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Hey everyone. I just bought a 1992 LT1, and I've been driving it a lot. I want to build more power and go faster. I want to get to low 11s quarter mile. Should I build my motor to get there, or call a place like golen and get an LT1 built? I want to keep my zf 6 speed so I dont really want to LS swap. What are your guys' experiences? I love reading about other people's builds!
With a 6 speed it's how well you can 60 ft aka the "Holeshot". If your budget allows Crate engine Golen , Texas Speed, 500 hp should get low 11s. Low 11's often turn in to 10s which moves towards 600hp. Rear suspension will need some work. Rippie suspension brackets. Heim joint rear links,
You'll need a 383 and an automatic to hit low 11"s. It is possible to go low 11's or even faster with a clutch, but not easy. I tried but kept breaking stuff.
My LS 500chp 84 does 11.80s @ 122+ with a 5 speed and 2.0 60fts. I guess low 11s are possible but would require 1.7 or better 60fts. Hoping to get there with some practice and a Tilton hydraulic flow control valve.
With a 6 speed it's how well you can 60 ft aka the "Holeshot". If your budget allows Crate engine Golen , Texas Speed, 500 hp should get low 11s. Low 11's often turn in to 10s which moves towards 600hp. Rear suspension will need some work. Rippie suspension brackets. Heim joint rear links,
thank you for that. I was leaning more towards a crate motor because the original engine has 101k miles on it and I don’t want to blow it up adding stuff to it. How much work and I’m looking at in the suspension?
My LS 500chp 84 does 11.80s @ 122+ with a 5 speed and 2.0 60fts. I guess low 11s are possible but would require 1.7 or better 60fts. Hoping to get there with some practice and a Tilton hydraulic flow control valve.
did you do all the work yourself or did you have a place do it for you? I’m no means a professional. How much work did the ls swap require?
Hey everyone. I just bought a 1992 LT1, and I've been driving it a lot. I want to build more power and go faster. I want to get to low 11s quarter mile. Should I build my motor to get there, or call a place like golen and get an LT1 built? I want to keep my zf 6 speed so I dont really want to LS swap. What are your guys' experiences? I love reading about other people's builds!
Search posts from "TPI421vette"; he's got a '92 6 speed and rows his own into the 9's -even at our high elevation track. He has done a solid rear axle swap.
Search posts from "TPI421vette"; he's got a '92 6 speed and rows his own into the 9's -even at our high elevation track. He has done a solid rear axle swap.
Doug Rippie Motorsports C4 camber and trailing arm brackets. 270 or so for both kits. Several venders sell heim joint links. Banaski is one of the more popular brands. Vansteel and DRM also sell kits.
did you do all the work yourself or did you have a place do it for you? I’m no means a professional. How much work did the ls swap require?
Negative, I bought it with the swap already done. It is done differently than most you will see here on the forum. Mine is done like this Corvette Central swap but with a 5spd TKO manual >>>>> https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...-c4-corvettes/ Instead of using the easily obtainable LS swap engine mount plates, the K-member was extended with welded in angle iron so the C5 engine pedestal mounts can be used.
There are several threads on this forum of guys doing LS swaps over the past year or so. It isn't all that hard to do the swap but functionality of all or your gauges, cruise control, a/c compressor...etc come into play.
My car is a hot rod. No A/C, no cruise, no stereo... It is built for kills.
Stock cube and bolt-ons I got down to 11.80's with the stick. With the 396ci I got it down to 11.0's but kept destroying rear end parts every 2nd or 3rd pass. Swapped in the Auto and got it to 10.82 and still break stuff but not as often. I do run steel 1/2 shafts and driveshaft with billet outer spindles. Once you start putting more power down and dropping your 60's down in the 1.5 range you need to start beefing up the rear. The new motor is 474rwhp/537rwtq, hoping for 10.50's in the fall.
You'll need a 383 and an automatic to hit low 11"s. It is possible to go low 11's or even faster with a clutch, but not easy. I tried but kept breaking stuff.
Do you want an 11's capable power level car or are you just wanting to get into the 11s? That is two different goals IMO.
If you really want to build a drag car, start from the rear and go forward. I would look at it this way, you are not capable of exploiting the full power of your car that you already have. I would suggest going to a 4.10 gear and then investing in rear suspension and tires that can stay hooked. Then do you have enough clutch to deliver it and joints that can contain it? This approach works in consideration of an engine later because a higher HP motor will most likely turn more RPMs and need more gear and traction anyway. I would venture to say a Bolt-on and Tuned LT1 would be able to hit 11's truly set up for drag racing without putting a lot of money into the engine.
If you want a car that does everything well plus runs 11's, you are probably going to need about 550hp on tap to overcome some of the traction limitations. To get to the low 11's you are looking in the 600-650hp range. That is where the 19 Z06 sat. It is not set up for stright line only performance though. Better suspension, tires, and weight transfer would drop that ET a good bit by getting out of the hole a lot harder.
What does the car run now? With a 6 speed, a LOT rides on the driver mod. If I where you I'd get competent with it as is and once that is accomplished then modify the car.
I can only think of 2 LT engines with a 6 speed that have done it. (low 11's) RichS and Rklessdriver. BIG difference with high 11's and low 11's. Rklessdriver did it with 480rwhp......
One other thing to consider, both are excellent drivers.
There have been some making much more hp, that cant get a 6 speed out of the 12's