93 40th anniversary coupe right rear speed bearing replacement
can anyone help me?

 

Folks in the C4 forum can probably help you as soon as a moderator moves this thread to that forum for you.

 

Welcome to the CF!

 

 

^^^ Agreed. Let us know exactly what kind of help you need and I'm sure you can get that help here. This is a pretty common ailment on C4s, so a lot of us have done the replacement job (...a few times, LOL).

 

I recently did this job. It was a huge pain on my car because the bolts were corroded in place. It would have been impossible with the hubs on the car. We ended up turning it into a 2 person job, my father using map gas to heat the area while I cranked on it with a breaker bar.

Granted my car is a 92 with 140k on it, but it was not a cake walk for me. Others have said they were able to do it without removing the hubs, but I did it as part of a whole rear suspension bushing refresh so it wasnt as bad.

 

So - the rear hub job isn't that that bad...

1. Order a replacement hub (try Rock Auto) - and avoid going cheap...

2. Get the "unique" tools required - in your case that's a 36mm socket and a T-55 Torx bit.

3. I'd say that the first step is to break the 36mm nut on the axle free. It's torqued to over 200 ft Lb - so it's gonna take some force. Jack the car up - remove the rear wheel, and remove the cotter pin that goes through the nut, and then get that nut broken free. Setting the parking brake will typically keep the wheel from turning...

4. Remove the brake caliper and rotor (you do not need to disconnect the hydraulic line - you just need to move the caliper out of the way to get the rotor off).

5. Here's what's normally the toughest part. there are three bolts that hold the hub in place - you get at them from under the car. They have T-55 Torx heads on them, They aren't tightened horribly tight - but if they've been there a while - they might be rusty, and they are difficult to get to... I'd STRONGLY recommend spraying brake cleaner or some solvent into the Torx heads and getting the torx recess in the bolt head as clean as possible before trying to remove them - if you strip one - your job just got dramatically harder. Basically - do what you have to to remove those three bolts. I have had luck with a long extension and a 1/2" drive breaker bar....

6. Once you get those three bolts broken free - remove them - then remove the 36mm Nut, and the washer - and gently persuade the hub to come out.

7. Replacement is the reverse. Place the hub in the upright (engaging the axle spines as you go - a little grease here can't hurt), install the three bolts - tighten finger tight, install the big nut (and washer) and tighten finger tight - then tighten everything properly - reinstall the brake rotor and caliper - pop the wheel and tire back on and go have yourself an adult beverage (or two). I'd HIGHLY recommend anti-sieze on the the three bolts that hold the hub in place. The replacement hubs that are out there ain't as good as the OEM ones - and more than a couple of people have had to change them more than once... 30 sec or so here can save you hours later...

 

don't forget the snipe aka long pipe to extend the leverage on your 3/4 inch drive 36mm. that or an air impact gun.

 

Sounds like one of your new cylinders might possibly be defective and is allowing fluid to bypass internally.

I’ve had the most success bleeding clutch/brakes with a pnuematically operated vacuum bleeder.