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I've had a small trans fluid leak for awhile (just a few dime/nickel sized drops), but now I have a bigger one (about 4"-5") circle. I examined underneath and the leak is coming from where the driveshaft yoke goes into the transmission. I'm assuming the seal just needs to be replaced, right? :confused:
Is this something I can do myself? Aside from scribing the alignment of the driveshaft before I pull it are there any other hidden surprises, like things jumping out of place when I pull it? Or springs, bushings, bearings, etc. popping out of the rear end. I really would like to do this myself because book time is 3.5 hours :crazy:
Also, I noticed that I've always driven to work with cruise at 78mph and RPM's at 2200. This morning I was cruising at 78mph but RPM's were at 2450. Any ideas, this is the same route of been driving for the last 10 months and this is the first time this did this. The only thing I did was put a pint of Slick50 tranny treatment in because the fluid was low. Would this cause that?
You're on the right track. Mark the driveshaft as you said ......... the driveshaft is kinda hard to get out of the car though. The beam is in the way. I didn't see whether you have a manual or automatic trans (mine's an auto) but on an auto the shaft will come out if you slightly massage the floor pan where the two peices are welded together. I used a BIG hammer to flatten it and that gave clearance for the shaft to come out. The exhaust may give you a little clearance trouble also especially when you pull the seal. I wish you could do the bushing as well but that would require removing the beam and may even require you to drop the exhaust. It would allow you the remove the extension housing (again assuming an auto) ........
I don't like putting stuff in my trans like Slick 50. I just want trans fluid in there. No additives not in my engine oil or anyplace else. :seeya
Thanks for the tips Vettmech. Mine's an auto and I was planning on pulling the exhaust to give me some more room to work. I don't have access to a lift, can I do this on 4 ramps or do I have to do it on jackstands to keep the tires free? I'm still timid about doing this kind of work because I've never done it before so any other info you can give me would be great.
Which bushing are you referring to, and is it very difficult. I'm thinking you mean the 'case extension bushing'?, but not sure. What's the best method to pull it and how do I press it back on?
To press the oil seal on I just use a socket or pipe right? For that bushing I wish I had Kent-Moore p/n: J38119, now that's a cool tool, too bad it cost $200. :crazy:
I'm assuming the seal just needs to be replaced, right?
Yes and no. If you just replace the seal, along with sanding the driveshaft yoke surface smooth ( to get rid of the ridge where the old seal wore into ) it will last a few months with very little leakage.
The tail housing bushing is the real cause of the seal leaking. To fix it permamently, you must remove the tail housing cover, take it to a trans shop and have a new bushing pressed in. It's not a hard job, you do have to remove the C channel torque tube to the tailhousing off, but it's a simple job.
To fix it permamently, you must remove the tail housing cover, take it to a trans shop and have a new bushing pressed in. It's not a hard job, you do have to remove the C channel torque tube to the tailhousing off, but it's a simple job.
Ok, I got the seal and bushing. (Finally some inexpensive parts $2 and $5 :D ).
I think I got the seal part figured out, but, could you give me a detailed procedure for the bushing part? Thanks.
Please help me guys, I'm wanna pull this on Friday. Also, I need to have the rear wheels off the ground right? Not on ramps? What is the C Channel Torque Tube and how does it come off?
I did this job last year and it isn't that bad. The hard part is you are flat on your back....yes...get all 4 tires off the ground....you need room to work and the exhaust is not heavy... but bulky. shoot me an email and i'll give you a step by step..including the torque tube.