Problem with U-Joint Repair
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
Problem with U-Joint Repair
I am trying to replace the u-joints on my driver side half shaft and I got the end that connects to the third member to pop out no problem. However the end connected to the wheel seems to be rust welded into it and I can not for the life of me get it off. Any tips?
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,387
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I am trying to replace the u-joints on my driver side half shaft and I got the end that connects to the third member to pop out no problem. However the end connected to the wheel seems to be rust welded into it and I can not for the life of me get it off. Any tips?
get a hammer and a socket extension or something like that.
you could spray it with penetrating oil.
im guessing u dont have heat or u would have already used it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
I have already got all the straps off, I have tried hammering and prying it off. Will try heat tommorow.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
Take large nut at hub bearing off, slide half shaft out with stub. Once it's out it will be easier to deal with. PB blaster is widely available and does pretty good. There is a aircraft product thats better but harder to find.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
Oh believe me that thing has been soaked in PB plaster for 48 hours. I almost had to weld an extension on to one of the strap bolts to get it off but was able to find a extractor socket that worked. Will try what you suggest in the morning
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,688
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From: Saskatoon Sask.
Don't know if you have a large air compressor but if you do, use an air hammer. A couple of bursts should loosen it. If you can believe it, Harbor Freight has them on sale for 10.00.
Last edited by arbee; Jun 18, 2020 at 09:52 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: N.E. Ohio OH
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
ATF mixed with acetone. Or even some diesel fuel. Put in one of the old fashioned oil cans with the side squeeze handle. Either will penetrate quite well. Soaking with (or in diesel) is an old but effective technique. Since we have 2 diesel vehicles and a diesel tractor, I always have some around.
Or take it apart as everyone has said.
If you have that much rust there, other places in your driveline need attention.
Once you get them loose, I would stick the ends down in a container of diesel (or ATF and acetone) and let soak a couple days before trying to press the u-joints out.
Diesel is the cheaper of the 2 options.
Or take it apart as everyone has said.
If you have that much rust there, other places in your driveline need attention.
Once you get them loose, I would stick the ends down in a container of diesel (or ATF and acetone) and let soak a couple days before trying to press the u-joints out.
Diesel is the cheaper of the 2 options.
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Team Owner
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 399
Likes: 37
From: Kansas City Metro Area, Missouri
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
One end of camber rod needs to be loose. The knuckle will swing out and allow half shaft to drop out. The outer bolt will not require rear alignment. The inner bolt may because its sets the adjustment. If you take it loose mark it so it can be reinstalled in the same position.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,761
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From: Fairfax Virginia
If you heat up the joint carefully and then apply KROIL (or whatever) Penetrating Oil and let the heat draw it into the joint. It might even take 2 heat cycles but it will break loose.
You don't always need a torch as most have access to hair driers or Hot Air Guns and those will get the metal hot enough for the capillary action to occur with the penetrating oil. I have used a little handheld refillable Butane powered hot air tool and loosened up many really bad joints as long as it is heat first and then oil. A lot of people assume "using heat" means a Blow Torch. On my Corvette I am very hesitant to go near it with a Torch even for loosening a frozen nut. I have found that a good hot air gun will heat the metal up enough to get the capillary action working well and the joint freed.
Even with a Good Hot Air Gun you still want to have a Fire Extinguisher within reach in a hurry.
You don't always need a torch as most have access to hair driers or Hot Air Guns and those will get the metal hot enough for the capillary action to occur with the penetrating oil. I have used a little handheld refillable Butane powered hot air tool and loosened up many really bad joints as long as it is heat first and then oil. A lot of people assume "using heat" means a Blow Torch. On my Corvette I am very hesitant to go near it with a Torch even for loosening a frozen nut. I have found that a good hot air gun will heat the metal up enough to get the capillary action working well and the joint freed.
Even with a Good Hot Air Gun you still want to have a Fire Extinguisher within reach in a hurry.
