I purchased a c4 last summer. The vehicle sat all winter in the garage. This May the at times was inconsistent in starting. I would drive the vehicle around for an hour/two and park the vehicle back in the garage. When I tried to start the vehicle twenty/thirty minutes later it would not start. I would attach the battery maintainer to same until recharged.
I purchased a new battery (Optima Redtop), new spark plugs and wires, new distributor, water pump and starter which was wrapped to shield from the heat. The vehicle ran good for several weeks.
Yesterday it was very hot and I drove the vehicle for an hour/two and parked it back in the garage. I waited thirty minutes and vehicle would not start. Later that evening the vehicle started with no problem.
Would upgrading the starter to a mini high torque starter help. I would also wrap the starter to shield it from so much heat?

Any suggestions...

 

Moved you here to reach the right folks..

 

I bet the first thing the experts suggest is to check your fuel pressure and also see how long it holds pressure when shut off. Dan

 

Hi, I just bought a 1994 c4 corvette a few weeks ago and it has been sitting in a shed for a while, and we started it the other day, and it stalled out around a minute after it started and it won’t start back up. Any thoughts?

 

My question is when you say it will not start do you mean the engine does not turn over, or the engine cranks but does not fire?

When you turn the key to on but before you turn the key to the start position does the service engine soon come on?

 

First, it's best to tell us what year Corvette you have, since there were tons of changes year-to-year in the C4 generation. You did do that originally when you accidentally posted in the Forum Help section, so I'll fill in for people just tuning in. It's a 1996.

Second, we need to know more about the symptoms of the no-start, because lots of things can cause a no-start condition on a C4 Corvette. First, how is the SECURITY indicator? Does it change operation between the "starts and runs fine" and "refuses to start" condition? If it does, it could point to a bad key or bad lock cylinder or bad wiring between the harness and lock cylinder. Good way to rule it out as a cause is to use a multimeter to measure the resistance of your key, then buy a resistor online that closely matches this value and jam it into the VATS harness. It's a two-wire plug under the driver's knee panel with a thick orange sleeve and white wires going to it, very easy to get to. Disconnecting this and jamming a resistor in makes the car think the correct key is always inserted, thus removing VATS as a potential cause of the no-start condition.

That's just where I'd begin looking until I hear more detail as to the no-start scenario versus the start scenario.

Wouldn't fit the symptoms. Car starts and runs fine when left alone for a long period of time, but refuses to hot-start. Doesn't sound like fuel pressure to me assuming those are the only issues.

Start a new thread for yourself rather than trying to hijack someone else's.

 

Hold on the upgrades. You would need to confirm the starter is getting it's Voltage when you are cranking to point to the starter being the problem, verify the relay and signal to relay. Yes, hot no cranks usually means starter, but you already have a new one... which doesn't always mean a good one. You could take it back off and have it tested to confirm, most parts stores do this for free, before buying another.

 

As previously asked the year C4 , and if its a crank no start or a no crank condition would give more insight as to whats going on. if its a no crank when its hot logic would dictate the starter BUT in your post you stated that you had this problem so you changed the battery, starter, distributor, water pump etc... I'm curious why you would change all those parts right out of the gate. With that said, if the car has a no crank condition, do you hear the bendix drive clicking? you may have gotten a bad starter. Also posted was the possibility of a bad fuel pump. I have had my C4 run great for 1.5 hrs then die on me because of a bad fuel pump. One of the reasons fuel pumps were moved into the tank was to cool the fuel pump. With a failing fuel pump on a hot day the less it will pump and eventually the engine will stall. With it happening on hot days your under the hood temps can get real high actually heating your return fuel to the tank and speeding up the process. Don't go on my fuel pressure because my engine is not stock but my C4 runs about 58.5-58.7 psi at 175-190° engine temp. Sitting in traffic if I get up to 205-210° the pressure is down about 1 lb. I actually burnt up a fuel pump because of cooling fan problems.
But again more info would be helpful. I know that there were also different coils used on some distributors. If you use the wrong coil on the wrong distributor the coil will overheat and shut down.

 

My only thought was a leaking injector that would flood the engine for a hot start but drain away or evaporate for a long delay to restart. If not possible I am sorry I responded. Dan

 

Your car is pretty complicated for a novice.
but focus on what the problem is.
hot or warm, it doesn’t start.
1. Does the starter work but engine doesn’t start?
2. When you turn the key nothing happens?
3. What do you know about electricity, and do u have a meter and know how to use it?
4. How long has the gas been in the car?
5. When was the last time you think somebody changed the fuel filter?
6. Do you smell gas?
7. When you turn on the key, fo you hear the fuel pump for a few seconds?
8. Are there any lights staying on in the car?

 

Read the codes if you have them? No it is your first direction to take. Then list them on this site and we can help. What year is your car?