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Next question is the pistons. I think the LT4 piston is a little different than the LT1. The machine shop says they have them. I just want to make sure I get the right ones. I have searched online for replacements and the results are endless but never really specify lt4 application. Any help on this would be great. Stock part # or a link. Cast is fine not building a race motor.
Grand Sport Registry has a breakdown of the difference between LT1 and LT4 including part numbers. Some numbers will be discontinued. If you go with original engine it really won't matter since it will need.overbored. Trying to match OEM piston's weight would help with balancing. If you go with a better virgin block you may just need 2 oem pistons.
You aint using a stock piston if you are boring the block .060...
Usually "stock" replacement pistons can be had in .005 increments, but only like +- .020.
i know when we build jeep motors we order something like Part # and the suffix is A, B, C, D, E, F etc... pistons and you have to look at the book to see what size that is.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Well I think your gonna have to use an LT1 piston if you want hypereutectic like it came with. Which should reduce the compression increase that will come from boring and maybe decking the motor. LT1 pistons has a little deeper valve pockets and thats it. Stock LT1 replacements from Silv-O-lite is part #1489HC in 20, 30, 40, 60 thou overbore. Mahle has part #224-3498 in 20, 30, 40 thou overbore. NAPA has some Sealed Power replacements #SEP WH597CP20 but only in 20 thou overbore.
Best value I think is the Silv-O-Lite.
BTW the Grand Sport registry gives a part #12551526 for the LT4 piston but that number leads to nowhere.
The machine shop said the block will need to go 60 over and the one really bad cylinder will be getting a sleeve.
Now I am waiting on the diagnoses for the heads.
Hi 60" that 1.5 mm, normally we would find such wear on motors in trucks or high mile oil burners, did they say why to the 60" max,if your sleeving the one cylinder, done that before even on the 928 porsche's, thats fine, seems if they have the pistons on site they want to sell you what they have, I would go check and have a look, after they have cleande the block, make sure the shop is using a mechanical sunnen or similar honeing machine, leave 3-4 ' for honing, do it right the first time. Sleeved many racing engines back to std, they even perform better as the cylinder is spun and the finished product is free of blemishes and denser than the block, although cuts easier, use the thickest sleeve possible on the motor, as thats the transfer of the combustion heat to your water system, good luck with the repair.
Well I think your gonna have to use an LT1 piston if you want hypereutectic like it came with. Which should reduce the compression increase that will come from boring and maybe decking the motor. LT1 pistons has a little deeper valve pockets and thats it. Stock LT1 replacements from Silv-O-lite is part #1489HC in 20, 30, 40, 60 thou overbore. Mahle has part #224-3498 in 20, 30, 40 thou overbore. NAPA has some Sealed Power replacements #SEP WH597CP20 but only in 20 thou overbore.
Best value I think is the Silv-O-Lite.
BTW the Grand Sport registry gives a part #12551526 for the LT4 piston but that number leads to nowhere.
take the time to balance the combustion chambers, and then keeping your std compression,with added cooler burning head and ease of intake and outlet, even port match the inlet and outlet, costs nothing. If your using oversize pistons, I would measure them against the std and then if necessary you can balance them, under the piston they will have sections where they are balanced, If I had the rods Id balance them also end to end, you'll have a real smooth running motor, that revs quicker and idles smother, as well as easier at high rpm, which isn't really necessary with a V8