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My 91 base coupe suddenly will not crank. All the lights, radio etc come on fine, but the starter will not even "click". Any suggestions on where to start to fix this?
I am new to this technology. The last car I worked on was a 71 Camaro about 35 years ago. I am just learning how to get and interpret codes. Will all the dash functions work if I have a VATS problem?
Battery. You need to check the battery. The "no click" means that you don't even have enough juice to flick the relay. I'd check that first and then go from there.
Last edited by billschroeder5842; Sep 14, 2019 at 03:25 PM.
Check your battery for its voltage and be sure it is fully charged up. I would do a visual on the battery connections (both) and the battery cable at the starter motor. If the battery voltage is anywhere near 12 volts or less then charge it completely before trying to use it again.
Does your key have a resistor chip in it? I had to install a part that eliminates the key chip to get rid of intermittent problems. You need to see if the car will start normally when the battery doesn't go "Click". Charge it up completely and try starting the car again. Are there any flashing lights on your information center?
If you have one of the remote starter buttons handy you might try that on your starter motor to see if it turns over with that. This would eliminate the starter as being bad.
Most likely it will be the battery as they like to fail regularly. The battery can loose lead on the plates which then falls to the bottom of the battery shorting out the cells internally. In worse case scenarios the battery can even exploded after a internal short. Any time I have problems that are battery related I like to eliminate the battery as a suspect before digging to far. I would be sure it has sufficient electrolyte and that it has been fully charged and has clean lead terminals ready for action.
I have seen enough corrosion on a batteries terminals to make it not able to start the engine. It has also occurred at the starter where corrosion gets in between the electrical contacts.
Batteries left on some cheaper variety of battery tenders can actually dry out the battery by boiling the electrolyte out of the battery. A battery with no electrolyte is useless and an expensive waste of money. I am not a big battery tender supporter, I use a 4 stage battery charger to ensure that I am charging my batteries completely.
Thanks to all for the input. This battery is only a few months old, but I will check it out anyway. I have been trying to find out which VATS chip is in my key, but no one seems to know how to figure it out including my local dealer
I have been trying to find out which VATS chip is in my key, but no one seems to know how to figure it out including my local dealer
Any GM dealer will have a machine that will give you the ohm reading number. You may want to consider (as preventative maintenance) a "pigtail" the will clip into your VATS system and over ride the whole thing. You can get them on line pretty cheap and it takes less than 30 minutes to install.
Any GM dealer parts dept or locksmith should be able to "read" key. VATS is a Theft Deterrent system that disables starter, ignition, and fuel systems. A little overkill. Security light staying on when key is turned to run indicates theft deterrent concern
Okay, so I got the new keys, got them cut and still no love. Battery is good and fully charged. Now I am having an issue with my turn signal switch. I think I may just about have that one figured out. Just for kicks, I tried to start it again. When I turn the key on I get a very rapid clicking sound from the front (engine compartment). When I turn the key to start, I think I am hearing the starter trying to work, but not quite making it.. When I turn the key all the way off, I am still getting a click in the front, almost sounds like it is in the dash.