Replacing Rear Bilsteins - Ride Height Question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 965
Likes: 28
From: Mt. Pleasant NC
Replacing Rear Bilsteins - Ride Height Question
So I decided to replace the shocks on my 96. Sticking with the original Bilsteins, my question is concerning the rear shocks(non FX3). The fronts were a piece of cake and were done in about a half hours time. Before doing the back, I decided to look ahead. Mostly everyone is saying it cut and dry. Jack car up, swap em out and make sure to torque em right. But I have seen 2 posts with people referring to making sure to keep the ride height the same. I checked my FSM and it said the same thing referring to ride height. Only problem in my situation is I have aftermarket 20” wheels and tires. So my main question is, is this a concern? If so, what would be the correct way to retain proper ride height?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
I wouldn't worry about ride height in regards to shocks. Regular shocks don't support car. Tightening control arms and rods is a different matter.
Last edited by Kevova; Nov 6, 2019 at 02:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 965
Likes: 28
From: Mt. Pleasant NC
Ok, good deal...Everything I was reading was for the most part was swap em out and be done. However there were a couple folks talking about it and the FSM did mention it as well...Didnt wanna pull and oopsie...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,117
Likes: 1,994
From: St. Charles MO
The manual calls for the rear suspension to be held "at proper trim height" and to not be allowed to "move below rebound" when you bolt the upper shock brackets to the frame. I think they just want you to keep the bracket flush with the frame so that you are pulling up the entire suspension by those little bolts as you tighten them.
The lower shock mount has a rubber axial bushing around a steel sleeve, just like control arm bushings. And that inner sleeve is captured on the shoulder of the stud by the nut. So there can be a bit of twist within the bushing. However, unlike control arms that pivot around those bushings, the shock's motion is pretty much up and down, so that it shouldn't put preload on that bushing if it's tightened at full droop. The manual implies that the car should be at ride height when tightening that lower shock mount nut. But I doubt there is much preload happening there.
The lower shock mount has a rubber axial bushing around a steel sleeve, just like control arm bushings. And that inner sleeve is captured on the shoulder of the stud by the nut. So there can be a bit of twist within the bushing. However, unlike control arms that pivot around those bushings, the shock's motion is pretty much up and down, so that it shouldn't put preload on that bushing if it's tightened at full droop. The manual implies that the car should be at ride height when tightening that lower shock mount nut. But I doubt there is much preload happening there.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Nov 6, 2019 at 10:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 965
Likes: 28
From: Mt. Pleasant NC
The manual calls for the rear suspension to be held "at proper trim height" and to not be allowed to "move below rebound" when you bolt the upper shock brackets to the frame. I think they just want you to keep the bracket flush with the frame so that you are pulling up the entire suspension by those little bolts as you tighten them.
The lower shock mount has a rubber axial bushing around a steel sleeve, just like control arm bushings. And that inner sleeve is captured on the shoulder of the stud by the nut. So there can be a bit of twist within the bushing. However, unlike control arms that pivot around those bushings, the shock's motion is pretty much up and down, so that it shouldn't put preload on that bushing if it's tightened at full droop. The manual implies that the car should be at ride height when tightening that lower shock mount nut. But I doubt there is much preload happening there.
The lower shock mount has a rubber axial bushing around a steel sleeve, just like control arm bushings. And that inner sleeve is captured on the shoulder of the stud by the nut. So there can be a bit of twist within the bushing. However, unlike control arms that pivot around those bushings, the shock's motion is pretty much up and down, so that it shouldn't put preload on that bushing if it's tightened at full droop. The manual implies that the car should be at ride height when tightening that lower shock mount nut. But I doubt there is much preload happening there.
Last edited by austinseanchris; Nov 6, 2019 at 10:59 PM.
