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Finally got the transmission out. Took enough work. Anyway, I got all the bolts from the flywheel housing. The housing is lose so I can move it around but won't come out. Is it supposed to come out with the fork and release bearing or do I have to disconnect those from the housing. Thanks.
I just removed mine last week (clutch replacement too). I had to remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder, but not the hoses. After that, it came right off. Did you remove the flywheel cover from the lower half of the bellhousing?
You can not remove the bell housing if the clutch or flywheel is worn down too much. This puts the fork at an odd angle that will not allow the bellhousing to be removed without removing the clutch fork. You'll need to loosen the pivot ball for the clutch fork. You'll need a tiny 6mm-8mm allen wrench to remove the small quarter size washer looking bolt on the bell housing. Behind that you will find a larger bolt. Should be size 12mm allen wrench for that. Loosen that to loosen the clutch fork/pivot ball assembly.
The bell housing will come right off after that. I ran into the same issue on my 96. You won't run into this issue on other stick shift cars that I have experienced with in the past anyways. BTW - The above reasons for loosening the fork/pivot ball is listed in the Factory repair manual.
:D :cheers:
Pretty sure it was a 12mm but can't remember for 100%.
Sears carries big size allen wrenches. I bought a 17mm allen wrench there for the 6 spd tranny drain plug. Also check out the small privately own auto parts stores. They should everything you need unlike the big stores.
Ok, finally got it out. Didn't find an allen wrench litke that but I did have a sprk removal socket from my old CBR bike and the top part fit in perfectly. Here are a couple of pics of the clutch. Do you guys think I can clean up and reuse the flywheel.
1) buy a new flywheel per replacement instruction in factory repair manual. They state do not cut flywheel but replace. As you may already know, new flywheel price can range from $600 - $1200 bucks.
2) Replace flywheel with single plate flywheel , have it shaved to specs and install. You will get a loud rattling sound with sitting in neutral. I did not go with this choice myself because I did not want to hear it from others that my car sounds like a POS or about to break.
3) Skuff the flywheel to get rid of some of the glaze. This route is probably the safest. Not sure how well the clutch will grab. From my past experience with clutches, I would have my flywheel cut if it look like that. Which by the way mine infact looked just like it. That's a lot of heat glazing I see but it's not too bad. As long as the clutch rivets did not tear into the flywheel you should in theory be okay with deglazing it. Make sure you do it as evenly as possible. If not you may get clutch pulsating in takeoff.
4) Have the flywheel cut by some one experienced in cutting dual flywheels. That experience part is very important. I went this route. I have had no issues at all for 40,000 miles of daily driving, autocross events, drag race events.
Thanks. I think I like option 3 the best :D Not too crazy about buying a new flywheel right now. I'll just try that and see what happens. If anything, I'll just have another project next winter