Hello,

I am thinking of going to header on my 96 6spd. I know this must have been covered a million times but I am not able to find it. Can someone send me the link or explain how you get rid of the pipe that connects the headers together and the back of the manifold? Is there anything you have to do to computer? Do most headers come with O2 sensors?

Thank you

 

I have a '96 6spd as well, and I'm considering headers also, so I will be following this thread. I seriously doubt that the 4 O2 sensors come with headers... I just purchased 4 OEM O2's online for $125 ish if I remember right, and I was just going to replace them anyway as they are 24 years old, and the guy who tuned my ECM strongly recommends replacing all 4 at this age. I bet headers will be a challenging install on this car!!

 

Headers don't come with O2 sensors. You have 4 on 96. I do recommend replacing due to age, but technically you don't have to.

Reflashing the PCM for the headers is not required, the computer can adjust. If you were done with mods, then by all means if you want to optimize it, its ok to have it done.

I'm not sure what youre referring to about an H-pipe or how they mate to your resonators, an exhaust shop can fab up anything you like, just tell them to weld in an O2 bung in roughly the same location(s).

 

Call up stainless works, you can order the headers with no EGR fittings.

I would suggest a tune, as the aftermarket cats are not as efficient and on an OBD2 car will typically trigger a code for the post cat O2 sensors. You can have those eliminated in the tune to where they don’t trigger a SES.

 

I have found these on Amazon, price looks pretty good for stainless. Has the EGR and O2 bungs...
What do you think?

The collector is 2.75", is that correct?

 

I have those. If you buy them, expect to spend quite a bit more on the install.

They come piped for L98 cars emissions, so that will need cut off, and block plates installed, fairly easy, an exhaust shop can do it. They come with 3 bolt flanges vs clip ons to the rest of the factory system, so this again will need to be custom modified (any exhaust shop can do this). Then since you've deleted the EGR system, you'll need to retune the car to get rid of that system.

It is likely still cheaper than going with the nice ones like ARH or SW, but you also don't know what you'll end up with. Another member bought those and his shop utterly mangled the carap out of them.

 

I would stick to middle of the road ARH & SW are at the top end price-wise and Phab is at the other end(cost of exhaust customizing brings you into the middle of the road).
Some that I can think of are TPiS, Melrose(not sure if they still sell them, recently another member had his order canceled), Hooker and EM (exotic muscle)

 

Or spark plug non-foulers can be used.

 

I have had my ARH headers since 2014. I ordered the cats and X pipe along with the air tube bungs in the headers. I have my original four O2 sensors still installed. No tune was necessary. The car never threw a code with the headers.
The headers fit good but the cats get relocated further back and are very close to the fiberglass floor. I used Thermotec products to keep my floor happy.
No issues all these years, I have been happy with the ARH headers. They are well designed but expensive.
But I guess in most cases you get what you pay for.

 

I believe you are referring to the A.I.R. injection system, one of the emissions components. Yes, you "can" eliminate that, but it does require a computer tune to do so. If your going to tune the computer, you might as well tune out the EGR system if it's an LT1, and the two rearward O2 sensors (ones after the cats). You will need a block off plate for the EGR AIR system if you remove them. It's a plate and gasket set that covers the openings in the back of the intake manifold when you remove those items. Amazon has them. (or did when I did mine) As for headers, if it's mostly street driven, I'd go with the smaller 1-5/8" primary tubes (easier install). Headers are somewhat difficult to install, lot of stuff to pull out of the way, and a few bolts are quite difficult to access with normal hand tools, I would "highly" recommend some ARP 5/16" hex head 1" long header bolts (under $30) and you need to improvise a bit for the brackets that support the A/C and alternator on drivers side, and oil dipstick tube on passenger side. Removing plastic inner fenders is a must for access. Removing valve cover on passenger side is a big help on the last bolt closest to the firewall on passenger side. For computer tune, try "PCMforless.com" as a low cost basic mail order tune on a 1996. Can remove the things you want, tune, and get PCM back to you quickly.

 

Why? Might as well get it done cheaper by buying a good set and having more enjoyment and less grief.

Yeah. It was hilarious. I have that picture saved somewhere when I need a chuckle and a reminder of why I can't afford to pay less up front.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-headers.html

Post 85. You got to see it to believe it.

 

Still a good laugh looking at those pictures. Granted the exhaust shop was run by idiot meth junkies to reroute the tube like that. But never would have been in that place if he had bought a quality header in the first place.

 

Whoa!! How on earth did he get that home. Yikes!

 

​​​​​​@aklim ”Calling it a POS is an insult to ****.”