bogus overheating
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: loveland ohio
bogus overheating
the car has 52000 miles on it ,yes i have change the t stat, the cap, the coolant clean the raditor off . both fan work and the a/c works
everything is stock factory 52000 miles 9 years old . here what is happening with the heater on, no heat just warm air then cold then warm never hot car temp run 200 to 230 up and down it did reach 260 once shut off and waited to cool i just bought this car and last owner only drove it for short trips had it service every 3000 miles by a chevorlet dealer( Terry Lee Chevorlet in cincinnati Ohio)do you think i have a bad head gasket bad water pump ????
everything is stock factory 52000 miles 9 years old . here what is happening with the heater on, no heat just warm air then cold then warm never hot car temp run 200 to 230 up and down it did reach 260 once shut off and waited to cool i just bought this car and last owner only drove it for short trips had it service every 3000 miles by a chevorlet dealer( Terry Lee Chevorlet in cincinnati Ohio)do you think i have a bad head gasket bad water pump ????
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
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From: San Pedro CA
Re: bogus overheating (richjeanne93vette)
I would be suprised if it was a head gasket. You would see white/grey smoke blowing out the tail pipe if it was that.
I still have to blame the t-stat.. was the t-stat GM or aftermarket? They can last a week or 5 years... who knows.
check the coolant hoses going to the heater. there is a chance you have a blockage or something like that. there could be a mess in the heater core itself.
age is a bigger culpret to problems than miles. usually, when a car is driven more, it is heat cycled more thoroughly and frequently, hence, the coolant and such don't get to just sit there and rot everything away.
you may require a full blown coolant cleaning. BG products has a pressurized coolant system cleaner that shops can buy. it uses low pressure water and cleaner to go through the entire coolant system. it also brings the goo into the unit and filters it. you may wanna check if your dealer has such a machine. I don't know if it is unique to BG or not...
both fans come on? could there be a bad temp sensor? relay? gee... that gets icky...
I still have to blame the t-stat.. was the t-stat GM or aftermarket? They can last a week or 5 years... who knows.
check the coolant hoses going to the heater. there is a chance you have a blockage or something like that. there could be a mess in the heater core itself.
age is a bigger culpret to problems than miles. usually, when a car is driven more, it is heat cycled more thoroughly and frequently, hence, the coolant and such don't get to just sit there and rot everything away.
you may require a full blown coolant cleaning. BG products has a pressurized coolant system cleaner that shops can buy. it uses low pressure water and cleaner to go through the entire coolant system. it also brings the goo into the unit and filters it. you may wanna check if your dealer has such a machine. I don't know if it is unique to BG or not...
both fans come on? could there be a bad temp sensor? relay? gee... that gets icky...
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
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Re: bogus overheating (richjeanne93vette)
Replace the temperature sensor, its not that expensive. Then check to see if the tstat is opening at the correct temperature. Make sure you burp the system again too.
Otherwise, its a blockage of some sort or a bad WP. If its a WP you must replace it immediately because itll barf all over your opti.
Otherwise, its a blockage of some sort or a bad WP. If its a WP you must replace it immediately because itll barf all over your opti.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,143
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From: San Diego CA
Re: bogus overheating (richjeanne93vette)
Sounds like it is definetly ripe for a complete coolant flush to start.
You should also consider pulling the radiator and cleaning it. There's a good TECH TIP on how to do it. Maybe do this first, it'll save throwing away a gallon of coolant.
Operating temps from 200-230 are normal. Under what circumstances did it hit 260 (unless you are racing this is not "normal")?
As for the heater, could be the restrictor in the heater supply is clogged (little plastic connector on the hose from the pump to the heater. Could be a clog in the heater coils. If you have electronic controls, it could be bad resistors on the vacuum controls.
You should also consider pulling the radiator and cleaning it. There's a good TECH TIP on how to do it. Maybe do this first, it'll save throwing away a gallon of coolant.
Operating temps from 200-230 are normal. Under what circumstances did it hit 260 (unless you are racing this is not "normal")?
As for the heater, could be the restrictor in the heater supply is clogged (little plastic connector on the hose from the pump to the heater. Could be a clog in the heater coils. If you have electronic controls, it could be bad resistors on the vacuum controls.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,842
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From: SANTA CRUZ CA
Re: bogus overheating (richjeanne93vette)
Do you have manual or electronic climate control? And, you will need to access DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) to understand your heating concerns.
From what you have written, your coolant temp is normal. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater core at all times. When the heater mode is activated, a door opens to expose the heater box to the passenger compartment. This is not hi-tech. There is nothing wrong with the items you have listed. This is just a problem of routing hot water through your heater tubes, and having warm air being distributed to the interior of your car. Your DTCs (codes 01 thru 06) may show faulty temp door motor circuitry, or sensor problems.
From what you have written, your coolant temp is normal. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater core at all times. When the heater mode is activated, a door opens to expose the heater box to the passenger compartment. This is not hi-tech. There is nothing wrong with the items you have listed. This is just a problem of routing hot water through your heater tubes, and having warm air being distributed to the interior of your car. Your DTCs (codes 01 thru 06) may show faulty temp door motor circuitry, or sensor problems.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,097
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From: Cincinnati Oh
Re: bogus overheating (vader86)
Replace the temperature sensor, its not that expensive. Then check to see if the tstat is opening at the correct temperature. Make sure you burp the system again too.
Otherwise, its a blockage of some sort or a bad WP. If its a WP you must replace it immediately because itll barf all over your opti.
Otherwise, its a blockage of some sort or a bad WP. If its a WP you must replace it immediately because itll barf all over your opti.
While those engine temps can be normal for a vette, I'd replace the water pump and sensors.
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Wichita Kansas
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Re: bogus overheating (richjeanne93vette)
I would have to agree with Bogus....
Thermostat... I would boil some water on the stove and drop it in there and make sure it is opened, if so check for blockage due to the fact you a never getting hot water into the heater core....
Good Luck
Thermostat... I would boil some water on the stove and drop it in there and make sure it is opened, if so check for blockage due to the fact you a never getting hot water into the heater core....
Good Luck
