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I have an oil leak coming from the back of my intake manifold and am getting ready to fix it. Is there a specific gasket thats I should use or should I stick with the oem? Also, what else will I need to pick up? Sorry if its a stupid question but I have never done this before and dont want to have to stop in the middle and run to the parts store...
I would just order the OEM gasket cause you don't want to take a chance on a cheap gasket and have to do it again when it blows. A little advice, order the gasket and wait for it to come in before you tear anything down. I made the mistake of ordering and then tearing down before it was in for time reasons and the wrong one came in, was without a car for 4 extra days waiting for the right one.
Vic'89 is right, the Fel Pro inake gasket set for your Vette is the way to go.
It has all the top end gaskets required; it would be a good idea to pick up a tube of Black RTV and some carb cleaner for the job too. That way you will have enough RTV to seal around the intake to heads water passages as well as develope the seals on the front and rear engine block lands.
You will also need some Permatex gasket sealer for the intake base bolt threads, after you've chased them with a die.
This would be a good time to do the TB coolant bypass too, so you never again have to deal with the coolant lines to/from the TB. So, pick up a piece of molded 5/8" heater hose with a 180 deg bend, two hose clamps and a mathing union along with two vacuum nipples to seal the two coolant fittings on the TB.
Don't use the gaskets supplied for the block rails front and back. Clean them well and use a good thick bead of silicone sealer. Make sure it is the type that is oil proof. It will say right on package. Put the manifold in place with the intake gaskets on the heads and check how much space there is between the manifold and the block. Make your bead of sealant at least this thick. Don't worry, you can't put too much. When you torque down the manifold it should squeeze out some sealer. Don't wipe it off. You want a bead outside and inside the block. Too little is a waste as you'll have to pull the manifold off and start again. Temporarily put a couple of studs in the holes in the block where the manifold bolts go and you can slide the manifold down them and right into place.
On that EGR system note, locate the EGR Temp Sensor connector (in the Grn wire) behind the dist, cut the wire and splice in an extension to bring that pulg up to the right of the dist. Later if you need to service the EGR Temp Sensor you'll be able to easily access the connector.
There is another tech tip that recommends that you use a punch on the front and rear (block and intake. This will give the sealant something to grab when it dries. :cheers: