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Hey if you just want to try some different plugs you may give the AC Delco R44LTS's a try. They're the non-platinum delco plug for the LT1. Costs $11 instead of $50+ and they should be in stock rather than a special order. I'm running these plugs right now with much success.
Have you worked through the action table for DTC 300 (page 6-450)? Step 3 (for multi cyclinder misfires) addresses several systems that were removed/reinstalled when you put in a HOT cam.
Re: HELP - Closed loop cutout/stubbling (silver & red CE)
All I have is Autotap to record logs.
Have you worked through the action table for DTC 300 (page 6-450)? Step 3 (for multi cyclinder misfires) addresses several systems that were removed/reinstalled when you put in a HOT cam.
I wish I could follow the book, in particular checking the PCM ground. I cannot find the section nor the wiring diagram for that. It is sometimes very difficult to find things in that book. The PCM ground is about the only thing I have not done because I can't find the freaking section.
With the Ed Wright PCM no DTCs are being set now.
My mechanic wants to flash the PCM back to stock. I will do that this week. There are a number of guys here that run the stock program with the hotcam and with the LT4. They seem to run fine that way.
Can you find a friend or forum member locally & plug in his PCM in place of yours to save on the re-flash? I would say the car should run fine in closed loop with the stock PCM; open loop will be another story though. I don't remember (long post) if you had tried replacing the ignition control module. They can act up & several people have had problems with them, I know they (GM) are adamant about you re-applying that white heat absorbing compound on the backside of the module if it is removed or replaced.
Re: HELP - Closed loop cutout/stubbling (superlund)
I don't mind having a stocker PCM. I have two anyway. I don't like my Ed Wright PCM because he locks it down and I keep finding things he did that I did not ask him to do.:mad
I just replaced my opti last weekend. I was having the cutout/ stumble before then it just died one day. As in a previous post on this thread I tried coil, coil wire, ICM, just about everything before the opti. Finally broke down
and did it. WOW what a difference. It won't take you as long as you think if you recently did your cam change. You'll fly through it. I was amazed on how fast I got the job done and was out racing that night!
I'm not saying its fun, but if it fixes your problem it'll be worth it! Goodluck!
My symptoms are bad idle and steady speed cutouts. Acceleration is fine. Was that how yours was?
Yep... at about 2800-3000 rpm cruising would cutout/miss bad. Wasn't very driveable at all. All happened after I did my head/cam swap. Car ran poorly
and searched at idle up and down now it idles great, lopey but smooth!
Re: HELP - Closed loop cutout/stubbling (James94LT1)
BTW how do you like your Flywheel /Clutch setup?
This clutch is the best feeling clutch I have ever had! It drives/shifts better than any car I have driven. The down side is it is noisey. Anytime you are below 3k rpm and you put some load on it will rattle. I would say most people would not want to deal with it for a daily driver. I am still waiting to take it to the track to see how it performs but I have to solve this idle/cutout problem first.
Thats cool, I've been tossing the idea around of going to that setup when I
need a new clutch. My car isn't my daily driver and my tranny is loud already.
Re: HELP - Closed loop cutout/stubbling (James94LT1)
Replaced the opti and no change.
Took it for about a 30 minute test drive and it appeared to be gone. Let it sit for about 45 minutes and went back out and it was there. Both times the coolant temp reached 185. Sure seems like it is something to do with tuning, learn mode, and/or heat saturation.
My next thought is to get LT1 Edit and flash to stock once I get my spare PCM. The Ed Wright cannot be flashed back to stock. Once Ed Wright gets a hold of your PCM, your PCM is married to him.
Can you find someone with a dyno locally, that also tunes using LT1 Edit or Tunercat? I would think that you coupled with a tuner on a dyno for a couple hours could find the problem & get it fixed. Have you emailed your scan logs to Bryan over at pcmforless? If I remember correctly you had him tune one PCM?
BTW I've also got the Spec stage-2 clutch & 13 Lb Fidanza flywheel, got it thru Caroilina Clutch, noisy as heck below 3 grand, but works & feels perfectly normal when pulling away from a dead stop & holds just fine on my car @ 420 flywheel HP. I'm very happy with it.