I know I'm not the only one to have dealt with this and I know I won't be the last, but I have the infamous Code 32. My light on the information display does not work so I do not have any idea when it came on. I recently hooked up my OBD 1 scanner and take a couple of data logs with it. I put them in an Excel chart and hopefully someone on the forum can interpret the data a little bit and give me an idea of which part of the EGR system is at fault. I also plan on following the factory service manual instructions on diagnosis, but have to wait a little until it warms up here in Ohio(no garage). The current drivability issues are the need to warm it up before going anywhere. If I just do a cold start and try to touch the gas it tries to stall out. While driving if I let off the gas it surges a little bit. Thanks for taking a look and offering any ideas!

 

A couple of questions. How long were you driving. Your coolant never got up to operating temp, and the system never went into closed loop. What temp thermostat do you have? What year is it?

 

As far as I know it is the stock 195 thermostat. The second sheet is after it idled for 5-10 minutes and is probably 20 seconds of driving down the street in a 25 MPH zone. It never made it to operating temperature but that is right after the point where it would not try to stall when I touched the gas pedal.

 

The other item that jumps out is park/neutral switch data. It shows your in drive with a vehicle speed of 0. Then later, you are driving with a vehicle speed,in 3rd gear, and it show you're in park/neutral. What year is this? I might want you to do a couple of tests to see how the computer reacts.It also look like there;s a lot of data that doesn't make sense. You might have a bad computer. How long has it been doing this?

 

Well if you want help you should at least provide your model year. EGR controls changed from year to year and we need to know which year diagram to look at. Other than that you data shows the ECM sees the EGR open all the time but the duty cycle swaps form 0% to 100% which I think means the command is changing but not what the EGR open sensor sees, it sees open all the time. Some years had a temperature sensor to monitor EGR flow but some years didn't. But who knows what you have because you don't provide even your model year.

Good luck.

 

The vehicle is a 1985, my apologies.

Its been acting like this since the fall but the first time I hooked it up to the scanner was this week. I have just warmed it up and driven it because when warm there are no issues. In the fall I was an idiot and arced the battery to one of the rails in the front. I had to replace the fuel pump, computer and MAF as a result. So it could still stem from that. When I get a chance I will record some data while it is warmed up. Thanks for your help

 

I'm here if you need me. Be patient, and we'll figure it out.

 

Okay a 1985 does have a "EGR diagnostic switch" which I assume is a temperature operated switch that closes when heated by the gas flow while the EGR is open. Should be easy to measure voltage accross it when open/cold and near zero volts when hot/closed - once you locate it. The EGR is solenoid operated and you should see a voltage drop across it when energized and no voltage drop across it when it's not energized by the ECM. I you verify good operation of both of those then you may have ECM issues.

Here's the AutoZone drawing I used:

1985 diagram

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Cardo0 and Mrvettenick for the help, I appreciate it. I hope to get to testing this weekend since the weather around here cleared up. Monday I went for a drive and recorded some more data, this time while warmed up. I heard the fans kick on prior to leaving and temperatures were in the 60s. It was mostly over curvy roads, except for the first sheet which was going to the stop sign at the top of my street and then the next stop sign 100 yards further. As always, this forum is a huge help and hopefully the next person who has similar issues stumbles upon this can use it to help solve his/her own CEL.

 

One quick test you can do, with the engine idling, see if you can manually open the egr valve, by pushing up on the diaphragm, be careful it gets hot, so try to do it right after a cold start up. If the engine runs rough or stalls, it indicates that it's not blocked. If the engine idle doesn't change, or changes very little, then it's probably blocked with carbon. Let's try that first. if we come up empty, then we'll look at the egr temp switch,

 

I have dealt with 32 many times, Best thing to do is remove the plenum top and take the egr out. Inspect. It is vey hard to get a good press on it where it is.
Since I have replaced egr with a new one(auto) and with a new egr temp sensor the code came back up. I cleaned the connectors and one week later it came back. I put a new connector for the solenoid and no more 32.
Good Luck

 

where did you find the EGR for yours? I've dont some looking around to find an EGR for an 85 automatic but it is proving to be difficult.

 

Standard EGV394

 

Probably going to be hard to find , they were available from Ecklers Corvette a while back.

 

Try ebay and Rock Auto. I know for a fact that there's at least one on ebay.

 

Today I started following the diagnostic procedure in the shop manual. The check engine light comes on during the 15 second idling period that it says to do, which then refers me to unplug the temperature switch. With it being an '85, I'll have to take the plenum off it seems. So I'll do that hopefully this weekend after it stops raining.

 

If you are speaking of the EGR temp switch you can unplug it at the single weatherpack connector around the EGR solenoid location.
Check and clean your egr connector with proper spray and check clean the egr temp sensor single wire. Mabey it is not getting a signal because of a bad connection.

 

Would this be the correct weatherpack connector? I disconnected it and started the car up per the FSM and it has an instant on CEL. Also still wants to stall out when touching the throttle. FSM advises to check CKT935 for a short but I have no idea what that is.

All in all, I'm still working on it and making some progress. I managed to diagnose a little bit today between the storms and the sudden drop from 70 to 30 degrees.

 

Duplicate

 

I finally got around to trying to solve the Code 32. First I switched to a different computer from an 85. It did not solve the issue at all so I moved to the next FSM suggestion which was a bad EGR temp sensor. I replaced that with a used one from a forum member who was local. I also replaced the EGR valve and the solenoid while I had everything apart. It did not fix the issue and after reconnecting the battery and restarting I still had code 32. When starting cold, the car idles fine. However if I touch the gas, it bucks and occasionally pops out the intake. If I let it run for 5 minutes I have no issues. My next question is about the solenoid. It appears as if there are one or two spots for vacuum hoses on the back, one in particular seems to have a clip of sorts. The front is connected with two hoses and a rubber L shaped connector for both. Am I missing a vacuum hose for the rear(last picture)? I'll attach the pictures below.

Im certainly tired of posting about this and fighting it but hopefully someone has some insight. Maybe it can help someone else. Thanks for taking the time to read this