1990 front shock replacement
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Discovery Bay CA.
1990 front shock replacement
I have read several threads on shock replacement, but I am unsure if non-Bilstein shocks will still work with the adjustable suspension settings. Is there a sensor that controls the shocks that is specific to Vette?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Discovery Bay CA.
Thanks for the response - since I bought this car a month ago, battery, alternator, tires, OEM hardtop, brackets, little trim pieces, ....Can't really afford to go with the adjustable Bilsteins right away. Do you know if I disconnect the selector, will it give an error code at startup - and can I reinstall the selector shocks in the future and all will be well? Also, I only need to replace the fronts - do I need to disconnect the selector from the backs as well? Love this forum - I try to go to youtube videos first, but not everything is there for a C4.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
Thanks for the response - since I bought this car a month ago, battery, alternator, tires, OEM hardtop, brackets, little trim pieces, ....Can't really afford to go with the adjustable Bilsteins right away. Do you know if I disconnect the selector, will it give an error code at startup - and can I reinstall the selector shocks in the future and all will be well? Also, I only need to replace the fronts - do I need to disconnect the selector from the backs as well? Love this forum - I try to go to youtube videos first, but not everything is there for a C4.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,649
Likes: 863
Again, I believe the selector is held to the top of the shock by a clip. If you were to unclip the selector motor from the shock, and remove the motor from the shock, but leave it hooked up to the electrical connector - there shuld be no error code... You could just zip tie the two selector motors to something handy, and run any shocks you would like.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
Again, I believe the selector is held to the top of the shock by a clip. If you were to unclip the selector motor from the shock, and remove the motor from the shock, but leave it hooked up to the electrical connector - there shuld be no error code... You could just zip tie the two selector motors to something handy, and run any shocks you would like.
http://captainzcnc.com/id2.html
Diagnosis:
One of the first signs that your system is or isn't working properly is the service ride control light on the dashboard.
When the ignition key is turned, the system will do a check to be sure it is working properly. The service ride control light should come on momentarily and then go out if all is well. If the light stays on then the system most likely has problems. If the light doesn't come on during the system check; the bulb may be burned out or a previous owner may have removed the light.
The system retains trouble codes which can be retrieved to help diagnose the problem. Refer to a service manual for the codes and the method of retrieval. Please note that the codes will continue to reset until the problem has been corrected.
One of the first signs that your system is or isn't working properly is the service ride control light on the dashboard.
When the ignition key is turned, the system will do a check to be sure it is working properly. The service ride control light should come on momentarily and then go out if all is well. If the light stays on then the system most likely has problems. If the light doesn't come on during the system check; the bulb may be burned out or a previous owner may have removed the light.
The system retains trouble codes which can be retrieved to help diagnose the problem. Refer to a service manual for the codes and the method of retrieval. Please note that the codes will continue to reset until the problem has been corrected.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 79
Likes: 14
I can confirm due to my recent work on my car that removing and/unplugging the shock actuators does not keep the system from throwing codes. It will only change them. I ran codes with the system plugged in and installed(attached)but not functioning (defective actuators), unplugged but still attached, and removed entirely. Codes changed under the Service Ride Control function/light given the different conditions, but didn't go away.
If there is any interest in my documenting the reinstallation of rebuilt actuators and gears from www.captainzcnc.com (still fixing them!) I will post up here or wherever it seems best. Seems silly to start a new thread when there is 20 or 30 already here covering similar ground.
If there is any interest in my documenting the reinstallation of rebuilt actuators and gears from www.captainzcnc.com (still fixing them!) I will post up here or wherever it seems best. Seems silly to start a new thread when there is 20 or 30 already here covering similar ground.
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Advanced
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 79
Likes: 14
That would certainly address the OP's concerns.
I'm going to see if my repaired front components allow my use of the ride control system. The codes indicated only a problem up front, and I found the plastic gears on the actuators were falling apart and the little gears on the shocks fractured as well. If it works, great...if it still doesn't work and the light is on, I'll unplug the controller, car rides fine without it and I won't miss what I've never had.
I'm going to see if my repaired front components allow my use of the ride control system. The codes indicated only a problem up front, and I found the plastic gears on the actuators were falling apart and the little gears on the shocks fractured as well. If it works, great...if it still doesn't work and the light is on, I'll unplug the controller, car rides fine without it and I won't miss what I've never had.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
If you are too cheap to fix it right or can't afford to, might as well do as you say AND go the distance. Disassemble as much as possible and sell the parts and make a few bucks.
That was what someone did and I got their parts. Bought a car where the PO tried to pull the bulb and not tell me. PDI scan revealed it. My experience has shown that if you assume the PO is stupid or a crook, you will avoid some problems or be compensated for his mess.
That was what someone did and I got their parts. Bought a car where the PO tried to pull the bulb and not tell me. PDI scan revealed it. My experience has shown that if you assume the PO is stupid or a crook, you will avoid some problems or be compensated for his mess.
Last edited by aklim; Nov 21, 2019 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Discovery Bay CA.
Thanks for the replies. The front tires were cupped on the outside and left front shock is leaking slightly. I believe I also need control arm bushings. May have those done first and then replace the shocks this spring after I build up a little more in the "vette fund". Not driving it much at present and most likely won't during the winter months.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 87
Likes: 16
From: Aylmer Ontario
The Bilstein shocks that are part of FX3 are specially designed and valved to work with and accept the adjusters that mount on top of them.
I removed it all because the FX3 system while exotic in the day is in the case of my 1993 car 25 years old and I wanted new shocks all around.
In my case there were no lights on and as far as I could tell it was working properly.
The problem for me, other than like I previously said just wanting new shocks, was that I didn't like the low speed ride of FX3.
The system is designed to work as the speed of the vehicle increases and I found that regardless of the setting selected that at five miles per hour the rear end of the car bobbed up and down.
Took it all off and put on a brand new set of heavy duty Bilsteins and Bob's your uncle.
That said the other outdated and expensive to maintain technology that I have gotten rid of or am in the process of are:
Blows Gold. No more needs to be said.
VATS. A unfriendly technology that daily stops legal owners from starting their vehicle.
Sport seat switches and bladders. Had it all removed when installing new foam and covers. Being a little broad in the beam the wide open setting is perfect.
I removed it all because the FX3 system while exotic in the day is in the case of my 1993 car 25 years old and I wanted new shocks all around.
In my case there were no lights on and as far as I could tell it was working properly.
The problem for me, other than like I previously said just wanting new shocks, was that I didn't like the low speed ride of FX3.
The system is designed to work as the speed of the vehicle increases and I found that regardless of the setting selected that at five miles per hour the rear end of the car bobbed up and down.
Took it all off and put on a brand new set of heavy duty Bilsteins and Bob's your uncle.
That said the other outdated and expensive to maintain technology that I have gotten rid of or am in the process of are:
Blows Gold. No more needs to be said.
VATS. A unfriendly technology that daily stops legal owners from starting their vehicle.
Sport seat switches and bladders. Had it all removed when installing new foam and covers. Being a little broad in the beam the wide open setting is perfect.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
Thanks for the replies. The front tires were cupped on the outside and left front shock is leaking slightly. I believe I also need control arm bushings. May have those done first and then replace the shocks this spring after I build up a little more in the "vette fund". Not driving it much at present and most likely won't during the winter months.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,472
Likes: 3,290
From: Hartford WI
In my case there were no lights on and as far as I could tell it was working properly.
The problem for me, other than like I previously said just wanting new shocks, was that I didn't like the low speed ride of FX3.
The system is designed to work as the speed of the vehicle increases and I found that regardless of the setting selected that at five miles per hour the rear end of the car bobbed up and down.
Took it all off and put on a brand new set of heavy duty Bilsteins and Bob's your uncle.
Blows Gold. No more needs to be said.
VATS. A unfriendly technology that daily stops legal owners from starting their vehicle.
Sport seat switches and bladders. Had it all removed when installing new foam and covers. Being a little broad in the beam the wide open setting is perfect.
The problem for me, other than like I previously said just wanting new shocks, was that I didn't like the low speed ride of FX3.
The system is designed to work as the speed of the vehicle increases and I found that regardless of the setting selected that at five miles per hour the rear end of the car bobbed up and down.
Took it all off and put on a brand new set of heavy duty Bilsteins and Bob's your uncle.
Blows Gold. No more needs to be said.
VATS. A unfriendly technology that daily stops legal owners from starting their vehicle.
Sport seat switches and bladders. Had it all removed when installing new foam and covers. Being a little broad in the beam the wide open setting is perfect.
Not sure that a working Bose was, at least, in my car, as good or better than what I have but I wanted something with newer tech that can charge my phone and have bluetooth. More important to me was that the new design was modular. I don't have to be tied to making it work.
Don't agree with that. My 91 F-body had it as does my 91 Y-body. From 91 till 05, I never had a failure in the F-body. After that the car was totalled so hard to say. My 91 Y-body still has the original VATS so I'm not sure what you are talking about. Vendors have made a fortune selling anti-VATS stuff, it seems, by building the hype. I see a lot of issues where VATS gets blamed. Not as many actual failures.
Does it help if you are smaller framed where it makes it more snug?