Thank you. Is it a hop, skip jump to the US side where you can buy these goodies cheap?

Don't know how to put in what you are wanting.

 

Get this shop manual CD on fleabay which has both the shop manual and electrical troubleshooting. $29.9 + $14.99 shipping to Canada.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1987-Corvette-Shop-Manual-CD-Repair-Service-Books-on-CD-ROM-Chevrolet-Chevy/362489518012?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3A Corvette&hash=item54660f17bc:gj4AAOSwW KtUyU4s

Print copies of the manuals on fleabay . $64.99 + $20.30 shipping to Canada.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Corvet...kAAOSwZy1duyHu

I have both he CD and two print copies for both my 1985 and my 1988 C4. These are mandatory and worth the money if you do any work on your C4.

 

Yes, it would "kick"

 

PROGRESS....STILL WILL NOT START!

So I went to the store to buy a fuel pressure testing gauge and thought I would ask about noid light to purchase or if they rent them....BAM..yes they did rent them, so I rented a noid light kit and bought a fuel pressure testing kit.

I was adamant I had fuel pressure AND no pulse...

TEST 1
FIRST I TESTED THE FUEL PRESSURE AT THE RAILS.... It tested to have between 45 and 50psi on cranking

TEST 2
Noid light test at injectors...YES, IT HAS PULES. I AM VERY SORRY TO EVERYONE WHO SAID A TEST LIGHT WOULDN'T WORK. It does not make sence why it wouldn't work, but it doesn't. SO THE GOOD NEWS IS I HAVE PULSE.

TEST 3
I tested pulse on every single injector plug...THEY ALL HAVE PULSE

TEST 4
I plugged all injectors in and then unplugged on from each side and tested to see if an injector is shorting out. They still pulsed as they should

so knowing engines need 4 essential things, ( spark, Fuel, compression and air) I immediately went back to spark plugs.

TEST 5
I pulled a couple plug wires and tested for spark with a real spark testor ( looks like a spark plug and has a clamp) they spark and you can hear a snap. but they do look orange not blue.

TEST 6
I pulled a couple spark plugs. They do look black. they both were dry at the tips, however the one had fuel on the threads a bit. I tested if they had spark by pluging them back in the spark plug wire and grounding the plug, and it does still spark. but Im going to replace them anyways.

Unfortunately I can not try and start it without help from someone else with fuel down the intake. I do want to try that again, as it has been a while since I have tried that. if it starts like that, either the fuel is bad, or the injectors are bad. ( even though they tested 16.5 ohms)

the fuel was replaced when I changed the fuel pump, so its not bad fuel ( I DON'T THINK) but that is worth looking into as well.

Thought I would give that update, and give a thanks to everyone so far.

 

yes getting somewhere.

u changed the icm. double check timing.

if you removed the distributor to change the icm, i think u need to start with verifying tdc 1in comp stroke then verify you have wires correct.

when i was a huge noob, i stabbed my dizzy off by 180. then off by one tooth. third time i finally got it right and off it went.

 

Should have just named this corvette basket case.

you guys have been extremely patient with me.

please remember I have “tinkered with this car” for about 4 years. But it has sat most of its time being ignored.

so I appreciate what we have concluded so far.

I started to change the spark plugs, and finished the drivers side.

the passenger side is pretty touch to get to. looks like I have to get to them from under the car. So I though “might as well check the oil and do an oil change while I have the car up.”

pulled the dipstick, and that’s only surprise the oil looks not good and exceptionally high.

pretty sure that over the years of attempts to start it, as well as this most recent “dedicated” attemp, it has been dumping fuel into the engine. And the oil is diluted and way too high.

so needless to say, I have drained it and will be replacing it. I probably won’t be working on it much more today.

but here is a pic of the oil 🤮

and the car as it sits right now. With an inch of dust and mud caked on the tires from when it got pushed in my shop 2 years ago.

 

Makes me feel like water in oil?

 

I hope not, and I don't think so. but everything I have said has been wrong. I have seen water in the oil before. and although it does look similar, it does look different. also, in the past, ( on other cars) if water is in the oil and they have been sitting none running a bunch of water will come out of the oil drain plug at first because the water and oil will seperate. also, the coolant level isn't really too low and this oil smells like gas. so fingers are crossed.

still not really sure why this car would have stopped running, and then the oil flooding like that. guess it could be a head gasket.

I will get new oil and a filter and see. I have a coolant pressure tester, as well as a compression tester, so I will use those tools if I need to. if anything is a good thing, at least I am finding stuff that is wrong with the car now. rather than checking things and having them check out ok.

I have to go pick up a car tomorrow morning and will probably pick up oil and a filter then. but probably wont have time to look at it till next week.

you guys have been great and extremely patient. I wont assume anything anymore about this car from my findings in the past. I will check and re check as requested.

 

Holy milkshake batman.

what is the history on this car as far as you know? its clearly been nodified.

 

the history of the car...

Im putting in read because many people are asking. and yeah, the more I think about it, the more I think maybe water. but we will see.

anyways. I bought the car about 4 years ago. I have a cash for cars business, and me being a car guy, I find some pretty cool stuff from time to time...or should I say they find me.

anyways, this guy called me about a corvette he wanted to sell. He said a tonne of work has been done to it. crate motor, NOS, new transmision. but the problem is that the crate engine has too much power. and the TPS system cant handle it. in short, the engine was bench tested with carb, and then installed with a TPI system. he then said the car is currently at a shop and they are quting him $2500 to swap the TPI system to carb. He said the car currently runs and drives, it just doesn't run right.

so I bought it for an agreed price. I have a folder somewhere that has a pile of info about the car. the car always started, however I towed it home with my trailer and I never really drove it much, just around the property. it was sitting outside and in the elements as i didn't have inside storage yet. One day it didnt really want to strat. it did, but I had to play around with the gas peddle, and then it would stall out once in a while. it progressively got worse till it just wouldn't start anymore ( about 4 years ago) over the years I looked up on sites and tinkered with it here and there, but not much at all.

about 2.5 years ago the shop was finished and I pushed it into the corner where it sits today. I looked at it a couple times here and there, but i had other classic cars I had prioretys with. this car isnt really a rush to me because my family is a car family. the 4 of us will never fit in this car. so its just a spare classic car to me. a cool one...but a spare.

I started this post because I am dedicated to fix it before the new year. ( unless its a head gasket...then I will just let it sit where it is for more time)

when the car ran, it sounded great, had a bunch of power and drove well. I will see if I can upload a vid of a brake stand I did with it before it died.

anyways...thats the story and I should add, the rad is green with coolant, so it hasn't froze

I still plan to work on this for the next week or so...but if it is something major like a head gasket or something, I will stop for now.

 

Fresh gas sprayed in and it runs. Injectors pulse. You’ve got fuel pressure. How many years ago did you say the fuel pump was changed ....along with the gas??? Sounds like bad gas!
Now, about the water in your oil..........

 

I changed the fuel pump maybe 6 months ago. and yes, it sure does look like water....smelled like gas, so I am hopeful.

 

If you spray Brake Kleen into the intake or PCV and the car starts or attemps to start you can rule out everything else like spark, timing etc...if the car has been sitting for a long time the injectors are mechanically stuck closed...you should do an injector balance test... rent an "injector pulser" from the parts store and see if fuel pressure drops when you pressurize the fuel rail...even try tapping on the injectors while cranking...suggested this to a member from the UK a while back whose C5 sat for a long time...tapped on them and got the pintle valve freed up and the car started...here is a good video...you can see how you follow a "diagnostic process"...not a good idea to be jumping around !!...grab a beer,chill out, and watch this video !!...it is a no start when hot but you can see how you follow a diagnostic process !!

 

So finally I had a second set of hands to crank the engine while I sprayed quick start in the engine. and it started for a second, but died right away.

Here is my thoughts on what has happened. The car sat outside for a couple years. ran when parked there ( by me) and then didnt want to start. I pulled it into the shop and it has sat undercover for 2 more years. thats when I tried working on it again and tried to start it. found out the fuel pump wasnt working and when I replaced it I found water in the tank. and the pump was risted. I think what happened is water cascaded down the rear window from rain and seaped into the tank. The tank looked mint, but just had water in it. Then during the times I tried to start it ( and the pump worked at the time) it pumped contaminated fuel/water into the engine. of course it wouldnt run ( water sinks fuel rises in tank) Thats how water got in the engine....fast forward to when I tried to start it at the beginning of this post, and I believe the injectors are probably stuck shut ( or rusted due to water being in the system) I have changed the oil, done a compression test on the coolant and its good, noid light works, wants to start with quick start...I think the injectors are plugged. any recomendations where to buy?

Thanks

 

only one place i use. john at fuel injector connection.

if u havnt already done so u need to flush that fuel system out.

drain and wipe out tank. new filter. backflush from rail to the filter. then put in new injectors. id flush the rail with smething pressurizes like carb clean.