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Does anybody know if the GM shop manual has the procedure in it? I know I need to buy one anyway but just haven't done it yet.
Any hints, tips, tricks, links, videos, wishes for good luck appreciated. LOL!
did your wife run over a rock like my wife did?
im just about to start mine on my 87. What year is yours?
its not hard, but you do need a way to suspend the engine. or, prop it up from below, and you cant prop all of it up on the oil pan or it will deform the pan.
in my case i built a little gantry using two cubes of 6x6 on the hood latch pedestals (hoop open obviously) and a 4x4 beam across like a bridge over the windshield drip tray. i then replaced the most rearward exhaust manifold bolts with longer bolts and used 4 (2 per side) ratchet straps to suspend the engine strapped from the rear ex manifold bolts up to the gantry. i also included a support under the trans tailshaft housing.
There are surprisingly few bolts holding the cradle on. The hardest one for me to reach was the forward hex bolt on Passenger side engine mount. I was able to get to it using a series of extensions up from the bottom
im just about to start mine on my 87. What year is yours?
its not hard, but you do need a way to suspend the engine. or, prop it up from below, and you cant prop all of it up on the oil pan or it will deform the pan.
in my case i built a little gantry using two cubes of 6x6 on the hood latch pedestals (hoop open obviously) and a 4x4 beam across like a bridge over the windshield drip tray. i then replaced the most rearward exhaust manifold bolts with longer bolts and used 4 (2 per side) ratchet straps to suspend the engine strapped from the rear ex manifold bolts up to the gantry. i also included a support under the trans tailshaft housing.
There are surprisingly few bolts holding the cradle on. The hardest one for me to reach was the forward hex bolt on Passenger side engine mount. I was able to get to it using a series of extensions up from the bottom
Mine was actually my doing. I pulled off the road to get some paperwork together that had come lose and was blowing around the inside. Didn't see a culvert that was overgrown with grass. Stopped about 20 feet sooner than I intended.
Mine is an 85.
I was thinking of propping up at the sides of the pan and then using ratchet straps under the engine but I wasn't sure how yet. Thanks for the idea. I also thought of buying an engine hoist but I figured the legs from the hoist would be a pain to work around.
It's going to be a learning experience for me. I've never messed with suspension before. But before owning this car I had never replaced a heater core or head gaskets either. So there's that.
Using 5 ton jack stands to get car high as possible will help. Remove suspension pieces before removing crossmember. I would leave rack on crossmember and transfer it to new one off car. Bag upper control are spacer shims. nut and bolt in 4 separate zip loc bags and label location. Car will need alignment checked afterwards. If shims and bolts are in original location alignment should be close, less likely to wear tires until alignment is verified. While apart address worn bushings if necessary. Photos can be helpful during reassembly. I would fab away to support engine from above. Having a "stick" in the way can be a PITA if it gets in the way.
Awesome thanks. Spacers are in original location on driver side. Passenger side I shifted around to try and correct the damage as much as possible. 15sec afterwards I realized I probably should have made note of the original locations. Ooops.
As a newbie to this I find the cell phone is my best friend when doing work. A quick pic of everything I do makes working in reverse much easier. Keeps me from getting everything back together and finding that one forgotten bolt also. LOL!
I have a feeling for the next couple of months my time and expense is going to be spent on the, "While I'm at it" projects. Oil pan needs changed, might as well change break pads while they are off, check bushings like you mentioned, etc. etc. etc. Part of the fun of owning them though right? :-)
Since you are already in process. Lower control arms have spring pressure on them. Be prepared when shocks are unbolted. Floor jack to lower arm after shocks is taken loose recommended.
Since you are already in process. Lower control arms have spring pressure on them. Be prepared when shocks are unbolted. Floor jack to lower arm after shocks is taken loose recommended.
I might have figured that out before I got there. But I might not have either. Thank you!!!
I'm not that far in yet. Next job is to remove the break calipers. That one is easy. I'm waiting for the GM shop manual to come in before I attack to much else. LOL!
Engine Cradle
