea.
Joe
Joe
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Tearing your harness apart to look for a fusible link is a terrible idea!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 48
Nice thought. Last Sunday we set up the distributor.
Spun the motor
#1 plug out
Valve cover off
Got TDC
Put distributor in on number 1
Moved motor by had
Exhaust valve started to open
So I know I am on compression stroke
Tested fuses no power at fuel pump fuse
No power at ALCL
That is why I thought the fp is not getting power But when I turn on the car I have fuel pressure
Spun the motor
#1 plug out
Valve cover off
Got TDC
Put distributor in on number 1
Moved motor by had
Exhaust valve started to open
So I know I am on compression stroke
Tested fuses no power at fuel pump fuse
No power at ALCL
That is why I thought the fp is not getting power But when I turn on the car I have fuel pressure
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 48
Are you still talking about your fuel pump, or did I miss something? If you're still not convinced that your fuel pump is working, you are ignoring good advice!!! Blue95 gave you the right answer in post 15. Don't ignore his advice.
I am not ignoring his advice. using the power to the oil pressure switch is a great idea.
Definetly going to do it. It will save me a lot of time. One jumper and I can be sure the fp has power
I gave you the facts about your fuel pump fuse in post 20. If you don't believe me, look at your FSM, pg. 838!!! The fuse IS AFTER the relay and the oil pressure switch, whether that makes sense to you or not!!!
Please don't yell at me. I am trying to learn this.
When I turn on the key I can hear the FP run. But, I did not know if that meant the FP would run during the start process.
If you want further proof, stick one end of a hose into the filler of your fuel tank, with the other end of the hose to your ear, then turn on the ignition. No fire extinguisher required!!!
Where is the fusible link that supplies the ALCL with power. At the starter? I think I need that to work for the car to run.
The previous owner ran a wire from the battery to the fuel injectors. I do not know what other wires he has by passed. Just trying to figure out what burned out that is keeping the car from running.
It was running poorly. I had to let it sit because one of the injectors was not working. Put it back together and now not running.
Thank you for your help and patience
Tearing your harness apart to look for a fusible link is a terrible idea!
I am not ignoring his advice. using the power to the oil pressure switch is a great idea.
Definetly going to do it. It will save me a lot of time. One jumper and I can be sure the fp has power
I gave you the facts about your fuel pump fuse in post 20. If you don't believe me, look at your FSM, pg. 838!!! The fuse IS AFTER the relay and the oil pressure switch, whether that makes sense to you or not!!!
Please don't yell at me. I am trying to learn this.
When I turn on the key I can hear the FP run. But, I did not know if that meant the FP would run during the start process.
If you want further proof, stick one end of a hose into the filler of your fuel tank, with the other end of the hose to your ear, then turn on the ignition. No fire extinguisher required!!!
Where is the fusible link that supplies the ALCL with power. At the starter? I think I need that to work for the car to run.
The previous owner ran a wire from the battery to the fuel injectors. I do not know what other wires he has by passed. Just trying to figure out what burned out that is keeping the car from running.
It was running poorly. I had to let it sit because one of the injectors was not working. Put it back together and now not running.
Thank you for your help and patience
Tearing your harness apart to look for a fusible link is a terrible idea!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
At TDC on the #1 compression stroke, you should be able to wiggle both rocker arms of the #1 cylinder. Try it! If both rocker covers are off, try wiggling the rocker arms of #6. If the RH rocker cover isn't off, try rotating the engine one revolution, then wiggle the rocker arms of the #1 cyl. again. Notice the difference? You're now at TDC for the #1 cyl!!! Your distributor rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug.
Tested fuses no power at fuel pump fuse.
No power at ALCL
That is why I thought the fp is not getting power But when I turn on the car I have fuel pressure
No power at ALCL
That is why I thought the fp is not getting power But when I turn on the car I have fuel pressure
I'm done.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 60
From: ft myers FL/Munising MI
Don,
Oh, I thought that the FP went on for 2 seconds and then when the car is on the FP would have power for as long as the key is on. Okay so I do get fuel pressure. Therefore the fuse is working, correct?
But the ALCL is not getting an power at terminals A and E. And I think A has something to do with the FP. What does not make sense to me is the oil pressure switch is getting power. The ALCL and oil pressure switch are on the same fusible link, according to the FSM page 838.
Thank you for the help. It makes sense.
Now I have to find the link or run a fused wire to the ALCL terminals A and E and see if the car will run.
Thank you again
Joe
Oh, I thought that the FP went on for 2 seconds and then when the car is on the FP would have power for as long as the key is on. Okay so I do get fuel pressure. Therefore the fuse is working, correct?
But the ALCL is not getting an power at terminals A and E. And I think A has something to do with the FP. What does not make sense to me is the oil pressure switch is getting power. The ALCL and oil pressure switch are on the same fusible link, according to the FSM page 838.
Thank you for the help. It makes sense.
Now I have to find the link or run a fused wire to the ALCL terminals A and E and see if the car will run.
Thank you again
Joe
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 48
At TDC on the #1 compression stroke, you should be able to wiggle both rocker arms of the #1 cylinder. Try it! If both rocker covers are off, try wiggling the rocker arms of #6. If the RH rocker cover isn't off, try rotating the engine one revolution, then wiggle the rocker arms of the #1 cyl. again. Notice the difference? You're now at TDC for the #1 cyl!!! Your distributor rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug.
I did check the distributor position one more time.
Spun the engine got my WHOOOSH.
Both valves are closed and the rocker arms are a little loose
The rotor is on number 1
I spin the motor and the exhaust valve opens as the rotor approaches number 6.
So I believe I am correct
We started the car for a few seconds. It is flooding the plugs. I have an adjustable FP regulator. What reduces the amount of fuel. Screw up or screw down, thank you
Then the Rock Auto Cap crapped out. Plugs are flooded.
I think if I get a new cap it should run.
My obsession with the FP is that the wires to terminal A and E on the ALCL have no power. even though the oil pressure switch wire does. They all come through the same fusible link. The wires on the starter are hot.
Does the ALCL wires have to have power for the car to run correctly.
Thank you all.
I did check the distributor position one more time.
Spun the engine got my WHOOOSH.
Both valves are closed and the rocker arms are a little loose
The rotor is on number 1
I spin the motor and the exhaust valve opens as the rotor approaches number 6.
So I believe I am correct
We started the car for a few seconds. It is flooding the plugs. I have an adjustable FP regulator. What reduces the amount of fuel. Screw up or screw down, thank you
Then the Rock Auto Cap crapped out. Plugs are flooded.
I think if I get a new cap it should run.
My obsession with the FP is that the wires to terminal A and E on the ALCL have no power. even though the oil pressure switch wire does. They all come through the same fusible link. The wires on the starter are hot.
Does the ALCL wires have to have power for the car to run correctly.
Thank you all.
Quote:
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 48
So I replaced the distributor cap $63.00 on Guam and placed the engine on number one. Plugs in and wires in correct position. Hit the key and it fired up. Stalled within seconds. We had one more successful start. The car is flooding the cylinders with gas. It stinks of gas. But it did fire up.
Connected to the battery is a fused wire that has something to do with the fuel injectors. Because when I first tried to run the car I forgot to connect that wire and the car did not start. When I connected it the car started and ran, very rich black plugs. I am going to use the FSM and see if I can determine what they did.
Wish me luck
Connected to the battery is a fused wire that has something to do with the fuel injectors. Because when I first tried to run the car I forgot to connect that wire and the car did not start. When I connected it the car started and ran, very rich black plugs. I am going to use the FSM and see if I can determine what they did.
Wish me luck