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Seems to me the best strategy is to take reasonable care and precautions with an acceptance of possible inherent variations in the system. Remember that this whole operation was precipitated by an out-of-the-box failure of a brand new LuK flywheel.
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How many times have you seen or heard of guys using air tools to remove or install their clutches instead of incrementally by hand and wonder why the clutch failed.
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How many times have you seen or heard of guys using air tools to remove or install their clutches instead of incrementally by hand and wonder why the clutch failed.
Don't forget the Bubba torque method- aka, "red-faced grunt." Torque wrenches are for sissies...(count me in).
Just like in those old movies- the good guys won in the final reel. The car is back together with the new/used (lately purchased) flywheel in place and the almost-new clutch parts with 3k miles reinstalled. Driving and shifting are as smooth as silk and as quiet as church on Monday.
Unknown just how close the bad flywheel was to catastrophic failure, but the last time I drove the car, 1 mile from home to the repair shop, I noticed that clutch takeup was barely off the floor. Bear in mind, of course, that a hydraulically actuated clutch system is typically self-adjusting. On my test drive today, with the repair completed, clutch operation is as expected and familiar. My conclusion was that, with the pull-type slave cylinder, the rear half of the flywheel was being pulled away from the front half- now verified with the removed wheel on the bench. The rear section moves in all directions, including away from the front, with the slightest pressure. That doughnut had to be n.g. right out of the box, just 3k miles ago, because the telltale rattling noise that finally led to the diagnosis was in evidence shortly after that new wheel was installed, although not persistently enough to identify.
I hope this is the end of this whole unfortunate incident.
Congrats. Good to hear you got it fixed. Sucks that a spank-new DMF was apparently defective out-of-the-box. Here's hoping you get a lot of trouble-free miles out of what you installed this time.
Just like in those old movies- the good guys won in the final reel. The car is back together with the new/used (lately purchased) flywheel in place and the almost-new clutch parts with 3k miles reinstalled. Driving and shifting are as smooth as silk and as quiet as church on Monday.
Unknown just how close the bad flywheel was to catastrophic failure, but the last time I drove the car, 1 mile from home to the repair shop, I noticed that clutch takeup was barely off the floor. Bear in mind, of course, that a hydraulically actuated clutch system is typically self-adjusting. On my test drive today, with the repair completed, clutch operation is as expected and familiar. My conclusion was that, with the pull-type slave cylinder, the rear half of the flywheel was being pulled away from the front half- now verified with the removed wheel on the bench. The rear section moves in all directions, including away from the front, with the slightest pressure. That doughnut had to be n.g. right out of the box, just 3k miles ago, because the telltale rattling noise that finally led to the diagnosis was in evidence shortly after that new wheel was installed, although not persistently enough to identify.
I hope this is the end of this whole unfortunate incident.
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That is some good news!
If I was you though, I would have to tear that DMF apart and see what happened to it!
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That is some good news!
If I was you though, I would have to tear that DMF apart and see what happened to it!
If I don't do that, the curiosity will dog me for a long time. I'm always interested in how things work. Bill Boudreau has mentioned that this wheel has something like 140 parts in it. In this case, they were not all playing from the same sheet music.
By way of a postmortem, this is what the insides of a dm flywheel look like. I expected to have a bunch of loose parts come rolling out, but nothing except two or three tiny coil springs were loose in there. Looking at the innards, I can't figure out how it was supposed to work or how it made the noises it made. BTW- I was able to duplicate the noises with the wheel on the bench before I took it apart. Anyone need a paperweight?
I honestly think I bought the last Luk DMF. I did a long research and called the vendor, they didn't know that existed, they looked it up and I got it.
