Hi guys

It looks like my vette calls for a fresh fuel pump so I'm going to order some new part as fuel pump pulsator strainer, I've put them in cart, when I checkout I've read: manufacturer reccomend to replace the entire FUEL PUMP & HOUSING ASSEMBLY, to resolve troubles that can be not from fuel pump and save time.
The difference is about 60 bucks. Plus getting the entire fuel pump and housing assembly is possible to get a new generation delphy turbine pump instead the generator type.

Would ask you if this make sense for you?? Has anyone already replaced them pump and found bad wires or fuel floater inside?

 

I strongly suggest you get an AC Delco pump; it's worth the expense to not have to do the job soon again.
Also get a new strainer sock that fits the bottom of the pump and a new gasket between the tank top and the FP assembly.

If you find bad wires they will need be repaired/replaced, though that's not very common.

If your fuel gauge works well the "floater" is most likely ok.

I have the new pump, strainer and gasket for my '89; now working up the energy to get started...

BTW, what year is your Vette; any pictures?

 

Well thanks will go with acdelco stock parts.

Yep car is 95 manual I've put a lot of photos here during this years. Let me search for some old topic

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/g/album/4539178

That s a link to my gallery

 

I along with a lot of other folks no longer use the GM "Pulsator" and will put a short section of Fuel Injected rated fuel hose that is designed for submersion in the gasoline. You clearly need to get a new sock to attach to it. The job of changing the pumps was very easy on my1988 C4. Be sure to use hose clamps on the short section of hose in between the in tank assembly and the pump.

The wiring harness should be fine as it is not exposed to anything under the rear cover plate. It is a great time to check your fuel level sending unit. Some people have found wear on the level sensor pivot so you might give it a good look.

I would also second the suggestion to stick with a AC Delco Fuel Pump. After a recent swap to a EFI system for a 1968 427 Convertible I found out about a material called "Hydra Mat" made by Holley. It replaces the sock on the end of the fuel pump and is able to pull fuel better than any sock I have seen yet. It is worth considering if you auto-cross your Corvette. The only negative is the price as it is costly but from my perspective I am glad to have it in my fuel tank. I had drained my tank before working on it and the Hydra Mat was able to pull the remaining fuel from the tank and supply a solid stream to the EFI system. This stuff really works well, I just wish it was more affordable.

 

https://www.racetronix.biz/k/c4x-fue...p255e/rfpk-012

What about something like this?

 

Thank you man

did you wash your tank too when empty or is not necessary?
also do you know if are available in some on line shop spare parts for fuel floating and level unit only?

 

These Are part i've just purchased. Should i stay safe for everything about fuel supply? Still there's Are pressure regulator and injector along The Line after fuel filter. That hope they will properly works. Obviously some parts as flasher doesn't match with this trouble.

 

You are most welcome my Friend,

Yes, I did wash out my fuel tank on my C4 when I replaced the fuel pump. It is not hard to do using a siphon to get rid of gasoline and then fill it with water and a little water based de-greaser. After filling it with water you could siphon it out or use a (wet or dry) shop vacuum like I did. It vacuumed up 99% of the junk on the bottom of my fuel tank and made it look new after cleaning it. I rinsed my tank a couple times before finishing it off. Please have a fire extinguisher handy and close when working near the fuel pump or any component on the fuel system.

I have never seen the parts by themselves for the Fuel pump assembly. I do know they are available complete. I would imagine a creative mechanic could fix something up for you if needed. It is likely that your bracket should be okay as most are. The damage frequently comes from inexperienced people changing their own fuel pumps. If your fuel level sensor is working then there is no reason to replace the entire assembly unless it is corroded or damaged in any way.

You might have to oil the bolts that hold the panel on over the fuel pump. They get frozen easily and will break off if rusted in place. I suggest you heat them up with a hair dryer (no Flames) or something and then oil them with a good penetrating oil. When I re-installed my fuel pump I used anti-seize on the bolts. Just in case you need to access this area again. The broken off bolts are a real pain and unless you remove them they might cause a leak at the top of the tank. Be very careful removing them... And do not use any kind of RTV (Silicone) around gasoline as it won't last, be sure to use a standard gasket maker to seal the metal plate on top of the fuel tank.

Be careful if you choose to use a different fuel pump as many draw more current than the circuit is able to handle. Be sure to verify that your fuel pump relay is working okay and the output voltage to the fuel pump is sufficient. On my 1988 C4 the Fuel Pump relay is common to several places in the car. I keep a spare in the Corvette as it is used on the fuel pump, the cooling fans and other important applications.

My 1988 C4 sat for a few months and when I tried driving it I learned that the fuel Supply line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter was partially blocked by rust in the lines. Gasoline with Ethanol (used here in the U.S.) has a bad habit of absorbing water and it settles at the lowest point (just forward of the right rear tire) and starts rusting from the inside. I measured the amount of fuel getting through in 5 seconds and then tried it with a length of the same size fuel line. I then measured it again and saw a substantial difference. I had to replace the fuel lines Both Supply and Return lines to fix my Corvette properly.

I am envious as driving a Corvette in Italy must be a a lot of fun (until you need fuel). That is a beautiful country you live in.

 

Thanks man

Yep i've got all OEM parts

 

I have a garden hose tapped with water close to me when work with fuel that think that is also better than fire extinguisher

 

Just one more thing
Isnt't there any trick to replace fuel pump??
something not immediately understandable?
or just unblock wire, unscrew old parts and go.

 

You don't spray water on a gasoline fire. I was taught to use a chemical fire extinguisher on Automotive Engine fires.

I keep a Big Household style Fire extinguisher nearby and a small Chrome HALON Fire extinguisher that lives in front of passengers seat in the Corvette. If you use a chemical type there is a huge mess of powder to clean up afterwards and it IS corrosive to Aluminum.
The HALON is a small foot long 5" diameter small extinguisher and it is able to extinguish a Gasoline fire. I keep these in my Corvettes just to be safer. HALON is a gas that smothers the flames and is safe on high tech electronics without any powder or corrosive. It can however smother a human so you have to be careful. It will blow away in a windy area but if I need it under the hood I have it. The HALON is my first level defense for a fire with a big Bottle type as a backup.

The fuel pump was very straight forward on my 1988 C4. The hardware to remove the gas cover is easy to get loose and remove. The you need to disconnect the wiring harness that connects the fuel pump and fuel level sending unit. Then remove the 8-10 bolts used to hold the gas tank cover on. You can remove the assembly after the bolts are out, the wires disconnected and the fuel hose removed. There was a short section of flexible hose that connects to the fuel supply line.
Getting the sending unit and parts out requires some wiggling of parts to get them out but you will get a assembly with the Pulsator, Fuel pump and Sock. Be careful not to bend it in any strange ways while pulling it out. It is somewhat fragile.

To re-install it just be sure to have good clean gasket surfaces with some gasket maker on them sealing the fuel tank. Like mentioned before use some anti-seize so they will come out easier next time. Be sure the assembly is not hanging up or not moving freely when re-installing the assembly. I have seen people bend parts working on their fuel pump.
Clean the wire harness' before re-connecting the fuel pump power harness. I use a chemical cleaner but a pencil eraser or fine wire brush might work. My favorite is something called DeOXiT and it literally wipes decades worth of corrosion with one wipe. I have used it on old flashlights and they get much brighter. I use it often on my Corvette as the C4's need special care to maintain their electrical systems working at their best.

 

yes thanks I will keep close to me an halon. I have one of them. Read something about gasoline fire extinguishing with water and it isn't a good idea.
Just don't get why did you mentioned about "gasket maker" on the top of the tank. Did you mean something like permatex form a gasket? To use above and under the gasket for a better gasket gripping on surface?

Or did you mean something like just a cleaner?

 

I would suggest using something like Permatex as a gasket material in between the paper gaskets and the metal surfaces. You want a good seal at the top of the fuel tank.

A lot of people think of RTV (silicone) is a "universal gasket maker" and it is not. This is why I made the suggestion to use a proper sealant.

My tank had a layer of water and junk floating in it at the very bottom of my fuel tank. I could not leave it in there so I cleaned the entire tank out of everything.

Halon Fire Extinguishers are the best for small contained fires like an engine compartment. The problem is it will drop down to the ground and dissipate quickly. A wet towel is a great backup as you can smother the flames.
The only negative thing about Halon is when it is ingested by a diesel engine it makes very very toxic fumes. Should not be a problem for you and that beautiful Corvette you have!

 

Ok well Thanks. I've read some topic here on forum about permatex form a gasket.
So some other guys say is better not to use it. In case you need to get the gasket out in the future this permatex could be a little bit tedious to remove. Or maybe not?
even FSM doesn't mention about it. What your experience about it??

Have you ever removed it after you applied on tank?

Also is not the gasket only a good seal?

 

Permatex is harder to remove but it seals really well. I use the soft Permatex that does not harden up. Alcohol helps clean it up. If you don't want to use Permatex you can always grease the gasket with regular grease on both sides. I use grease on intake manifold gaskets with great success, as long as all the bolts are there and working to uniformly seal the assembly to the tank.

I have seen people using "The Right Stuff" gasket maker on parts and then never being able to get them apart again. A great example of where you don't use "The Right Stuff" is on the China Wall at the rear of the intake manifold. The Right Stuff hardens and becomes hard to remove all by itself but when two parts are glued together then they are even harder to separate.

You just want a good solid seal on the top of your fuel tank or else it will leak as it sloshes around. You don't want gasoline fumes getting out either. I don't believe that a paper gasket alone on top of a fuel tank is the best way to seal it off. Nothing worse than raw gasoline dripping down on the warm mufflers in a Corvette. I might be a bit overboard but I know it is "sealed". Don't forget to use anti-seize on the bolts holding the assembly in the fuel tank. I have seen those bolts sheared off on a couple Corvettes.

Good Luck Christi@n!

 

racetronics has a nice gasket and ss bolt kit......highly reccommend you get it, make the installation a breeze

 

Almost everything on their site is OOS right now unfortunately