Offset for 18x10.5” wheel 1985





RE your laws, it's going to depend on how they measure "stick out past the guards." Also, you wrote "wheels," which would give some wiggle room to work with; but if the law is that sidewalls can't be outside the fenders then 11/315 is going to be really hard to make work. IME, with properly fitted 11/315s, the edge of the tread is about even with the top of the fender edge, but the middle of the sidewall where it bulges out on most tires will protrude past the fender edge. If you can't run 50mm offset due to inside interference, then the Grand Sport flares would be one obvious solution: GM tacked them on specifically to make the Grand Sport street legal in the US for the same reason.
PS - I know you can figure this stuff out on your own! I'm just trying to give you a head start on what to check for when you try those wheels and tires.
You got to ask what your car use is. If just street driving, they'd work, they'd just stick out,
But if you racing, some sanction bodies don't allow the tires to stick out past the fender. Scrutineers usually let the ZR1's 1/2" hangover scrape through inspection, because its close enough and not obvious.
But you add another inch or half inch further, the wheel probably wouldn't pass race inspection, unless you put on third party fendor flares.
I wouldn't get a 22 offset rim, if I were you. Just asking for trouble. You could always see if manufacturer would custom cut the rim offset down. Some will.
a 10.5" rim is narrower, but to realize that 1/2" narrower width, you'd need to also drop down to 305 tires.
Youre better off going for a higher offset and making it back up with Spacers if needed, if you cant find what you want in offset in 40 - 36 range..
I actually just found a picture of them on member hugavet’s car. I like the looks of them, but I’d want them in chrome and he has a post where he did say they stick out an inch in the rear so you guys were right about that. He used the 9.5”s in the front and they fit. I know the 9.5” would fit after seeing his but I know I’d be wanting the 315 tire always so I shouldn’t get the skinnier wheel.





I actually just found a picture of them on member hugavet’s car. I like the looks of them, but I’d want them in chrome and he has a post where he did say they stick out an inch in the rear so you guys were right about that. He used the 9.5”s in the front and they fit. I know the 9.5” would fit after seeing his but I know I’d be wanting the 315 tire always so I shouldn’t get the skinnier wheel.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.j...omCompare1=yes
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Finally, there's the matter of appearance. This is obviously a matter of opinion rather than fact. But that purple car as well as the green car you posted pics of both look ridiculous to me. They look like caricatures of C4s, like people used to airbrush on hot rodders' t-shirts in the 1970s. A C4 is a teeny and perfectly proportioned car in comparison to C5+ cars, and doesn't benefit from the ginormous diameters that modern cars need in order to hide their ponderous proportions. The following pic is my car (recently sold to a friend) on 18x11 wheels with 315/30/18 tires front and rear (25.6" diamter). Do you really think the purple and green cars look better with their oversize rear wheels/tires? I can guarantee you they won't perform nearly as well! 305/30/19s would have 1" taller wheels and 1/2" more tire diameter than mine. You be the judge.






Also the only tyres I know of that specify their size in overall diameter and not aspect ratio are racing slicks. That is because race car gearing is critical to perforce and often needs to be changed depending on the race track.
- Although, 305 is the correct ideal tire size for 10.5 rims, there are plenty of people who have fit 315s onto 10.5 rims fine. (no comment on whether that actually performs better or not)
- If I ever bought "new" after market rims for my C4, the size I would buy is most likely 18x10.5. So I feel 85CRVET was on the right track with is original target size. You just need a rim or a manufacturer that can provide the correct offset.
- one advantage of 10.5, is that its the largest legal size without penalty for many stock or slightly modified stock classes. C4 maz rim being 9.5", and rules usually allow for + or - 1".
- 18" rims allows for largest size of most third party HP brake kits (like Willwood 14".)
- If you use an 18" rim, and have excess height clearance, I'd argue that performance would be better achieved filling that gap by lowering the car, apposed to raising the tire.
- Many people do expensive differencial rear gear upgrades to get more torque for racing. Another way to accomplish the same thing more easily, is to use shorter tires than stock. That's more viable with 16, 17 or 18" rims, and near impossible with 19".
- I've been very happy with my Nitto tires. They still make many of the C4 sizes. There are a lot of threads suggesting that Nitto tires are just OK, and not a top contender tire, and Im certainly not a top contender driver. But the Nittos still work better than many, and a good enough option to fit needed rim sizes.
- One good reason to do otherwise, and consider a C5/C6 rim/tire size (18-19") for your C4, is the option to find race tire scrubs cheap.
- Lastly, If buying new, don't over look the possibility to have a manufacturer cut your rim to a custom offset size. Many will.
I haven't followed my own advice on rims. Im using mostly 17x11 w/ 325 or 17x9.5s w/ 285. But that's because I bought used, which cost justified my decision of compromise. And I tend to favor the nostalgia of classic stock over performance.
I believe Tires are the upgrade that makes the 2nd most largest impact of anything someone can upgrade. But the 1st is driver skill set. And it will be a long time before my driving will know the subtle difference between a half inch tire/rim difference.
When the tire makes the difference more than the driver/driving does, I'd suggest going even further. Put in the fender flairs, and 235-245s wide, and really make the tires count.
There have been many cases where 275s were on the winners circle's car, beating wider tires. Some have suggested that's because wider isn't always better. Narrower has less friction that can slow car and/or turning.
However, I've never believed the result were due to a narrower tire. I'm betting it was more driver skill, or driver more familiar with the balance of their car.
I've always been a fan of matched set on all 4 wheels. And why I tend to favor tire sizes based on what will fit the front.
However, I've never believed the result were due to a narrower tire. I'm betting it was more driver skill, or driver more familiar with the balance of their car.
OTOH, if you want a tire that's still very sticky (about a half step down from the Kumho) in the dry, but is also awesome in the rain and grips well down to about freezing temp (but still shouldn't be driven when it's colder, or in snow/ice), then two best choices by far are the Continental ExtremeContact Sport and Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. These are tires you can really street drive. And they are still really fast. In fact, many autocrossers use them for rainy or cool competitions.
If you need something that's truly all-season, the Cooper Zeon RS3-G1 is probably a good bet. It's a step or two down from the Conti and Michelin in dry or wet grip, but you can drive it in the coldest temps or in snow/ice (though it's not nearly as grippy there as a true snow tire).
So this gives you an idea of some choices depending on your intended use for the car.
I don't care about grip in winter. These tires will definitely lose grip, but you can always account for that in your driving. The problem is that the soft tread compound gets very stiff in cold weather and can crack if you move or flex the tire. If the car isn't moved at all, and you don't add or subtract air to them, then this isn't a danger. You just can't do anything that flexes the tread or sidewalls at all, or you risk damage. If you can do that, then go for it. The problem is that most people are like you: they don't drive much in below-freezing temps. I'm saying that you literally can't drive any. You can't even scoot the car a couple feet forward to back to get something out of the garage when it's below freezing. You also can't jack the car up, or inflate the tires, while they are that cold. Most people with tires like this have a second set of all-seasons or winter tires for those months, and put these in the basement until warm weather returns.
On the tread noise, you'll hear it. I had a pretty loud C4, and I could hear my Toyo R888s over everything else. It may not matter to you. I'm just saying that you'll hear them.
I don't care about grip in winter. These tires will definitely lose grip, but you can always account for that in your driving. The problem is that the soft tread compound gets very stiff in cold weather and can crack if you move or flex the tire. If the car isn't moved at all, and you don't add or subtract air to them, then this isn't a danger. You just can't do anything that flexes the tread or sidewalls at all, or you risk damage. If you can do that, then go for it. The problem is that most people are like you: they don't drive much in below-freezing temps. I'm saying that you literally can't drive any. You can't even scoot the car a couple feet forward to back to get something out of the garage when it's below freezing. You also can't jack the car up, or inflate the tires, while they are that cold. Most people with tires like this have a second set of all-seasons or winter tires for those months, and put these in the basement until warm weather returns.
On the tread noise, you'll hear it. I had a pretty loud C4, and I could hear my Toyo R888s over everything else. It may not matter to you. I'm just saying that you'll hear them.








