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I should have my LT1 on the stand pretty soon for some upgrades. I have a Harbor Freight 4 leg stand that I’ve used for some GM V6 motors, the heaviest of which was a top heavy DOHC LQ1 (iron/alum). That engine was a nightmare to rotate on the stand and had a tendency to gravity swing the heads to the bottom when I tried to rotate. I was almost scared of it.
The LT1 is no doubt a bigger motor than that LQ1 but given it doesn’t have dohc heads with cam carriers bolted on top with 4 cams inside, it shouldn’t be so top heavy. Will I be able to roll it over easy with the bar?
I’ve considered upgrading to a stand with a crank to rotate but that’s a lot of added expense when I already have a more conventional stand that should work right.
I know to grease the tube of the stand. Any other tips to rotate it easily and controlled?
The motor is getting a cam/valve train/timing set/opti upgrade as well as some gaskets and a new oil pump.
If the stand is adjustable set the center point closer to the top of the block to distribute the weight better. I put it almost in line with the cam plug.
Yep - the LT1 is basically a Small Block Chevy at heart (technically - it's the Gen II SBC), and the HFS Stand will happily handle it - IF you get it installed correctly on the stand. If the engine wants to rotate - the placement on the stand is not right.... BUT ....
You have to decide IF you want it to be pretty neutral with just the block - with the Block, Crank Rods & Pistons, or with the heads installed - one position will not be neutral rotational balance for all stages of assembly.
One friendly piece of advice - IF you're planning to leave the motor on the stand for a while - you might want to cut a 2X4 such that it supports a bit of the weight of the snout end of the crank. That will take a lot of "moment" loading off some of the welds on that stand, and might just make you sleep a bit better...
Yep - the LT1 is basically a Small Block Chevy at heart (technically - it's the Gen II SBC), and the HFS Stand will happily handle it - IF you get it installed correctly on the stand.
Install it so that the CAM center line is pretty much aligned with teh pivot point on the stand and it will rotating fairly neutrally loaded, short block or stripped.
Heads are staying on, I did those years ago, LE ported stock castings. No reason to take them off now. Finally getting a cam in it to take full advantage! It’s nearly ready to come out, the ZF is already on the workbench and all that remains is the bell housing, clutch, flywheel and 2 bolts for the motor mounts.... and the hardest part, finding the time. Also have a HappyHooker, anyone use one? Believe the loop points forward but not certain. Do I need to use longer bolts? And yes, I’m apprehensive about 4 dinky fuel rail bolts with that load, well not so much the bolts but more the aluminum threads. Haven’t heard of any failures though.
I'd be nervous about that too. I typically use a chain and bolt diagonally across the engine to two beefy points. Then position the hook on the chain, so that the engine is balanced.
I wouldnt use the fuel rail threads, use the heads or poss intake.
I have an old 3 legger handles a BB or LT5 fine. Feel strange like you said its plenty safe.
SBC on it now rotates fine. L82 up for grabs btw
Well the only way the HappyHooker works on the LT1 is through the threads in the intake meant to hold down the fuel rail. I’ve seen lots of pics of it in use and haven’t seen a failure (I know that doesn’t prove it can’t happen). Is it much different than a carb plate? I normally use a load leveler when pulling a motor especially if the trans is coming with it, but the HH just seems easier and the ZF is already out, I can pluck the motor out nice and level. That said, backup chain without slack... you bet!
I will likely find some longer bolts and washers vs using the fuel rail bolts. I’ve been debating with myself whether grade 5 or 8 would be best, but came to the conclusion that a ~700# engine weight spread over 4 bolts won’t be very stressful for the fasteners.
I’ll be doing this is the spring, subscribing for future reference! I’ve read a bunch about the happy hooker and while many are apprehensive I’ve seen no failures.
It’s out and on the stand. I needed to drive the ball stud out to get the bellhousing off, I just couldn’t work the fork off the release bearing with the ball stud still threaded in.
I did get longer bolts and used the happy hooker... I used a safety chain as well for backup but that never came into play, at no point did things feel unsafe or risky. I’ll admit I employed my wife’s help, she operated the hydraulic ram on the crane while I ensured everything was coming out free and clear.
I was able to install the adapter for the engine stand really close to the cam centerline and I also really greased the engine stand very well. I was easily able to rotate the engine about 25* either direction.
Anyone have a way to prevent the fuel lines from puking gas when they are not connected to the rail? I loosened the gas cap and that stopped it, but was hoping for a more sealed up solution... I heat with propane in the garage.
Engine stand for LT1
