What order to do performance mods
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
What order to do performance mods
Does it matter what order I do performance mods in? I would like to achieve around 400 RWHP eventually, something that can hang with the 5.0 mustang. Some of the things on my list are
Brakes
Coilovers
Long Tube Headers
Camshaft
1.6 Roller Rockers
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
Maybe Gears? I have a M6 1994, what ratio do you suggest?
What points do I need a tune
With this list is there any order in which I need to do them? I know the Roller Rockers and Cam should be done at the same time, are there any other things I need to do at the same time?
If I decided to do a 383 stroker will it make any of these mods obsolete / no fit right?
Thanks for the help!
Brakes
Coilovers
Long Tube Headers
Camshaft
1.6 Roller Rockers
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
Maybe Gears? I have a M6 1994, what ratio do you suggest?
What points do I need a tune
With this list is there any order in which I need to do them? I know the Roller Rockers and Cam should be done at the same time, are there any other things I need to do at the same time?
If I decided to do a 383 stroker will it make any of these mods obsolete / no fit right?
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by Alejandro Guerrero; Jun 10, 2020 at 01:37 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,066
Likes: 1,722
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Can do suspension adjustments or brakes at any time. You can bypass the TB at any time.
I would do exhaust first as it does not require any tuning done. Gears next on a 94. I would suggest 4.10s in your D44 carrier. Speedo will need correction then.
Cam and RR at the same time, the camshaft change will force a new tune to be done, preferably on a dyno. It will run but not be optimized without the tune. If you go to 383 later you will need it tuned again to add more fuel most likely but that doesnt negate the other mods. You may however want to pick your cam with the thought that you will be going to 383 at the end, the tune is required either way.
If you were going to do anything to port the LT1 intake it would not require a tune by itself, but might be best to leave it until the cam and RR are done.
To get upwards of 400 at the wheels you will want heads changed, which should also be done with the cam change as it would all benefit from being tuned together.
I would do exhaust first as it does not require any tuning done. Gears next on a 94. I would suggest 4.10s in your D44 carrier. Speedo will need correction then.
Cam and RR at the same time, the camshaft change will force a new tune to be done, preferably on a dyno. It will run but not be optimized without the tune. If you go to 383 later you will need it tuned again to add more fuel most likely but that doesnt negate the other mods. You may however want to pick your cam with the thought that you will be going to 383 at the end, the tune is required either way.
If you were going to do anything to port the LT1 intake it would not require a tune by itself, but might be best to leave it until the cam and RR are done.
To get upwards of 400 at the wheels you will want heads changed, which should also be done with the cam change as it would all benefit from being tuned together.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
Thanks, for the quick reply. So far I have been doing things to get the car cosmetically and mechanically sound but don't know much about performance mods. What would I look for in the Cam to have it be ready for the 383? Also in my head going to a 383 stroker and upgrading the heads was the same thing. What's a good place to learn about the difference as I am having trouble finding information on it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
Gears biggest bang for the buck 3.7X -4.10.
trailing arms with spherical rod ends.
lightweight flywheel.
Get proficient at shifting. There alot of people who can manage a manual. Very few excel at it, it's about up and downshifting automatically without thinking.
That will leave the engine to do all at once, You may find you can hang pretty good with the stock LT1. Hot Cam kit has been a proven performer. LS swap is also an option.
trailing arms with spherical rod ends.
lightweight flywheel.
Get proficient at shifting. There alot of people who can manage a manual. Very few excel at it, it's about up and downshifting automatically without thinking.
That will leave the engine to do all at once, You may find you can hang pretty good with the stock LT1. Hot Cam kit has been a proven performer. LS swap is also an option.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,066
Likes: 1,722
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Thanks, for the quick reply. So far I have been doing things to get the car cosmetically and mechanically sound but don't know much about performance mods. What would I look for in the Cam to have it be ready for the 383? Also in my head going to a 383 stroker and upgrading the heads was the same thing. What's a good place to learn about the difference as I am having trouble finding information on it.
Usually its best to do heads/cam at the same time just because everything has to come off for the cam change anyway, and the springs for the heads need to be able to handle the lift of the cam with the 1.6RR.
A cam for a 350 that has a lot of overlap and has a harder time idling would be much tamer in a 383. Basically you can handle a little more duration 050", and the idle will generally be smoother in the bigger engine so the car is more streetable. So you can go with a slightly larger cam with all other things equal in the larger engine. LT4 Hotcam would be fine in either engine size but would have a little less chop at idle in the 383, or you can go a few degrees larger in duration without penalty of dying at stop lights.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
383 is the bottom end, they bore out the engine cylinders, put in a crank with more stroke, thats all. The heads determine ultimately how much air gets in and out of the bottom end. For a 383 you would want something like 190-195cc heads, which is a good bit bigger than what you have now. AFR is the best but also pricey, Lloyd Elliot is another. Its a Gen 2 SBC.
Looking at the LT1 LE1
http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=51
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,330
Likes: 3,245
From: Hartford WI
First thing is to figure out the goal that you want and figure out a little more. Next figure out how much money you are willing to spend. That determines what you can do. Next, figure out what it will cost, triple that and you will know what it will finally cost after all the "while we are here", incidentals, etc. See if that corresponds to what you are willing to spend.
After that, we can discuss what is first.
After that, we can discuss what is first.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
I looked at the Lloyd Elliot heads as they seem to be about half the price as AFR. Should I get the cam package for an extra 300 or can I get something better suited to my wants?
Looking at the LT1 LE1
http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=51
Looking at the LT1 LE1
http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=51
Go with LE2...Lloyd recommended that it's worth the extra money, get the cam and have him port the intake. You should call Lloyd and ask the same question you asked here. He basically will sell you his service, custom grind a cam for your package and recommend (with part numbers??) all of the supporting items(1.6 RR, pushrods, etc)
BTW, welcome to "pandora box".....LOL
Last edited by vette196; Jun 11, 2020 at 11:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
I have some aluminium valve covers that I got when I bought the car but never got around to installing. While looking for the best brand of gasket for them it was said that while I am in there might as well do 1.6 RR and spring. Is there any harm to doing this before I do the cam which would probably be early next year? I would just hate to buy valve covers only to have to switch them again a few months later if it can be avoided.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,066
Likes: 1,722
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I have some aluminium valve covers that I got when I bought the car but never got around to installing. While looking for the best brand of gasket for them it was said that while I am in there might as well do 1.6 RR and spring. Is there any harm to doing this before I do the cam which would probably be early next year? I would just hate to buy valve covers only to have to switch them again a few months later if it can be avoided.
But when you buy the cam, it'll likely have a lift spec that you'll want to change the springs to be able to support safely. You'll want to make sure the valvetrain then is set up for longevity with that new cam's specs in mind.
Last edited by vader86; Sep 18, 2020 at 03:46 PM.