Draing old gas from filter neck side pipe.
My 1995 has been sat for a while (about 8 months) and after a battery full recharging engine had cranked an started so I've made 10 miles tour close to my home.
than car sat for few 2 days and now it crank but wouldn't not start.
So I would try first to drain the old gas in the tank (about 10 gallons)
so is for you a good idea to remove the fuel line at the filler neck and attach e hose there to syphon out the gas from that point?
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 5, 2020 at 04:53 AM.
I've just put an hose inside the filler neck and suck it a little to get syphon.
I've re-fill tank with about 5 gallons of fresh gas tough car still won't start.
There's no code except for c12 that should be a code that say that's everything is ok. AFAIR (I'd to take a look at the fsm)
I've put once again the battery on the bench to charge it one more time with battery charger in case it got loss energy due many time I've tried to start car.
I'm becoming to suspect for a failed fuel pump or or a pump relay ?there's a way to check it?
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 5, 2020 at 08:08 AM.





I've just put an hose inside the filler neck and suck it a little to get syphon.
I've re-fill tank with about 5 gallons of fresh gas tough car still won't start.
There's no code except for c12 that should be a code that say that's everything is ok. AFAIR (I'd to take a look at the fsm)
I've put once again the battery on the bench to charge it one more time with battery charger in case it got loss energy due many time I've tried to start car.
I'm becoming to suspect for a failed fuel pump or or a pump relay ?there's a way to check it?

So well if you check that there's no pressure at the srahder valve (on the top of the lt1 engine) close to the fuel rail can we affirm that fuel pump has been failed, it is correct?
the problem is that I've not a fuel gauge
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 5, 2020 at 08:27 AM.

So well if you check that there's no pressure at the srahder valve (on the top of the lt1 engine) close to the fuel rail can we affirm that fuel pump has been failed, it is correct?
the problem is that I've not a fuel gauge
if you hear the pump cycle then go to Test port at Fuel rail and put a Pressure gauge there or depress the valve stem (cover with rag) if all is well a Charge of gas will shoot out. if it does not with stem depressed and covered have key turned to run if no gas shoots out. Either fuel pump is not building Pressure or your Fuel Filter is Clogged.
if you hear the pump cycle then go to Test port at Fuel rail and put a Pressure gauge there or depress the valve stem (cover with rag) if all is well a Charge of gas will shoot out. if it does not with stem depressed and covered have key turned to run if no gas shoots out. Either fuel pump is not building Pressure or your Fuel Filter is Clogged.
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 5, 2020 at 12:14 PM.





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Before doing anything I strongly suggest you keep a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy when working with any fuel connections. Do Not use a Shop vacuum if there is any remaining smell or gasoline fumes.
When I removed the gasoline from my C4 I simply removed the Gas fill cover panel and then removed the Fuel pump module whole. Trying to siphon through the fuel pump sock might waste a lot of time and it will plug up. This will allow you to really clean out the junk on the bottom of your tank. I was amazed at how much junk there was at the bottom of my C4 fuel tank. I don't know how it got in there but it was a challenge to remove.
Drinking or ingesting gasoline is a BIG no-no as it can lead to cancer and other major problems. I have done it as well until I saw a guy demonstrating a "shaker siphon" setup at Corvettes@Carlisle. You simply stick one end of the hose into the fuel tank and shake the other end and the gasoline starts flowing. They worked so well I bought a set of different sizes.
On my 1988 after it sat I drained the fuel out with a siphon hose first. Then I wiped up as much of the gunk on the bottom of the tank as possible. Then I filled it with water and a bit of de-greaser let it sit for a couple hours and removed it with a shop vac. I did this a couple times and the tank looked like new after I was done. The I reassembled the system and ran a gallon of carburetor cleaner through the fuel lines up to the Fuel Filter (with the filter disconnected). Using a small vacuum hose I was able to clean out the extremities.
Another older vehicle I have is a VW Vanagon Syncro which is the four wheel drive version of the 1987 VW Vanagon. It has two separate fuel tanks that were left full. On this car it was easier to have the fuel pumps remove the fuel for me. I opened the line so it would not go into the injectors and connected a hose to a large fuel can. It might take a while but the Fuel pump will empty the tanks fairly quickly when it has an open line. I spent decades building VW engines for folks and when I had a chance I bought the VW because it has the "WASERBOXER" engine the four cylinder VW engine with water cooled cylinders. The radiator is on the front of the vehicle and the engine in the rear. Good solid German Engineering.





My days of drinking petrol (or even ingesting the fumes) are long over. I to have one of those jiggle hoses and do agree they work quite well. I also have a pump that you drive with an electric drill. A word of caution here, I use a brushless drill because commutator sparks are a no no around fuel vapor.
Before doing anything I strongly suggest you keep a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy when working with any fuel connections. Do Not use a Shop vacuum if there is any remaining smell or gasoline fumes.
When I removed the gasoline from my C4 I simply removed the Gas fill cover panel and then removed the Fuel pump module whole. Trying to siphon through the fuel pump sock might waste a lot of time and it will plug up. This will allow you to really clean out the junk on the bottom of your tank. I was amazed at how much junk there was at the bottom of my C4 fuel tank. I don't know how it got in there but it was a challenge to remove.
Drinking or ingesting gasoline is a BIG no-no as it can lead to cancer and other major problems. I have done it as well until I saw a guy demonstrating a "shaker siphon" setup at Corvettes@Carlisle. You simply stick one end of the hose into the fuel tank and shake the other end and the gasoline starts flowing. They worked so well I bought a set of different sizes.
On my 1988 after it sat I drained the fuel out with a siphon hose first. Then I wiped up as much of the gunk on the bottom of the tank as possible. Then I filled it with water and a bit of de-greaser let it sit for a couple hours and removed it with a shop vac. I did this a couple times and the tank looked like new after I was done. The I reassembled the system and ran a gallon of carburetor cleaner through the fuel lines up to the Fuel Filter (with the filter disconnected). Using a small vacuum hose I was able to clean out the extremities.
Another older vehicle I have is a VW Vanagon Syncro which is the four wheel drive version of the 1987 VW Vanagon. It has two separate fuel tanks that were left full. On this car it was easier to have the fuel pumps remove the fuel for me. I opened the line so it would not go into the injectors and connected a hose to a large fuel can. It might take a while but the Fuel pump will empty the tanks fairly quickly when it has an open line. I spent decades building VW engines for folks and when I had a chance I bought the VW because it has the "WASERBOXER" engine the four cylinder VW engine with water cooled cylinders. The radiator is on the front of the vehicle and the engine in the rear. Good solid German Engineering.
I try to see if I can get one from some online shop
about old fuel I've drained out it was pretty clear.
I don't find any junk inside. Think I've put hose almost on the bottom of the tank
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 6, 2020 at 03:53 AM.
My days of drinking petrol (or even ingesting the fumes) are long over. I to have one of those jiggle hoses and do agree they work quite well. I also have a pump that you drive with an electric drill. A word of caution here, I use a brushless drill because commutator sparks are a no no around fuel vapor.
So I've reinstalled battery that it looks like good. Green light from battery charger. Car cranks ok but won't start.
I've tried to hear some buzz noise from filler neck with friend of mine that move key in on position no start , tough isn't there any buzz noise. Also there's no fuel from shrader valve. I've tried to start car with starter spray and it immediately starts then immediately dies.
So fuel pump or pump relay would be the culprit am I right??
could be other parts can I check as pulstator, or something about injector?





So I've reinstalled battery that it looks like good. Green light from battery charger. Car cranks ok but won't start.
I've tried to hear some buzz noise from filler neck with friend of mine that move key in on position no start , tough isn't there any buzz noise. Also there's no fuel from shrader valve. I've tried to start car with starter spray and it immediately starts then immediately dies.
So fuel pump or pump relay would be the culprit am I right??
could be other parts can I check as pulstator, or something about injector?
I'm going to order some new part as fuel pump pulsator strainer, I've put them in cart, when I checkout I've read: manufacturer reccomend to replace the entire FUEL PUMP & HOUSING ASSEMBLY, to resolve troubles that can be not from fuel pump and save time.
The difference is about 60 bucks. Plus getting the entire fuel pump and housing assembly is possible to get a new generation delphy turbine pump instead the generator type.
Would ask you if this make sense for you?? Has anyone already replaced them pump and found bad wires or fuel floater inside?
Shift this on new topic cause this was the wrong place
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/4422234-fuel-pump-and-house-assembly.html
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 9, 2020 at 06:05 AM.





I'm going to order some new part as fuel pump pulsator strainer, I've put them in cart, when I checkout I've read: manufacturer reccomend to replace the entire FUEL PUMP & HOUSING ASSEMBLY, to resolve troubles that can be not from fuel pump and save time.
The difference is about 60 bucks. Plus getting the entire fuel pump and housing assembly is possible to get a new generation delphy turbine pump instead the generator type.
Would ask you if this make sense for you?? Has anyone already replaced them pump and found bad wires or fuel floater inside?
Shift this on new topic that is the wrong place
Edit: Sorry man I don’t speak Italian so hopefully you can understand my English ok. By the way I love you county. My wife and I spent a month or more there 20 years ago before we had kids. It’s one of out favorite countries and we hope to get back there some time soon.
Last edited by GregMartin; Jul 9, 2020 at 05:50 AM.
Edit: Sorry man I don’t speak Italian so hopefully you can understand my English ok. By the way I love you county. My wife and I spent a month or more there 20 years ago before we had kids. It’s one of out favorite countries and we hope to get back there some time soon.
Yes understand you english.
I've a lot of cousins in Australia in Melbourne so I speak english pretty fluently.
About fuel gauge. At the moment it's working well, though suppose that within a couple of months it can get some trouble (possible on an 20 years car)
At this point I need to buy anyway the whole assembly since the floater isn't available as a spare part
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 9, 2020 at 06:08 AM.






















