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Hi new here. I am working on my daughter's 90 C4 Corvette. I replaced the Ignition Control Module, When trying to get the wires off and back on, the plastic clips have crumbled. I have all the wires back on except the three wires closest to the dash. When the clip crumbled, the wires crossed and I am not sure what order they go back on. Can anyone help me? Also, is there any problems with not having the plastic clips? Should I put electric tape around the connectors or is there replacement clips that I can buy? All three clips have broken on me. The heat must cause havoc on them.
This is a photo I found on the internet. Where the orange circle is, are the wires I need to figure out. IIRC I have a yellow, a tan and a tan/black wire. I found some other diagrams, but my colors aren't matching. The wires my have faded too. I can get better pics tonging at what I have going on.
Module ................................4 wire connector
Terminal E. White................ Terminal A
Terminal R. Purple/ White. Terminal B
Terminal B Tan / Black .......Terminal C
Ground. Black/Red. ........... Terminal D
Thanks. I saw those colors somewhere I think too. I am going to have to trace the wires back further, because those colors don’t seem to match up. Plus there are only three wires in that pack and then two wires in the pack below it. Then two on the pack on the other side. Maybe it will make more sense when I look at it in front of me tonight. I appreciate your help.
Ok. Traced the wires. There was a purple and white. It was so faded it looked tan and white. The black and red was hooked up to the bottom of the distributor. Then the other two I am not sure of. One is a light yellow color all the way, so I would think that would be the white wire just weathered a lot. The last wire I had was a brown or orange solid color not tan and black. Does this look correct?
I am trying to not have to mess with the timing if possible, that is why I chose not to buy a new distributor. I have a new cap and rotor. Thinking about changing the capacitor while I am at it. What do people think about the wires being exposed? Should I try to wrap them with electrical tape or something like that?
I am trying to not have to mess with the timing if possible, that is why I chose not to buy a new distributor. I have a new cap and rotor. Thinking about changing the capacitor while I am at it. What do people think about the wires being exposed? Should I try to wrap them with electrical tape or something like that?
I'd be very concerned with 'confirming' the pinning and then maybe a liquid tape or similar type insulation. You should be able to fabricate a grommet where the harness exits the distributor housing. If someone had a TPI/L98 distributor on the bench maybe they would do you a snapshot to confirm the pinning!
It's difficult to see but your module may have the terminals ID'd. This is from a '90 FSM
Thinking about changing the capacitor while I am at it. What do people think about the wires being exposed? Should I try to wrap them with electrical tape or something like that?[/QUOTE]
Why are you changing module? Capacitor doesn't fail very often. If you have DVOM, you could ohm test pickup coil for 800-1200 ohms. The wires need to be on the correct module terminals, A little di electric grease or silicone paste on terminal will protect terminals from moisture. Distributor harness(s) are available as service parts.
That looks like the correct diagram. I will double check tonight. I like the grommet and liquid tape idea. Now to just make sure I have everything plugged in correctly.
I am changing the module out because of the car dying when it gets warm and then not starting until it cools back down. I know it could be the injectors too, but wanted to start with the easiest first. Plus I wanted to just do a tune up at the same time. I also have a water pump that I am replacing. Just want it to be reliable for my daughter. It is her best play car but want her to be able to take when she wants without worry.
That looks like the correct diagram. I will double check tonight. I like the grommet and liquid tape idea. Now to just make sure I have everything plugged in correctly.
I am changing the module out because of the car dying when it gets warm and then not starting until it cools back down. I know it could be the injectors too, but wanted to start with the easiest first. Plus I wanted to just do a tune up at the same time. I also have a water pump that I am replacing. Just want it to be reliable for my daughter. It is her best play car but want her to be able to take when she wants without worry.
You'd have to remove the distributor but I'd seriously consider a 'pole piece/pick-up coil', considering the conditions you mention. Inspect the 2 wires to the pole piece - is there any corrosion on those 2 terminals?
There really isn’t any corrosion on any of the connectors. The plastic was all in place until I had to remove the wires and then the crumbled. I just to figure out if I have the wires in the correct location. I traced the wires back quite a ways and still not seeing the tan and black. Looks orange if anything to me.
It's not germain to the OP's question, but this diagram puzzles me. There's no signal path from the pick-up coil to the primary of the ignition coil! This diagram is much different than the ICM diagram in my '84 FSM.
To the OP: I'd like to suggest heat shrink sleeving on those exposed terminals on your ICM.
It's not germain to the OP's question, but this diagram puzzles me. There's no signal path from the pick-up coil to the primary of the ignition coil! This diagram is much different than the ICM diagram in my '84 FSM.
To the OP: I'd like to suggest heat shrink sleeving on those exposed terminals on your ICM.
After looking a little closer tonight, I did find a black tracer on the one wire, so I am pretty positive it is wired up correctly. I appreciate any and all help.
Ignition Control Module Wiring
